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72-79 NEW Instrument cluster insert

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Regul8r 2 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25-March-2016 at 2:17PM
FINALLY got around to working on creating a new dash insert for gages for our cars.
 
Been a goal of mine to make items the rest of the parts world do not make for our cars.
 
a few of my planned ideas have already been done so here is my first endeavor in to this world and CERTAINLY NOT my last!!!
 
The goal here is to build a complete dash with gages and a wiring harness that you the customer buys, cut the factory dash connector and crimp or solder your car harness wires to the connector provided.
I will be doing a full color coordinated and correct colored wiring harness to make it simple for you to just cut and splice by matching colors.
 
Will have to build these on demand and special ordered from you with the info from you about YOUR car.
Yr, sport or base dash, low fuel economy light or not, what color and gages YOU want, what color or material you want it covered in.
 
Here is the thread showing what others have tried and done.
The issue with these is you still have to use that 40yr old crumbling plastic piece and try to MAKE SOMETHING FIT/WORK. That is NOT what I am doing here. I am making an entirely NEW piece just as if you could call and order one from a dash company like you can for all the other hot rods in the world!


Edited by Regul8r 2 - 25-March-2016 at 4:23PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 2:26PM
Pulled the dash and cluster out of Lola to get started. Using her as my mock up model.
She is my 1976 Ford Elite with factory Sport dash and NO low fuel economy light function.
Pulled it out and totally disassembled, pictures for reference.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 3:18PM
DAY 2.
 
So anyone who has looked at or thought about doing this knows that the MAIN issue with doing this in our cars are the angles.
The gages are set at an angle that you, the driver can easily read, that is set close to perpendicular to your line of sight. This is the white cluster assembly, you know... the one that holds the gages and crumbles to dust when you touch it!
The front face is at an angle that actually is straight up and down or even facing slight down from the driver's line of sight. To compensate Ford made the front cover with the tubes set at angles to your eye sight giving you the visibility and illusion that those gages are facing your eyes. To further make this match up they added the plate intermediate plate, the one behind the clear cover that is screwed to the white cluster. Well, IF you just slapped gages in to the front cover then all the gages would be facing your lap and be unreadable to the driver. The other issue with that is when you drill a round hole at an angle through a flat surface you get oval holes! So even if you did try to mount them there... they will not fit properly. Here is a cover plate that shows the oval round holes...
 
 
BTW, That NOS dash front cover pad is for sale!
 
 
So, first step in my head was to make a flat panel that fits in place.
The issue is the vent on the far left is on a different plane, closer to the driver.
Also the far right top screw hole is on a DIFFERENT plane than the vent or the 2 top center screw mounts.
I decided to do a short panel that used the far right top screw mount as ground zero and not worry about the vent side yet. Needed to get the proper shape and fit of a panel first. I knew I would have a few or more cut outs and templates before I got it all right.
some marking, tracing, cutting, drilling, filing and adjustments got me this ROUGH cut out and mounted.
cut this one out to use only the 2 screws that held the white cluster in place and did ROUGH cuts around the steering column and the tabs. just needed to see it on place.
 
 
 
moved on to the vent area.
had to trim the upper left lip.
I did this because my intention is to have a flat plate dash and this was in the way of getting clean lines and edges.
 
 
 
See, cleaner edge and the top is online straight across the whole opening.
 
Measured out and figured holes and center of the vent to make a separate piece for that section.
Left it long on the right side until I figured out how I was going to tie it in to the gage panel.
In this picture you can see I had to file out a couple grooves bigger than the circle.
That is for the extra plastic on the outside of the vent where the tabs mount.
The vent would not fit through the hole otherwise.
The factory dash cover tube set inside this vents rim area.
 
 
So this was the way I figured it would be best.
The factory dash front cover goes OVER all this, the vent has 3 screws that hold it in place behind the dash cover.
I decided to use my new dash to hold it in behind and use the 3 screws to secure the dash plate. so the screws go through the dash plate, through the vent tabs and in to the spring/fender nuts behind.
THAT led to a another piece of adjusting and trimming.
The vent tabs have molded gussets on them to help keep them from breaking as they are a stand alone piece.
I had to trim them in order to get the face plate to mount flush on the tabs...
 
 
 
 
So, now I have the vent plate and the dash/gage plate ROUGH cut and mounted.
At this point I KNOW I can make this work! YAY ME!!
 
