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73 Gran Torino Progress

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-April-2011 at 2:00PM
sounds like a good plan.
That isn't a "resto/mod" by definition.
It will be a great custom hot rod/muscle car, Keep the pics and updates coming!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZCowher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 1:35AM
Oh Ok. What is a resto/mod by definition then?
ZC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GTS73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 2:27AM
A restomod (my definition anyhow) would be maintaining an overall original look while enhancing the car's luxury and performance with additions such as a higher performance and/or modern engine, better handling brakes and suspension, aftermarket wheels, power windows, air conditioning, sound system, etc.


Edited by GTS73 - 27-April-2011 at 2:32AM
-Keith

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 2:33AM
Restoration of the body and interior with tastefully done modern modifications to the drivetrain/interior in order to enhance the driving experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GTS73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 2:37AM
Originally posted by unlovedford unlovedford wrote:

...with tastefully done modern modifications...

Ah, tastefully done... that is key.
-Keith

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 6:06AM
To me there are different levels of RestoMod but I believe Mod = Modern,not modification.RestoMods started when people took classic cars and add modern drivetrain and chassic components such as modern EFI Engines,overdrive transmissions,Independent Rear Suspension(IRS) ,modern disc brakes w/ABS and suspensions with swaybars,gas shocks that handle the road better,bigger and wider wheels and performance tires .Also they introduced modern interior components-seats,instrumentation,modern looking custom interior panels,power features ,etc. That give you the comforts of modern cars.The Resto = a classic car body that still resembles the original car but can have modifications such as Modern lighting and minor body modification but still maintains the basic style & look of the original classic car body.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 6:19AM
major score on the 400, you'll have no problem making enough power for a street muscle car with that as a starting point
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 6:20AM
If you modernize it, you are modifying it.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 6:40AM
Yes but as my take on it the Mod stands for Modern. You can Modify a classic car and still be considered a classic or custom classic, but the RestoMod is a blend of a Classic car with Modern featureS found in late model performance cars
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 8:37AM
Resto Mod is putting new era stuff in an old car.
Retain original(ISH) look but stick modern components in it.
Like a 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 with EFI in your Torino.
 
Most hot rodders do a restoration back to original type stuff or they CUSTOMIZE their cars.
 
Resto/Mod is a HIGHLY over used term and just a pet peeve of mine.
Just like the term RAT ROD.
Wrongful use of terms is like nails on a chalk board to me. lol
 
Same as when I here people say it is ORIGINAL but was repainted or engine was freshened up/rebuilt with a mild cam... UM... HELLO... IT AIN'T ORIGINAL NO MORE!
 
sorry for the rant... just had to get that off my chest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZCowher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 9:01AM

I agree with the 400, just fix a few factory goofs and add a few things should be good to go.

any suggections for what to do to the engine? I was thinking an edle brock 750cfm street performer with an edlebrock performer dual plane intake for starters( and fixing the timing which seems to be a major issue for the 400)
 
Since we figured out about what a resto/mod is, what am I doing by what I described so that I use the right terminology for it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 9:46AM
well... in the 400 dept, the piston to deck clearance is considered a big issue. factory pistons are usually .065" down in the hole and common aftermarket 'rebuilder' pistons are .085" or more. good news though Tim Meyer has brought a line of pistons to market that corrects the pathetic compression robbing deck clearance. www.tmeyerinc.com 
 
factory cam timing & profiles were terrible for performance after 1971. since you probably won't be using a factory cam it's nothing to worry about. just degree the cam in to manufacturer's specs and it'll do what they say. be aware in choosing a cam that a 400 engine will 'shrink' a cam rated for 351 inches. if the notes state that the operating range is 1500-5500 rpm in a 351, it'll be a little less in a 400
 
1974 and earlier heads are better than the 1975(D5xx casting) and later heads with the restricted exhaust port, hopefully you have the 74 heads that the valve cover sticker suggests. the pre-75 heads are basically the same as 351C 2V heads but they still need to be checked for coil bind and retainer clearance for any cam over stock lift, the stock hardware may crash into the tops of the valve guides
 
a) choose pistons to establish compression ratio
b) choose rear gear torque converter to establish overall vehicle performance & fuel economy
c) choose cam to suit compression ratio, rear gear & converter
 
what is referred to as 'the combo' needs to all work well together for an enjoyable experience
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 9:56AM
Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

... is a HIGHLY over used term and just a pet peeve of mine.
 
just don't tell me about an RV cam. it's a useless generic term that describes absolutely nothing. cams have manufacturers, part numbers, grind numbers and specs... lobe lift, lift at the valve, advertised duration, duration @ .050", Lobe Center Line, Lobe Seperation Angle...
 
