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1972 Montego With Wood Brothers Paint Scheme

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mtburger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2016 at 5:40AM
Yes Sir.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Torino Kid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-February-2016 at 6:56AM
Originally posted by mtburger mtburger wrote:

Yes Sir.


Ok I thought the car looked familiar? Did you the Purolator Staff Montego for sale as well....?
1973 Gran Torino Sport CJ 351

'Q' code 63R body
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2016 at 12:46PM
Ok.

Any military resources out there???

These pictures are of stenciled text from under the hood and of a decal on the rear window.

I have used several search engines and I get nothing that means anything in regards to any military unit, group, or type of identification.

To me they look to be what I would expect to see on a vehicle in use at some kind of military installation, but have no supporting info.

Anyone got a clue?

Thanks, Mike H.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2016 at 2:03PM
if those numbers were a military I.D., I would expect to find them in an external, visible location.
 
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
Randy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2016 at 2:17PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

if those numbers were a military I.D., I would expect to find them in an external, visible location.
 


They may have been.

I have no pictures of the car prior to it being painted.

Mike H.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-March-2016 at 12:24PM
Hey All.

I got my Marti report today.

Nothing special, ordered for stock.

White car, with full blue vinyl top, does not really sound very appealing.

Must have been kind of plain, maybe even ugly as I think about it, and it seams like a fairly odd combination.

A true product of the 70's, they loved them some vinyl tops back in the day.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2016 at 5:22AM
I got the car registered, but I noticed that the control arm bushings (and most of the rest of the rubber on the car) is completely destroyed, so I ordered all the rubber for the front end from a couple different ebay vendors.

Starting with the lowers, got them separated from the shells to replace with Energy Suspension graphite bushings.

They were so deteriorated that they came apart much easier than I had thought they would.

I will post up all the details, but I got everything for right at $100.00 including ball joint & tie rod boots.

I have been able to re-use all my hard parts and hardware so far.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 1:46PM
Ok, kind of back on track here, between parting out the 74 GTS, getting the fuel cell installed in the 95GT, and replacing the fender aprons on the 71 Sports Roof, I am just about ready to put the front end back together on this puppy.

I figure I saved about $300.00 rebuilding the control arms as apposed to just buying new ones, but it was a crap pile of work and the Energy Suspension bushings for the uppers were very difficult to install.

I actually had to open the centers on the steel insert up to 3/4 of an inch as they were too small by at least 1/32", and I started to deform them when I tried to press them on.

I have Bridgeport, and a small lathe, so I am very well equipped, but this was REAL nut cracker, most likely I would not do the uppers like that again, EVER!!!

Everything was blasted with aluminum oxide media, primed in where the bushings and ball joints go, then everything was pressed together, and rattle canned gloss black.

The lower ball joints were just starting to get loose, with the passenger side being the looser.

The lower control arms that were installed in my Montego GT had the ball joints replaced very recently with Moog pieces and had very little use on them, but the control arms were no where near as clean as the control arms that came on the car rust wise, so I used a press tool from Advanced Auto Parts, and swapped them after the LCA's were blasted and primed.

I posted a picture of my "Spray Booth" upstairs in the Barn showing my hi-tech parts hanger.

Like I mentioned previously, all the rubber parts were pretty cooked, but I was able to find everything that needed to be replace.

The UCA bumpers, were available from Auto Zone, for like $7.00 each, I had one of the lower bumpers NOS in the basement, got another one off ebay, then found them available for 1/3 the price on ebay.

I will go though the part numbers, and list all the prices for those interested in the bottom line, but everything including new semi metallic brake pads, and everything else seen, was right at $100.00.

I got the last batch of hardware in the parts cleaning tank, and with any luck I should be back on the ground by the weekend, maybe, I hope.