Well? not so fast skippy!
With the gage plate and the vent plate being on 2 different planes they were also on 2 different angles!
So, I had to fabricate a filler block to connect the two and fill the void.
Also put a spacer block on the far lower left of the vent plate to prevent a weak point that would be easily broken as it just hung down.
At this point I also traced and made adjustments from the 1st gage panel, trimmed it better around the column, made the tabs as big as possible to fit in the channels at the top and this time I did not cut out the bottom. I left the bottom edge flat to use all the screw holes for mounting.
In this pic you can see the difference in planes and angles.
 
and a pic underneath showing the spacer blocks.
Notice the molded dash stand off underneath? That is the lower right screw mount for the vent. CANNOT do without that!
 
 
See the top two screw holes have no screws? The mounts are 5/8" back from this flat plane from the far right! Will have to make spacers later.
Looks good for a 1st rough draft, I am happy with it.
 
 
Sat in the car for a few minutes looking and figuring after this was all in...
A HA!! ANOTHER IDEA!!!
I THINK I figured a way to do this a little different and clean up the looks along with lessen the degree of difficulty! lol


Edited by Regul8r 2 - 25-March-2016 at 3:19PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinnys Garage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 3:58PM
Why not just use a '77-'79 set up to start with? That will give you the flat panel you're looking for, plus solves the mount/finish issues and corrects (replaces) the vent without any fab work. Cut out a flat face plate to fit over the original with holes cut where you want the gauges and trim away the original as needed. Just a thought........
Scott -'73 Gran Torino Brougham

Past Torino's -'73 Q-code GTS, '76 Original PS-122 S&H, '73 H-code GTS, '73 Ranchero
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 3:59PM
Day 3.
 
As I was sitting in the car looking at it all and thinking I came up with a different way to do it.
 
I LIKED the angle the vent plate sits at! It has a better line of sight angle than the gage panel in that set up.
 
So, I got started tracing the panel for ANOTHER cut out and mock up.
WHAT IF, I made the whole panel along the plane and angle of the vent plate?
Better angle and it would be a single flat piece!
So tracing, measuring, marking, cutting, drilling and trimming got me a single full piece from left to right and top to bottom!
 
 
When I cut it I left the bottom long to verify the line of sight that covers the screw holes underneath when I marked the bottom corner edges at the lower dash on top of the black. PERFECT place for it to line up! The angle and plane of the vent panel set it RIGHT AT THOSE CORNERS!
here you can see the old one was set back from the corner and also see the gaps around the steering column.
Here is the new angle you can see it meets the corner better.
Also how the column gaps are cleaned up.
With the new angle the bottom is further forward so it does not show the top edges of the column surround on the lower dash.
 
And another shot of the cleaned up column area.
 
This new angle created a gap underneath similar to the factory front cover plate.
THIS was one of the reasons I went this direction after looking at the vent angle and space underneath!
I can use this space to mount floor under dash lights that come on with the door opening or the light switch. My car already has a single bulb light above the windshield wiper knob. Not sure if that is on all the time with the dash lights  or when I open the door. I will figure that out when I get to the wiring. Either way this space/channel created is a GREAT place to mount LEDs, kill switches, or any other hidden type switches! Push button start? NOS? Sirens? Wig-Wags? Driving/Fog lights? maybe a rear facing spot light for backing up, or is it to shine those tailgating assholes or with their high beams on? etc... 
 
 
Used cardboard to make a template of the angles I need to make lower brackets to mount the bottom of the panel. Pulled some scrap thick sheet metal I had laying around (Alex knows this stuff... backing from the drywallers on my old construction site. it is pretty good stuff).
Bent it up, marked and drilled the holes to mount to the dash. Again, just ROUGH mock up work at this point.
 
have to use 2 on the left side to work around that lower vent screw mount.
 
IF I had a sheet metal brake and a piece long enough the right side could be done with one piece(that is the plan when the final product comes out).
Hard to get the pieces exact when working with just a vise and hammer. BUT, they are doing the trick for the mock up! These were supposed to be a matching pair. oh well!
 
Marked, drilled and installed the brackets on the bottom of the gage panel.
 
Had to measure and build spacers for the top screw mounts. you can see the far left spacer is smaller than the 2 center ones and yet no spacer on the far end where the vent screw mounts are.
This shows the 3 different planes I had to work with!
 
AND... the finished piece(to this point).
 
Next step...
 
Mock up the TOP plate the screws in to the bottom of the dash and figure how that is going to tie in to the gage panel or be a separate piece.
 