WHAT'S AN RV CAM, IS IT FOR A WINNEBAGO ? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZCowher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 10:14AM
I found build of a 400 and the build says that they used pistons from a dodge 340, I'll send the link as soon as I can find it again. does that sound likely at all? As far as performance goes I'd still like it to sh*t 'n' git(as I said before between 350-400hp) but I'm hoping to get round 15mpg if I can help it. I still need to afford to drive the darn thing lol.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 10:38AM
Zach to use the right terminology just call it a HotRod cause you are basically staying with 70's technology with the 400/C6 and as your probably staying with the stock suspension your simply building a HotRod Torino cause a hotrod is a vehicle that has been taken and adding perfomance modifications and some customizing but most of the vehicle has alot of original style parts.As far as the 400 goes I have no clue cause to me they were complex motors and I stayed with the 351C as I had a few gorino's with them so I know more about them but still I am np expert and I have mechanical skills but my expertise is in the Autobody Field and always rely on people with experience to help me when doing engine rebuilds.I do alot of the work myself but get help from buddies who are skilled mechanics cause I don't even own a torque wrench and not gonna buy one and have it collect dust cause a decent one is not cheap and all my life I have always had a friend who is a mechanic by trade.Now I get to learn big block Fords.One thing for sure is to match your components.Depending on the cam you choose I really don't think you will need a 750 cfm carb if you are going with a mild build with just a cam and intake probably stay with a 600-670 cfm.I had a 600 cfm on my 74 351C 2v that I did cam,lifters,springs,pushrods and Edelbrock Performer 4bbl intake with headers and dual exhaust and the 600 was plenty I forget the lift on the cam but it is a 292 duration.You can hurt performance by having too much cfm's and why it is important to match performance parts so they work together and enhance performance.That is why I try to find people that have experience with the type of engine I have cause they know what does or doesnKt work and with as many members we have there has to be a few people that know the 400's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 10:59AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

Originally posted by cowboyupdjcarl cowboyupdjcarl wrote:

... is a HIGHLY over used term and just a pet peeve of mine.
 
just don't tell me about an RV cam. it's a useless generic term that describes absolutely nothing. cams have manufacturers, part numbers, grind numbers and specs... lobe lift, lift at the valve, advertised duration, duration @ .050", Lobe Center Line, Lobe Seperation Angle...
 
WHAT'S AN RV CAM, IS IT FOR A WINNEBAGO ? 
 
Ya thats funny, I hear that term alot too and have mistakenly used it in the past too. lol
Most times I have used it as a feeler to see if the person I am talking to has ANY CLUE about motors.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 11:29AM
the article is called The Mutt, what a me$$
 
probably an advertising piece for Edelbrock heads?
 
an exerci$e in how to $pend needle$$ly, from the comment$ here and everywhere el$e i've $een i'm not the only one that think$ $o  http://streetmuscleaction.com/engines/400-ford-dyno/
 
the beauty of the 400 is the 4" stock stroke and dirt cheap availablity.  it's a torque monster from birth, you can run less gear & converter which makes for a more economical build and lower operating costs for the life of the vehicle. the 400 can make the same power at lower rpm than a 351 and make a 302 look like a 4 cylinder
 
i can't even read any more of it, every excuse he uses to blow bucks is BS
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZCowher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 11:36AM
I could have went with a 351c but I wanted this car to something else, to be different and the 400 was the ticket plus the whole free thing was pretty cool to. As far as the date for the engine goes. The only thing known about were it came from is from a 78 f-250 but knowing my friend thats probably not the original engine to the truck. I'm also getting a C-6 free as well but I'm picking that up this Saturday I think. I have decent experience with engines but I am by no means an expert. Most of what I work on are from the 80-90's. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ZCowher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 11:42AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

the article is called The Mutt, what a me$$

 
the beauty of the 400 is the 4" stock stroke and dirt cheap availablity.  it's a torque monster from birth, you can run less gear & converter which makes for a more economical build and lower operating costs for the life of the vehicle. the 400 can make the same power at lower rpm than a 351 and make a 302 look like a 4 cylinder

 

As I did some research on the engine I found about the same thing. This makes it perfect for what I want to do and I love an underdog lol I cant wait to prove what such a talked down on engine can really do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2011 at 12:37PM
the valve cover sticker in your pic shows 1974
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