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72 GTS 351C 4v OC Engine Rebuild

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Danno View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-July-2017 at 12:00PM


Used 1 3/4 inch thick closed cell foam to block off the space between evaporator and firewall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-July-2017 at 12:03PM


Wiring harness. Some folks might not like blue convoluted looming. I wanted something other than black though.

Getting close to hoisting engine back in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-July-2017 at 12:05PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-July-2017 at 1:09PM
Looks great Danno!
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-July-2017 at 8:05AM
Engine hoisted back in. Me and my son Mitch dropped it in. Getting close to finish line!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72GTS351CJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-July-2017 at 10:17AM
Danno, Looking good . When can we expect it to be running?
72GTS Clint Eastwood Special                                     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-July-2017 at 3:05PM
Clap nice!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-July-2017 at 7:26AM
C6 is back in. Then attached pax side header, up and in from below. Driver side, won't clear steering pump by a hair. Very close. I think I'll have to pull out front engine mount bolts and jack up about an inch. Then it should slide right up and in. Once it clears that, then it should be able to square up with exhaust ports. What do you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-July-2017 at 7:46AM
that's what i'd try first, jacking up the engine Wink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72GTS351CJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-July-2017 at 9:16AM
Either that or jack the car up a little higher. It should go
72GTS Clint Eastwood Special                                     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-August-2017 at 11:49AM
Jacking engine up just a tad was enough. Headers are on. Little difficult getting all of the bolts to thread right, but little by little, done. Onward!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2017 at 11:02AM
Just about ready to start and break in. Probably tomorrow. I hope it works!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2017 at 11:11AM
wow looks great!!Clap
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2017 at 1:27PM
Looks great!  Hope the break in goes well!
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-September-2017 at 3:25AM

Does not fire up right away.  Lot of cranking and pumping the throttle linkage (wife in car holding key to start position, I am under hood pumping the linkage).  Once it fired, I was able to tie off the throttle linkage to maintain a steady 2000 rpms.  Key was released from Start and in the Run position.  The radiator cap was off so I could monitor flow and burp off air in the coolant system.  About 3 mins into run, thermostat must have popped open because all of a sudden, coolant came pouring out of the open neck on radiator.  Wife immediately shut off ignition.  I cleaned up the mess, fixed a pinhole leak that was in power strg hose, replenished coolant (removed the upper small hose from water pump while filling), and that was enough excitement for the day.

 

Next day, still hard to start, but eventually it did.  Got it up to a steady rpm, sounds good, no skipping.  Wife claims once she let go of Start and let the ignition return to Run, she noticed rpms drop off, and then engine shuts off.  When we tried to restart, just was taking too much cranking and not re-starting, so we took a timeout.  I checked for voltage at the coil, with key in Run, and I do see 13.4 volts.

 

Something or somethings are not right.  Should fire up without excessive cranking or pumping of throttle.  And once it does start, it should obviously stay started.  So where do I begin the troubleshooting?

 

MSD Ready to run dizzy, msd blaster 2 coil.  Orange to neg, Red to pos, and my Red-LG wire to pos (MSD tech said I could just leave the dizzy grey unconnected since I was using my Red-LG).  Black to ground.  New MSD plug wires that I had to cut to size.  I checked each one and was getting around 50 ohms.  I know I have the right firing order.  New plugs (I did not confirm gap).  I was pretty confident about verifying #1 TDC and getting some advanced initial timing.  I have not checked for vac leaks.

 

Anyways, any advice on how to proceed with trouble shooting?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-September-2017 at 5:13AM
I'm hoping I just figured out the answer to my issue.  Could it be a bad ground from block to firewall causing all the issues?
1.  I noticed that the car radio will turn on but no sound comes from the amp, which is properly grounded to the frame in truck (stereo system pumped out real nice before rebuild).  Yet the horn is also grounded to body, and it works, but that obviously only needs a tiny bit of current.
2.  When I was finishing up engine install, I got to the point of attaching the ground strap from rear block to firewall.  I noticed in my pictures that there were actually two ground wires.  One was an uncoated braid flat strap and there was a second coated wire in addition.  Both connected to the same points.  I though that was odd and redundant so I only attached the braided one.  Maybe it needs more than the one ground strap?
 
As a test, I think I ought to put a car jumper cable on the neg post of battery and clip the other end to the body.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72GTS351CJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-September-2017 at 5:34AM
Dan, I doubt it is the ground strap but install that to rule it out. It sounds like a bad ignition switch. Here's a simple test....put the ignition in the run position and jump the starter while checking for spark. Mine went bad...Sometimes I would crank and it wouldn't fire up and sometimes it would. I solved the problem 1 night after after a long cruise and it wouldn't start for nothing. After killing the battery we resorted to the old push start and it fired right up. I changed the ignition switch and never had another problem. The switch can be toucky. It can work and as the car is running it just jiggles and looses connection. That's just my 2 cents from past experience -Rick-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-September-2017 at 9:25AM
verify ignition timing at idle with vacuum advance hose disconnected & plugged
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-September-2017 at 10:42AM
Roger that. Sounds like a plan. I'm hoping this will solve it.
Dan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-September-2017 at 1:52AM
The new ignition switch and starter relay showed up, but before I installed them, I really studied the ignition system wiring schematic, digested it all, and then traced out the actual wires.  I found a major mistake.  The wire that was on the starter relay Ignition post, that I thought was going to the ignition coil, was not the ignition wire.  It was the red wire coming from the Ammeter, C11 connector!  There was not a wire going from the starter relay Ignition post to the coil at all, and I could not find one anywhere in the harness.  The only 12v going to the coil was the run from the Ignition Switch Start position.  So I spliced in to that feed at the input to the C8 connector, and ran a new wire directly to the relay Ignition post.  After a few sputters and cranks, it started and stayed running.  The tach works, held it at about 1800 rpms for a few minutes, then I shut it down.  I think I am out of the woods now.  Couple of things to do though:
1.  I need to dial in the timing and the carb mixture screws.  I still need to break in the new cam though and need another 15 mins of run time at about 2000 rpms.  Should I wait to do the timing and mixture after completing the 15 mins?
2.  I have to figure out what to do with the Red wire coming from the Ammeter.  It obviously doesn't belong on the starter relay I terminal.
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