Thanks, Mike H.












































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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 2:38PM
Looks like great work.  I did the same to my car a few years ago made a bid difference.  You aren't using poly bushings for your strut rods are you? 
Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 2:57PM
looks great!
Still the same admin/moderator REGUL8R just needed a 2nd account for more picture space.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 3:27PM
Originally posted by 72FordGTS 72FordGTS wrote:

Looks like great work.  I did the same to my car a few years ago made a bid difference.  You aren't using poly bushings for your strut rods are you? 


Yes, those are Energy Suspension Poly bushings, give it to me, I can take it.  Tongue

I did not do much research, basically went what I have used before.

Thanks, Mike H.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 3:55PM
The problem with poly on the strut rod bushings is that they are so stiff it really limits the bar from moving up and down with the suspension as it's supposed to do.  This results in the steel rod flexing and bending more than it should and there have been instances where this causes the rod to break at the bushings due to fatigue.  The general consensus seems to be to stick with rubber or go to an aftermarket solution such as the ones that the Little shop makes (see the thread on the adjustable strut rods).
Vince

1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 4:37PM
Vince, thanks for responding.

After I posted, I searched around and found a couple threads on topic.

I have even posted in the "adjustable strut rod thread" related to my Montego GT project with adjustable strut rods, and of course, those have Moog rubber bushings installed.

I will most likely put it together as shown, although now I am thinking about it, so I'm not sure.

Updates to follow.

Thanks, Mike H.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-April-2016 at 3:17AM
Originally posted by 72FordGTS 72FordGTS wrote:

The problem with poly on the strut rod bushings is that they are so stiff it really limits the bar from moving up and down with the suspension as it's supposed to do.  This results in the steel rod flexing and bending more than it should and there have been instances where this causes the rod to break at the bushings due to fatigue.  The general consensus seems to be to stick with rubber or go to an aftermarket solution such as the ones that the Little shop makes (see the thread on the adjustable strut rods).
 
COMPLETELY concur, well said.
I have had a strut rod break, will NEVER use Poly on the strut rod again.
Have seen the poly get chewed up and spit out on my Ford trucks too on the strut/trail arm.
 
Still the same admin/moderator REGUL8R just needed a 2nd account for more picture space.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-April-2016 at 7:27AM
Hello All.

Agreed.

I have ordered new Moog replacements.

Thanks Guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris E Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2016 at 4:22AM

Mike just wanted to say that is one cool ride!!!! nice work also. Went to my first nascar race in daytona 1974 I was 10 years old seen David pearson win with that car!!! 

Chris E
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtburger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-May-2017 at 5:30AM
Hello All.

It has been a while and I have made a ton of progress on my ride.

First off, after reviewing the comments on the poly strut rod bushings, I assembled the lower control arms and strut bushings.

The control arm bolt was left lose so not to add friction to the movement of the parts.

I am actually surprised at how freely the arms move and how easily the strut arm pivots / articulates in the socket with the poly bushings in place.

I know this is in direct conflict with the experience of other members, but I see no way that the poly bushings are able to pinch and break off the end of a strut rod because of the increased rigidity of the poly bushings.

I have attached some pictures showing the movement of the lower control arm in a full range of motion with them installed, even though it is difficult to see.

The first picture is with the lower jacked up beyond the stock range of motion (no upper in place to limit it on the bump stop) and the second is all the way down, well past the normal limit of travel.

In both instances, the assembly was able to be moved by hand to the limit of travel in both directions with very little resistance.





The next order of business was to upgrade the coil springs.

After reading through the Coil Spring Thread and considering where I am eventually going to be, I ordered a set of Moog 8336 coils for the 74 up 460 cars.

The next set of pictures show a cut coil I was running on my 73 Montego GT fast back, the stock springs from this car and the new ones.

As you can see, these are at least 1/8 inch thicker wire than stock, and I also cut them a bit.











The 74 Gran Torino Sport I parted last winter had a brand new pair of rear springs in it, so I installed those at the same time because I had them and I thought it was a good idea.





