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72 Ranchero GT sputters & pops when in gear

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72RancheroGT351C View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19-May-2015 at 5:00PM
I just got my dads old 1972 Ford Ranchero GT, it has a 351c 2 barrel with a FMX trans, it has been sitting for the last 4 years & only started every couple months but not driven. We replaced the plugs, cap & rotor, fuel pump & accelerator pump diaphram. I runs at idle really well but when put in gear it is bogging down, surging, sputtering & popping. I thought it may have been bad fuel but I put 10 gal of premium in with some fuel system treatment. The other day i took it around the block to see if anything we did helped & it started over heating also. Looking for any advice or thoughts on what could be the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmaxtorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 1:59AM
I would replace the fuel filter.  also the thermostat may be stuck after sitting so long. Start with those and see what you have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 5:13AM
May need to have the carb cleaned/rebuilt. It sounds like you are too lean(whether it's from mis-adjustment or debris build-up) which will cause both of your symptoms. As Madmaxtorino recommended, change the fuel filter and have a look at the T-stat first, if those "fixes" don't help your situation, try backing out the idle mixture screws about 1/2 turn each and see if that helps. If it is a Motorcraft 2 barrel, these are fairly easy to clean/rebuild. Good luck and keep us posted. Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdaugette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 6:58AM
And, post some pictures!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 8:59AM
Thanks, I will work on that today. Appreciate the help. Keep you posted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 9:02AM
Yeah, I am thinking I may need to redo the carb, I am gonna try the t-stat & fuel filter & maybe get into the carb if those don't help. Thanks for the advice, keep everyone posted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 10:04AM
First, did you add the 10 gallons of premium on top of the 4 year old gas in the tank?
The ethanol in modern gas goes stale, and absorbs water from the air. This may make a layer of water in the bottom of your fuel yank if the ethanol absorbs enough to go out of suspension in the gas. This happens a lot with boats, they call it "Water Bottom". It also may make little blobs of what looks like clear jelly/jello. these will clog fuel filters and foul carbs. Putting fuel treatment products in will not help much, and will only circulate thru fuel lines and carb as it is used/burned..
Crap fuel makes it run lean. running lean makes it pop and sputter, and overheat under load.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 10:33AM
Here is a pic, more to come[IMG][/IMG]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 10:36AM
Unfortunately I did add it to the old gas because there wasn't very much, so I'm guessing that this is one of the major problems. Does this mean I have to drain all the fuel & pull the tank?

Edited by 72RancheroGT351C - 21-May-2015 at 1:03PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 4:46PM
Update: Replaced plug wires, heater hoses, radiator lower hose, T-stat, air & breather filters. Still having the same issues, pulled the fuel filter & emptied it into a clear bottle, fuel was orange & there was a ton of sediment collecting in the bottom. I think my next option is draining all the fuel & inspecting the tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranchero Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-May-2015 at 9:04PM
I've been dealing with a similar issue with my '73 Ranchero. Drained the bad 3 yr old TREATED fuel out of the tank, put fresh gas back in, got the car to run somewhat normal for 5-10 minutes, then it would stumble & die & would not start, unless it sat awhile.  I figured there's a goo ball in the tank. I recently had to transport the car, & to get it up on the trailer, I ran it great off a gas can with 3 gallons of premium ethanol free fuel (didn't know there was such a thing this day & age ) & she ran great. I almost reconcidered trailering & driving it instead, but a brake line opened upUnhappy so had to trailer it anyway. So my suggestion is to try running it off a SECURED auxillary source,& see how she runs & drives.
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdaugette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-May-2015 at 2:59AM
The pic is cool.  Hopefully, a nice clean tank solves your problem.  I am liking the 72 Ranchero's a little more.....
Bill Daugette
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-May-2015 at 5:16AM
HAD THE PROBLEM ON MY 77 COBRA II.  You're going to have to pull the tank and clean it out.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-May-2015 at 10:02AM
Thank you EPA and tree-hugger bung-holes who wanted ethanol in the gas!
(In case you can't tell, I'm being sarcastic)
My thunderbird sat for a year before I got it, and it took me about another year to get it going. I had to drain and dispose of 23 gallons of orange gas with jelly-balls and a water layer. Carb had white fuzzy lumps in it, like clumps of mold. Smelled like the monkey house at the zoo too...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-May-2015 at 2:21PM
Shhhhh!!!! Ix-nay on the onkey-may!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-May-2015 at 2:06AM
Ahhhhh, monkeys!!!

