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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31-May-2015 at 9:47AM
OK, here's the situation....

Just replaced the rag joint and now the car will start and idle in park all day long, but as soon as you try to drop it into gear, it dies. ALSO IT WILL NOT START IN NEUTRAL (edited).

My initial thought is that the neutral start switch is out of adjustment, but that shouldn't kill the engine when you move the gear selector.

HELP!!

Thanks all......


Edited by TV 2M8O - 31-May-2015 at 11:14PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-May-2015 at 10:06AM
what position will it start in? this may sound stupid, but you didn't somehow run the ignition circuit that feeds power to the coil through the neutral switch instead of the solenoid circuit??? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-May-2015 at 11:28AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

what position will it start in? this may sound stupid, but you didn't somehow run the ignition circuit that feeds power to the coil through the neutral switch instead of the solenoid circuit??? 
 
Sounds like a possibility to me.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-May-2015 at 3:24PM
  I ran into something like this a while back when I was changing out ignition systems on my Ranchero, so hopefully it will be of some service. I once installed a Jacobs Mileage Master ignition and coil(Jacobs Ultra-coil), the Jacobs box quit working although I kept the coil but ran 12V straight to the + terminal of the coil and the - terminal signal was supplied by my Duraspark box. I could start it and let it run for 20 mins or so without an issue, but once I tried to put it in gear and back out of my warehouse it would die. I went back over all the wiring and found no noticeable issues(real head-scratcher for a few minutes), until I touched the Duraspark box, it was way too hot. The reason for the resistance wire was to limit the current to the coil, since I had ran direct 12V to the coil's + terminal it caused too much current through the Duraspark box, causing it to get hot & shut down. I removed the Jacobs coil and installed an MSD 2F coil wired with the resistance wire and kept the Duraspark module, no more issues(but have changed out this ignition since, still no issues Wink). Hope this helps. Todd 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-May-2015 at 11:11PM
OOPS, I meant to say it ONLY STARTS IN PARK... will not start in neutral. A friend of mine is having the issue and I think all he did was remove only the things necessary to swap out the rag joint and then button things back up, so there should have been no wiring changes...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-May-2015 at 11:37PM
 Sounds like the neutral safety switch is the culprit, since there were no wiring changes. Maybe something became dislodged when dealing with the intermediate shaft/firewall boot.
www.supermotors.net/22468
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No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 2:44AM
oh i thought it was on your car...with the column modification,been apart for ages,sand everywhere,wiring modifications,everything stripped down to the bare frame,etc. and here i thought you got it put back together and was ready to go to the paint shop ShockedShocked but i guess notCry
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90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 4:23AM
WE CAN WISH CAN'T WE??? LOL, maybe next week..............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 1:26PM
i'll be waiting...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2015 at 2:34PM
I've had problems with the dura-spark setup too. I was using the wrong dura-spark box and it would idle in park all day but as soon as I put it into any gear it would die. Changed out the dura-spark box and the problem went away. I still have no idea why that was. It doesn't make any sense to me. I know that part of the wiring harness way to well now and I still cant wrap my head around it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2015 at 12:28AM
Originally posted by Billy C Billy C wrote:

I've had problems with the dura-spark setup too. I was using the wrong dura-spark box and it would idle in park all day but as soon as I put it into any gear it would die. Changed out the dura-spark box and the problem went away. I still have no idea why that was. It doesn't make any sense to me. I know that part of the wiring harness way to well now and I still cant wrap my head around it.
 
Hopefully this reply isn't totally off-topic.
 BillyC,
 I do know Ford made several variations of the Duraspark ignition module, they were designated by the strain relief color(grommet color). Here is some more info:
 There is also a RED grommet module(California emission version) that allowed the ignition coil to be fed 12V in both "start" and "run" positions of the ignition switch, instead of using the resistance wire to reduce "run" voltage to the coil, supposedly had a more powerful spark(IIRC, also used a different coil design). These RED "boxes" were said to be a bit more electronically robust inside. If you were to substitute a BLUE grommet module in place of the RED module, the ignition would shut down(or burn up internally) due to the increased current that the BLUE module couldn't handle. The main issues with aftermarket Duraspark modules is their reliability and/or some features particular to their grommet color/module design may be omitted for cost reasons Confused.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2015 at 2:12PM
Somewhere on here there is a discussion about using HEI modules for a replacement for the duraspark module. Some aftermarket duraspark replacements are nothing more than a duraspark shell with a HEI module mounted inside using the shell as a heat-sink.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2015 at 3:21PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

Somewhere on here there is a discussion about using HEI modules for a replacement for the duraspark module. Some aftermarket duraspark replacements are nothing more than a duraspark shell with a HEI module mounted inside using the shell as a heat-sink.
 
This is basically what I ended up doing when my Crane HI-6 ignition box "sh*t the bed", I used a 5 terminal HEI module that has 5 degrees of start retard mounted in an aluminum heatsink, really helps in starting my BB when it's hot. Using the above along with a Ford TFI coil produces a "healthy" looking spark(jumps a 1/2" plug gap with ease) and I have less than $75 in the ignition system, no more MSD, Crane, Accel or etc aftermarket(read expensive) ignition systems for me.


Edited by aquartlow - 02-June-2015 at 3:21PM
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-June-2015 at 12:06PM
Turns out it was the ignition switch that had some how gotten knocked out of adjustment during the rag joint replacement.

THANKS ALL
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