After completely replacing every piece of rubber in the front suspension, installing new springs on all 4 corners, and putting on the 16 inch Cragar Soft 8's this is what I had for stance and ride height.





At this point I figured I was in good shape to enjoy the fruits of my labor then 20 minutes into my first real ride, the transmission started jumping out of gear.

Yup, as soon as it warmed up good it felt like a sprag was failing. The car had a very hard chatter when taking off or starting from a roll.

My ultimate plan is to transplant a low mile 460 mated to a tremec TKO and put that in it, but I am not going to disable this car and turn it into a project any more than it already is, so I looked through my inventory of stuff for a suitable replacement.

The car currently has a C4 Pan fill.

I have the C4 case fill that I know was a good unit as I took out of my Monarch when I convert if it to a stick.

I decided to tear it apart and do a quick rebuild on it so I could enjoy the rest of last summer in it.

I have never rebuilt an automatic transmission, but I looked online and read that a C4 is one of the easiest units to rebuild.

Ok, I'm in. I clean out my parts washing bin, fill it up with 5 gallons of Mineral Spirits and 5 gallons of Kerosene then pulled my core unit apart.

I am always looking for every extra bit of performance I can get, so I order a good rebuild kit with premium clutches, bands, Transgo shift improver, and a small Hughes performance 9 inch Street Rod convertor with like a 1500 stall, just a tad over stock.



Old Parts...



Clean Parts...





Assembled unit...



I get the unit all back together and I have to agree with the info I found online. The unit was reasonably easy to rebuild, it required no special tools, and the hardest part was all the hand scrubbing and washing of the case and components.

I blow out the lines, get the new unit installed, hook everything up, fill it up and go for a test ride.

Everything seams to be perfect, but after driving it a bit, I start to get the slightest of a 2-3 flare between shifts.

Back to the internet. I see that the C4 has a fairly common issue relating to "Calibration" between the valve body and servos.

After doing some additional research with the car parked, I find that a guaranteed fix for a C4 2-3 flare is to replace the servo as it is not able to hold 2nd gear long enough prior to shifting to 3rd.

I purchased a SONNAX C-4 C-Ratio Billet Servo part number K13259C, jack the car up again, install, refill with fluid, and test ride.

Perfect, shear freaking BLISS!!!

I have never had an item fix a problem as advertised like this in my life, I mean "Magic Wand" kind of results.

So now I am driving around in a well sorted piece, but I still need to make a few adjustments.

Back to craigslist and I find a brand new B&M UniMatic shifter. This is an old item bought decades ago, but they never even opened the hardware bags.

Bonus, the guy delivered it to my work for $50.00.







I installed the shifter, remember this is an "interim solution" until I get it swapped for the 460 / TKO combo.





Now, I am really starting to feel it but I am just missing 1 thing...

That set of crusty headers from earlier, well they are making some noise now.

These are old Mustang BlackJack or Cyclone headers, see the 2 "Adjustments" required for proper fit.

Dimple for bell housing clearance.



And, another one for motor mount clearance.



Here they are after being clearanced, blasted, and painted prior to final installation.







I put the car into storage last October and have started it a couple times over the winter. It is fresh and ready to go this summer and believe it to be well sorted out except for the interior.

More updates to follow as I will be getting it out next weekend.

Thanks All, Mike H.


Edited by mtburger - 17-May-2017 at 6:45AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote n2fordwagons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-May-2017 at 5:45AM
Awesome work!  Looking great!!
Jeff

76 Mercury Montego MX Villager w/ 460
79 Ford Thunderbird w/ T-tops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-May-2017 at 3:45PM
nice! Wink how many people have commented that its a 4 speed but don't realize there's no clutch pedal! LOL
JOHN
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74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-May-2017 at 4:07AM
Sonnax is good stuff, I've met the guy through my late trans builder
 
Congrats on the successful build, i have a couple C6's here to turn into 1 if you want to give it a shot
72 GT Ute
   
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