You will have to pull and clean the tank. Also, check the lines and replace the fuel filter (you may have to do that a couple of times). My red wagon sat for years before I bought it, only started occasionally. I filled up the tank, and it ran well for the 2 hour trip home. However, from that moment on, I fought for a year with sediment, and it's related issues because I refused to pull the tank. Now, I am going to EFI and will have to. It is also a great idea to coat the inside of the tank with tank sealer after thoroughly cleaning it completely out. The sealer seals any pinholes and provides a durable coating that won't rust or flake off in the future. But it MUST be completely clean, dry and rust-free inside before applying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-May-2015 at 12:23PM

Yes, you are going to need a new or cleaned and treated fuel tank.

 
I had that with OL'Brown.
I used one of those clear glass fuel filters at the carb. I could watch it get dirty and the sediment collect.
Would pull and clean it every so often to keep it clean.
Also that means there is ALOT of crap IN the carb. Clean it out and it will run ALOT better, at least until more sediment gets through and clogs it up again until you get the tank handled.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2015 at 8:30PM
Fuel tank is pulled & sending unit is looking a bit rough, float is non existent & screen is in dire need of replacing so that's my hurdle right now, but I am optimistic. Also I'm really contemplating rebuilding the carb but I'm a bit nervous about screwing that up since I've never done it before. My dad says he's done a few & its just a matter of sitting down at the table, following the steps one by one & not trying to rush or take short cuts, also not loosing any of the tony parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote antlerfiend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-May-2015 at 11:30PM
Clean is the word when you rebuild a carb. Make sure to blow high pressure air though every orifice. Not to hard to rebuild a carb though. You tube is a wonderful thing.
Alex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 5:13PM
So today my dad & I worked on the fuel tank, he emptied & removed it yesterday, the sending unit is operational but no float or screen, the tank was full of rust & particulates. So we rigged up a type of media cleaning to get the rest of the particles & rust knocked loose & out of it. Here are some before & after pics & how re worked it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 5:16PM
After pics:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 5:27PM
We also cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter & purged the fuel lines. Once we got the carb cleaned, not really bad either, float was working well, jets were not fouled up. We put everything back together & fed the beast from a 5gal can of premium strapped in the back & fed to the fuel line. Shes running much better than before but I am still having the popping & sputtering, it is a whole lot better than before though. Is there any way this could be related to electrical or ignition & not the fuel system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 6:26PM
Does anyone know if a 64 65 66 67 68 Mustang Gas / Fuel Sending Unit NEW fit the 72 ranchero gt tank? It looks identical
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 6:48PM
yes, electrical can act like fuel problems! where is it popping from? back through the carb? or out through the exhaust? or both???

BTW the cement mixer...pure genius Thumbs Up


Edited by californiajohnny - 24-May-2015 at 6:49PM
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 8:00PM
PURE GENIUS!!!!
 
I LOVE the cement mixer idea!!!
 
We have another redneck engineer in our midst!
THAT WAS AWESOME!!!!
 
What did you put in the tank to get it clean?
With it clean like that you should look into putting some POR-15 Fuel tank paint in it to keep it good for MANY years to come!
 
the points/condenser can cause that popping/stuttering too!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-May-2015 at 9:40PM
As everybody said, the cement mixer is genius.
Take a look at your pugs and see what are they reading Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2015 at 1:21AM
X3 or 4 on the cement mixer idea! You have some options with the tank, here are a few: A) Have it coated internally, like using POR15 (as Regul8r mentioned) or you can call your local radiator shop and see if they provide this type of service(my father did this for his '57 Olds fuel tank), the rad shop had a commercial type of sealer that was guaranteed not to deteriorate. B) If the tank is more rusted or deteriorated than to your liking you could install a brand new '74-'79 tank(a LOT easier to find), but this requires a new sending unit(you may need one anyway from your replies), possibly longer/shorter tank straps since '74-'79 models came with 22 or 26 gallon tanks and a fuel tank vent that would install where your sending unit previously was positioned(the vent is a $1 at a local wrecking yard). C) Leave it as is = reoccurring troubles and not a good idea. Again just a few things that come to mind.
 When you rebuilt the carb, did you have a look at the "power valve" that resides in the bottom of the float bowl? It has been 25 years since I messed with a 2100-2150 Autolite/Motorcraft, but they are a decent 2 barrel carb. Sounds like you are "gaining ground" on the problem, as far as fuel and ignition systems are concerned. Another "issue" could be that the 351C has the original timing chain set that includes the(troublesome) nylon "toothed" camshaft gear, usually causes bigger issues than what your are experiencing but just a "heads-up" and something to have a closer look at. Keep up the great progress and posting of pics!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2015 at 7:27AM
It is popping at both it sounds like, but definitely at the carb that I have seen first hand. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2015 at 8:14AM
maybe a long shot, but how are the plugs? a faulty condenser can act like fuel problems! weak coil?
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RancheroGT351C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-May-2015 at 9:19AM
Plugs, wires, cap/rotor all brand new, tried to swap condenser yesterday & it was not having it, tried 2 different condensers on it but both made it worse.
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