That's all for tonight, Day 3.


Edited by Regul8r - 26-March-2016 at 3:03AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 4:14PM
Originally posted by Skinnys Garage Skinnys Garage wrote:

Why not just use a '77-'79 set up to start with? That will give you the flat panel you're looking for, plus solves the mount/finish issues and corrects (replaces) the vent without any fab work. Cut out a flat face plate to fit over the original with holes cut where you want the gauges and trim away the original as needed. Just a thought........
 
That doesn't solve any of the issues.
STILL using 40yr old dry rotting white cluster set up.
Yes there are differences through the years but the 72-79 are basically the same set up with the same dash, same angles, same white cluster, black intermediate tubes under the clear cover and behind the same basic front plate.
 
 
the point behind this is to make an aftermarket replacement set up for the 72-79 world.
NO ONE does it, NO companies have one!
IF you have a non sport dash or a bad sport dash that is falling apart or gages don't work... you have NO CHOICE but to buy a used 40 yr old one from someone that may or may not work and for how long. then how long before that one starts to crumble and fail.
 
I am making a COMPLETE NEW DASH/INSTRUMENT set up for our cars.
Complete with a color correct wiring harness(for your year car) that goes through a multi-pin connector.
ALL NEW wires, connectors, lights and gages made from steel with options for colors and/or fabrics.
This will not be some backyard hacked together piece.
Once I get the mock-ups done and bugs worked out I will start producing them for sale to the masses. 
Same as you would get when you buy from a company like Dakota Digital and others.
 
 and, that has bee tried. with some success but still requires using old pieces and then you have to wire everything up yourself.
 


Edited by Regul8r 2 - 25-March-2016 at 4:25PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinnys Garage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 4:26PM
I meant the standard '77-'79 flat panel setup, not the sport cluster. This will give you exactly what you're building. Start with the factory face panel that has all the mounting points in place as well as a vent grill that fits without mods. You could cut nearly all the original panel out except for the outer surround and vent area, then attach a nice overlay with your new setup installed. This way, the space between the panel and the dash pad will be filled with a nice factory piece, win win. Borrowed a photo from ebay.




Edited by Skinnys Garage - 25-March-2016 at 4:38PM
Scott -'73 Gran Torino Brougham

Past Torino's -'73 Q-code GTS, '76 Original PS-122 S&H, '73 H-code GTS, '73 Ranchero
        '71 Cobra 351 Auto, '70 351C Brougham 2dr HT, '71 351C Ranchero
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 4:36PM
Originally posted by Skinnys Garage Skinnys Garage wrote:

I meant the standard '77-'79 flat panel setup, not the sport cluster. This will give you exactly what you're building. Start with the factory face panel that has all the mounting points in place as well as a vent grill that fits without mods. You could cut nearly all the original panel out except for the outer surround and vent area and attach a nice overlay with your new setup installed. This way, the space between the panel and the dash pad will be filled with a nice factory piece, win win.
 
Ah, I see what you are saying now...
 
a decent idea. Not the direction I want to go with this project though.
I am working on doing this with all NEW stuff with no need to buy used this or that piece from someone and then still be using 40yr old plastic.
 
 
 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skinnys Garage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 4:49PM
Like I said, just thinking out loud. Best of luck with your project.
Scott -'73 Gran Torino Brougham

Past Torino's -'73 Q-code GTS, '76 Original PS-122 S&H, '73 H-code GTS, '73 Ranchero
        '71 Cobra 351 Auto, '70 351C Brougham 2dr HT, '71 351C Ranchero
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-March-2016 at 4:57PM
Contacted and spoke with a company today about LED indicator lights.
 
He is making me a deal on these!
Good price on all my future purchases too.
I ordered a set for this 1st build today.
He is throwing in some samples of other style LEDs to see which I like for this better along with resistors to dim down the LEDs so the Blue Hi-Beam and Green Turn Signal indicators don't blind you when they come on! lol
 
5 per dash standard
1-Blue Hi-Beam
2-Green Left and Right Turn Signals
2 Red 1 for Brake and 1 for seat belt
IF your car has the "low fuel economy" indicator then I will do that with an Amber LED if you want.
 
