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72 GTS Deuce

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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2017 at 11:51AM
Originally posted by dave302 dave302 wrote:

The temp sensor is probably located at the top of the water pump such as in between the red circle in the picture below. It might also be located at the top front of the engine block below the thermostat housing near the heater hose such as the white arrow points to in the picture below.

Is this a picture of a Windsor or a Cleveland?
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2017 at 4:02PM
 marc i checked the cleveland i have... it's right below the thermostat facing forward like in the pic with the white arrow!! the red circle is some kind of temp vacuum valve thing?
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2017 at 2:24AM
the pic is of a Cleveland. cast iron (block) timing case, flat sheet metal cover sandwiched between the block & water pump, one heater hose from the block / one hose back to the water pump, temp sender in front face of the block
 
a Windsor will have a 2nd heater hose nipple where the remains of the Thermo-Vac are in the water pump. the Thermo-Vac was a temperature operated vacuum switch that changed the vacuum source for the distributor. I've heard some say that the switch was used to supply manifold vacuum when the engine got a little on the hot side to circulate more coolant by kicking up the idle speed through the advance... IDK?
 
the Windsor also uses a cast alloy timing cover that supports the water pump, not seen in the pic
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2017 at 8:50AM
Thermo-Vac (also known as "No-More-Vac") disabled vacuum advance until the engine warmed up. I think part of the system would bypass the Thermo-Vac in high gear, but that may not apply to Fords...
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Power Surge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2017 at 11:06AM
It's a broken off PVS (ported vacuum switch). PVS' were used to control things like EGR function, spark control systems, heated exhaust valves, etc etc. The housings were different colors, and each color signified the specific opening coolant temperature of that valve. Most people disconnected all that stuff, mainly because the valves would go bad over time. But when everything in the system actually works, the car would run well. 
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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 4:37AM
Alright, I found every thing. I also found the associated wires. I have the oil sending unit-do I need to use thread tape?



Also, does it look like I need a different sender for the water, that line does not just plug in, it is threaded in.


Edited by foote500 - 01-October-2017 at 4:38AM
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 5:14AM
the threaded terminal stud on the sender accepts a slip on connection on the factory harness, same type as on the ignition coil. you may want to make sure the metal ring inside the rubber is tight enough to maintain a good connection, a very gentle squeeze with a plier is all it takes 
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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 5:25AM
The one that is in the picture has a copper wire attached, it wont pull of. I go a new one with the right terminal, now I just need to find a connector.
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 5:35AM
thread tape is a good idea if used correctly, wrap the tap in the direction of screwing the fitting in and don't get any tape below the threads to trail off inside the oil galley
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:19AM
not too many wraps with the tape!! it needs to make a ground connection through the threads to the block!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:22AM
I need a pigtail connector. Which I do not have on Sunday, nor will I find one today.
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:23AM
Originally posted by foote500 foote500 wrote:

Alright, I found every thing. I also found the associated wires. I have the oil sending unit-do I need to use thread tape?



Also, does it look like I need a different sender for the water, that line does not just plug in, it is threaded in.
that looks like a mechanical temp gauge... it's not a copper wire but a very small copper tube that is sealed if it's cut or broken it's junk! remove both fitting from the block the sender will go in the block
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 CORVETTE COUPE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:51AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

not too many wraps with the tape!! it needs to make a ground connection through the threads to the block!
 
good point, check continuity of the sender body to the negative battery terminal after install Thumbs Up
 
Haha i didn't even realize the small pic shows a mechanical capillary tube sender
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:53AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 6:58AM
Auto zone will have one tomorrow. Plus, I screwed in the sending unit, it is real slow to show on the gauge, do I need one of those extender looking things between the sender and block?

Marc
German Shepherd Rescue
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1967 Ford Fairlane 500

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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-October-2017 at 8:50AM
Well, everything is installed, no leaks, oil pressure is slow, but so is the gas gauge. Just waiting for the pig tail.
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-October-2017 at 8:11AM
So I got the pig tail and hooked up the temp sender, but, the temp runs normal while I am moving along, but whenever I put the brakes on the temp spike up to the very high normal, as soon as I take my foot of the brake and start to move it goes back to almost low normal.

A short?
Marc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-October-2017 at 10:09AM
Sounds like a voltage issue. There is a regulator on the back of the cluster that controls your gauges. Those things are not the greatest working things to begin with and it looks like yours could be very sensitive to slight voltage changes in the electrical system.  My 79 ranchero gauges work better with the headlights off! Nothing wrong with the harness just that crazy regulator. There was a guy on E bay that was selling a sold state replacement that works great. (My buddy tony bought one for his 72 GTS) I wish I would have now.   
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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-October-2017 at 10:51AM
Marc
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foote500 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-October-2017 at 6:49AM
Was wondering what everyone does to keep the shoulder belt out of the way and not flapping in the wind...
Marc
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