From what I remember it had 3 tabs in the back that held the backing plate in place

 if you look at the photo of the back you can see the tab

the backing plate is actually a round disc that fit's in the center circle and holds the insert into the emblem body and it has two long studs with a black plastic flat crossbar piece that goes across the two studs and has two speed nuts to secure the cross bar.The emblem goes in the center of the grille and the studs go through the grille mesh and the crossbar goes on the back side and keeps the emblem from pulling through as the speed nuts are tightened down to secure the crossbar against the grille plastic and the grille gets sandwiched between the emblem body and the crossbar

 If that is the grille from the White 73 GTS, i'm sorry but the emblem is mine and Andy needs to ship it to me as I paid for the whole car then we ended up parting it out but this is one of the items I wanted off the car

I think I upload mine at 800x600, you can change the size you want them to appear before uploading them to photobucket off your computer

I am going to pass though on Bristol this year. I know it doesn't make sense to some, but for my $$$, I prefer powertour.

I elected to run a small  external line, the line I have is your typical traded stainless AN line, #3? {or was it#4} AN line fittings, I aware it's a 3/16" or 1/4" ID line I used.

I only did this as a precaution and probably a knee jerk reaction due to an apparent oil PSI drop I had.

Which, was in fact after I had a bad curb in 2009 and the pickup was probably smashed into the cover.

Because I had a bad habit of spinning my engine at 4k on the highway, and also loved to fire through the gears in my top loader, I was concerned about the amount of oil, and oil pressure. This turned out to be of all things, the sending unit was loose and leaking a small bit.

My engine is a mystery rebuild...it was redone by someone at some point, but I have no info, as I bought it for $120 15+ years ago for my old Elite project.

I took the measure of widening a stock CJ baffle pan {another rather stupid deal...dropped my CJ crank on my CJ pan on summer day}

I have heard stories from some of the network 54 guys about the cleveland being able to literally suck a pan dry rather fast on engines running 5K+ for some period of time and figured 8-9 quarts vs the stock 6 can't hurt.

I don't have any good images of the line, but it's pretty much basic.

I know I've done pretty standard things, like making sure to swap out the pedestal fulcrums to steel vs the soft 2v originals, I had the heads gone through about 11 years ago for a hardened seat job and valves.

On the CJ, I am planning on sending it out to MME, because frankly, around here, there just is no one I freaking trust with my cleveland. Too much small block check garbage in the local machine shops.

On good laugh for the night...want to scare a woman? Show her the cost of a full crower engine parts list with one of their crank kits...

Andy ,

Racing expense is listed under Competitors Link on the info I posted from Bristol Dragway

simply click on the links for info and pricing

Never say a wagon can't do autocross! Just get some HD springs on all 4 corners, and some sway bars...LOL