1976 Gran Torino ( coil / oil pres / temp ) conne |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: 10-July-2017 at 12:10PM |
Hello, I need the engine side connector for the coil / oil pressure / temperature sensor for my 1976 Gran Torino ( S&H ). The picture is what is there currently.
I used a ( seemingly correct ) wiring schematic to understand that the 3 wires going into that connector are from the ignition switch to the coil, the oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure sending unit, and the temperature gauge to the temperature sensor. I don't think this car was equipped with A/C so that wire is missing, if that's what the 4th hole was for Does anyone have advice on where I can acquire that connector / harness ? Thanks |
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GranTorinoSport
Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Unfortunately many of those under hood connectors are no longer available. The ones that you can buy are typically under dash ones like blower switch, brake light switch, dimmer and so on. Most of those are made by Standard Motor Products which has a pretty robust catalog with pictures. I doubt you'd find a suitable replacement but might be worth a look if you are desperate.
If the connector is destroyed your best bet is to get a good used one from a wrecking yard (or someone here with a parts car). It is noteworthy to add that I strongly recommend getting a tool for releasing the connector contacts from the housing to avoid damage to a new/ donor connector. I'll try and post a recommendation up later (I'm on a plane right now about to leave) but they can be found at places like NAPA etc. Edited by GranTorinoSport - 11-July-2017 at 4:54AM |
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Scott Eklund
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GranTorinoSport
Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Lisle 56500 tool. Ten bucks and available at amazon.
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Scott Eklund
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Thanks !
( not sure why I didn't get an e-mail about the responses ) I know what you mean about the delicacy of the connectors. I will have to order one of those. If anyone has a junk car and would be willing to sell that connector with the wires that go to the coil/oil/temp I'd be interested to hear a price. |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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i may have one i'll have to check....
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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I appreciate your checking very much @californiajohnny!
Did you happen to find one ? I can't seem to find a junkyard close to me that even has a Torino ! |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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I'm not home tonight, the 4dr parts car i have...someone cut the engine wiring 6" from the bulkhead, so it's gone!!! The other 2dr i have I'll check but don't want to disconnect anything yet until i get a chance to see if it runs? I can get one at that yard but haven't had time to go up there yet....
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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i found one! the harness that plugs onto the one in the pic with the coil connections too
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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i found that harness you asked about
PM'd you about it as well!!! |
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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There must be something wrong with my inbox or something because I'm not getting these notifications !
I PMd you back californiajohnny with my personal direct e-mail addy. Thanks ! |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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i got your PM i'll email you some pics...
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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This is what I'm working with ( I FINALLY was able to upload a video ), and need to get addressed next is to finish sorting out these next wires and the alternator.
https://youtu.be/YYRybooRvNU Advice is always appreciated. |
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californiajohnny
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on the alternator... if it had a flat rubber plug in it , it's probably considered a 1 wire alternator (it's jumped internally?) if it's a normal GM 10si alternator they are simple to wire up i have them on most of my vehicles i love em cause they are easy!! if it's a true 1 wire conversion then all you need is the large hot wire to make it work or so i'm told? it's internally regulated so you won't need your original regulator on the fender or core support
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Yes, it did have a flat rubber plug that was covering the 2 horizontal tabs on the side that you can see in the video.
Yes I believe that it is an internally regulated alternator. So the alternator is generating electricity because it is being spun by the belts, and that one wire carries the charge back to the battery ? My issue is .. the regulator .. I don't necessarily want to eliminate it, but I really need to understand how the wires for the regulator are tied in to the system currently, and what wires would need to be removed if the regulator was to be eliminated, and what wires need to remain to make the dash amp meter work ( I believe it IS an amp meter and not a voltage meter ) Is it better to just get the period correct style of alternator, and use the regulator that is there on the fender ? Would the wires just plug in and everything would work ? Is there a way to use the external regulator with those tabs that are under the rubber cap on the GM alternator, and avoid having to buy another one.( I really want the chrome alternator ). so many questions and possibilities .. Again, I appreciate all the information I can get ! |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7074ra/overview/year/1976/make/ford/model/gran-torino
Have a look at the 360 view for this alternator. This alternator has the 2 tab plug that seems to match the plug that is currently on my car. It is 2 tabs at 90 degrees to each other sort of like | -- if that makes sense. Would it be smarter to just buy this alternator and install with the factory regulator ? Or perhaps even a new regulator ? |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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So ... it's been a couple years since I last posted. I can't believe how quickly time flies. I've been distracted by projects that needed to be completed around the house.
The reason I'm reviving this thread is that I am still looking for the 3-wire harness that connects to that plug I show first in the video. It has the wires for the ignition coil, the oil pressure sensor, and the temperature sensor, I believe. Does anyone have one of these plugs with or without the wires ? Thanks |
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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There has been progress on this ! I received the connector I was hunting from a respected member of this forum ! Thanks Johnny ! I have cleaned it up and connected the coil wire and the oil pressure sending wire.
I'm still trying to sort out the story with the water temperature sender wire also as in the legitimate schematic I have it seems to show both a sender and a switch, and I don't quite have the entire understanding of this electrical circuit to know what should be there vs. what can be eliminated. I'm charging up the battery and putting the dash electrical back together, which I had to take apart to try and figure out why I wasn't getting enough voltage to my coil, as it turns out the wire going from the ignition to the firewall connector is ALUMINUM, naturally resisting the voltage. After introducing a step up connector from MSD, I have enough voltage at the coil to keep it running. |
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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3946 |
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Keep in mind that the wires to the senders is a pulsed power. Kind of freaked me out when I tested my temperature sender wire.
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squarethumps
Member Joined: 30-August-2015 Location: Hunker Pa Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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GUYS !!!! I had my analysis INCORRECT on this connector inside the engine bay !!! Well, it was mostly correct. Indeed there is a COIL wire ( Red with Light Green stripe ) and the OIL PRESSURE wire ( White with a Red stripe ) are there and they are correct. (Though I think that coil wire will come in to play later on when I am sorting out the tachometer .. there is another wire ( Red w/ Light Blue ) that goes nowhere and I think should do something with the coil / tach wire .. more on that later ) However, that THIRD wire - the Red w/ Yellow Hash - I somehow incorrectly identified that wire as the negative side of the Temperature gauge. ( Well I know how .. it's because I plugged in the dash cluster before I ever knew it was not original to the car and my testing results were obviously wonky ). In any case .. that connector does NOT contain the wire which goes to the temperature sending unit. There was another loose wire .. a Red w/ White stripe ( imagine that lol ) and when I connect it directly to ground .. BOOM the temperature gauge WORKS. You can follow the continuing adventures of this cluster swap here on this other thread : Reading the Electrical Schematic Now I just need to figure out what the Red w/ Yellow Hash wire is for. On the schematic it seems to be circuit 640 which seems to go to a low vacuum indicator and sensor and a carburetor emission control or sensor ? still investigating... I just needed to clarify that for anyone reading this post, as I don't like misinformation. Cheers. |
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