These are the LEDs...
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan the ranchero man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-March-2016 at 12:09AM
Have you ever thought of possibly using a 3D printer to make your parts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-March-2016 at 3:04AM
Originally posted by Dan the ranchero man Dan the ranchero man wrote:

Have you ever thought of possibly using a 3D printer to make your parts?
 
yup, thought about it as an option.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-March-2016 at 5:46AM
Originally posted by Skinnys Garage Skinnys Garage wrote:

I meant the standard '77-'79 flat panel setup, not the sport cluster. This will give you exactly what you're building. Start with the factory face panel that has all the mounting points in place as well as a vent grill that fits without mods. You could cut nearly all the original panel out except for the outer surround and vent area, then attach a nice overlay with your new setup installed. This way, the space between the panel and the dash pad will be filled with a nice factory piece, win win. Borrowed a photo from ebay.


This panel, made of aluminum or steel, with provisions for tying it into the mounting points for the white gauge carrier. You could set up for the base instruments or a layout like the sport cluster depending on how you cut the holes and use aftermarket gauges in the appropriate sizes for the look you want. As for wiring it, many of us have issues with the "printed circuit" for the gauges as well. Use something like the G.M. weatherpak connectors, and splice your existing harness to the weatherpak set-up. Been poking into this off and on as well, as the only thing working on my base dash is the speedometer Thumbs Down, and that is probably not right either as the axle and transmission have both been changed and the tires are not standard size.
AT current, my gauge carrier is held together with epoxy, pop rivets, aluminum strips, and luck...
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-March-2016 at 3:55PM
Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

Originally posted by Skinnys Garage Skinnys Garage wrote:

I meant the standard '77-'79 flat panel setup, not the sport cluster. This will give you exactly what you're building. Start with the factory face panel that has all the mounting points in place as well as a vent grill that fits without mods. You could cut nearly all the original panel out except for the outer surround and vent area, then attach a nice overlay with your new setup installed. This way, the space between the panel and the dash pad will be filled with a nice factory piece, win win. Borrowed a photo from ebay.


This panel, made of aluminum or steel, with provisions for tying it into the mounting points for the white gauge carrier. You could set up for the base instruments or a layout like the sport cluster depending on how you cut the holes and use aftermarket gauges in the appropriate sizes for the look you want. As for wiring it, many of us have issues with the "printed circuit" for the gauges as well. Use something like the G.M. weatherpak connectors, and splice your existing harness to the weatherpak set-up. Been poking into this off and on as well, as the only thing working on my base dash is the speedometer Thumbs Down, and that is probably not right either as the axle and transmission have both been changed and the tires are not standard size.
AT current, my gauge carrier is held together with epoxy, pop rivets, aluminum strips, and luck...
 
agreed but, it is not as easy as it sounds, all the mounting points are on different planes requiring spacers and specific cut outs.
 
The best way to do it with the one pictured is cut out the center section, mount a panel with new holes as you see fit, add your new gages and wire accordingly. Just mount it with the screw tabs here on the panel and call it a day. Again the issue is using 40yr old plastic to mount a pile of heavy gages to, find this dash panel in good shape and then do all the work yourself.
 


Edited by Regul8r 2 - 26-March-2016 at 3:56PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 2:25PM
can you make a bracket for the column support assy to take the weight? 
 
maybe some springs to the underside of the dash cover?
 
like you're aware, anything to help out that crumbly plastic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 3:22PM
I am replacing the entire white cluster.
 
This flat panel I have is already a USABLE piece. Just make it out of Aluminum(which I have to use for mine) or thick sheet metal.
 
I am also figuring and mocking up one that will allow you can re-use your stock front plate for that factory dash look.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 3:29PM
i'll throw in my 2 cents... the white crumbly plastic is a different make up than the bezel cover it is ABS. using the bezel surround with a steel overlay is probably the simplest method, you could locate a couple of steel studs welded to the back of the overlay that stick straight back into the dash were the white part attaches to help with support, but bolted tight is better!  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 3:41PM
I agree with all the things I "COULD" do and like some of them as options. I have looked in to them in the past and contemplated how and what I was going to do for a few years now. Just finally getting to it!
My goal is to be completely NEW, not re-using ANY old parts for this one.
 
This will be a NEW AFTERMARKET option for the Gran Torino/Ranchero world.
 
NO ONE offers us any aftermarket options and that is what this is.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlachance112785 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 7:59PM
I used these for indicators on mine. I wasn't a fan of the generic plain light. These look/work nice. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-March-2016 at 9:15PM
Originally posted by mlachance112785 mlachance112785 wrote:

I used these for indicators on mine. I wasn't a fan of the generic plain light. These look/work nice. 
 
no picture?
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