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A/C Conversion or Replacement?

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havanariviera View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29-January-2018 at 12:30PM
Hi All, looking to the group for expertise - I have a 72 GTS, it is a factory A/C car - the heater works really well, and the air (when switched to cold) blows powerfully when turned on - just not cold. I have been looking for a solution for this issue that I can share with my mechanic. (I'm not a DIY guy as you might already know)
Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. All original components are there, and as mentioned, it blows full force - just not cold. I've tried to do some research on conversion kits, etc., but unfortunately I don't always know what I'm looking at or how to interpret it. When I talked briefly with my mechanic on this topic, he said we would start with a "vacumm test" as I recall, to diagnose what the issue is first. Not sure if anyone has any ideas based on my description. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Big Bird View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2018 at 1:19PM
Needs a charge of R-12, or, someone did a "conversion" with one of the kits available back in the 90s. Kits work, but not as cold.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
Almost forgot: "Get off my lawn!!!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2018 at 3:22PM
and or a seal has gone south after the 90's conversion

what's the next step after you attempt to pull vacuum and fail?

how do you leak test vacuum? Wacko
72 GT Ute
   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2018 at 4:07PM
How long has the A/C system been blowing warm? It could be an expansion valve issue or a stuck STV/POA or just low on Freon. I would find someone with a leak detector, the electronic beeping style of detector and check each o-ring joint, compressor, condenser and etc. Visually you may be able to find a leak (oily deposits), but the detector should find them all. If there is a leak I would recommend a complete system tear down to replace all the O-rings, expansion valve and filter/drier, then  flush flush flush the remaining components(may be a good idea to pressure check condenser and evaporator core as well). Having new hoses made is another option at this time. Try to re-use the STV/POA valve set-up(some can be easily adjusted for 134a use) for the stock style compressor is NOT designed to be cycled on-off-on like the newer systems operate, doing so WILL burn up the stock compressor's clutch in no time. The stock condenser will work with 134a, but at a reduction in efficiency as compared to R-12 use. A parallel flow condenser is preferred for use with 134a, but I don't believe one is made right now specifically for a '72 Torino, you would have to use a "universal" unit and do some A/C line/hose mods. Here is a link for testing your STV/POA valve:
 
Hope this is helpful. Not trying to spend your money, but when dealing with A/C system, you either fix it right the first time or re-do it all over again. Good luck.
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fordismyboss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-January-2018 at 4:47AM
From my project post:

Restore 72 GTS Air Conditioning system from R12 to 134a.


Started with original 351c(now 429CJ) A/C system with no apparent flaws, just a missing A/C belt and disconnected compressor clutch.
New "YORK" compressor from Classic Air in Florida, and new expansion valve, dryer, and O-rings from Old Air in Texas.
Cleaned all components and hoses I did not replace with denatured alcohol and compressed air.
Restored evaporator housing with new sealing foam and Thermo Guard FR. When I restored the car, I insulated the ceiling, doors, firewall, behind the back seat, and floor.
Cleaned and repainted the accumulator.
Rebuilt idler pulleys with new bearings.
Used an original compressor clutch from a 1971 Mercury Marquis with a 429.  
Replaced the original condenser with a bolt-in unit designed for 134a (tried to save original condenser but it had tiny slow leaks)   
After cleaning the original components, there was still a bit of mineral oil left in the system and learning that Ester oil is compatible with mineral oil, I drained the PAG oil out of the new compressor and installed the identical amount of ester oil, about 13.5 ounces. 
Cleaned all couplings/threads with scotch brite and ester oil, hand tightened everything and then just snugged up couplings lightly with a wrench so as not to crush the new O-rings. 

Had a local A/C expert install 134a charge couplings on the hi and low sides and charge the system.
No leaks found (except condensor, had to replace it two weeks later) and 38 degrees F at the vents. Very surprised at how well it cools with 134a. Still working great after 8 months!

Knew nothing about A/C systems and found much help and info on this board, at the component vendors, and on-line. Hope this helps.  
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gpd294 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gpd294 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-January-2018 at 3:24AM
The
 
 
These were the Guys I went with and have been very happy with their products. NOTE: This kit was purchased back in 2013 so pricing may be different now.
 
 
Just a little info on my back and forth with them when I was asking questions as well:
 
 MESSAGE:
 
   My wagon came with factory A/C, but when I restored it the A/C
> components were not re-installed. My question is what are the pros and
> cons of installing factory components versus aftermarket newer
> components (example your parts)?
>
> Also is there a complete kit that can be retrofitted with minimal
> modification?
>
> I like the idea of new parts versus re-furbished old parts.
>
> I would be needing everything minus the interior under dash vent
> system.
>
> Parts needed:
> Compressor
> Evaporater
> Condensor
> Drier
> Expansion Valve
> Hoses
> Heater Core
> Hardware, Etc
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
 
RESPONSE:
 
Carlos, we have under hood upgrade packages for your vehicle with and 
expansion valve and heater core for $845.00, price includes shipping. 
Underhood packages consists of the following:

All new under the hood a/c system consisting of all parts needed for 
under the hood to attach to existing a/c evaporator assembly and 
compressor mounting bracket. Package consists of new Sanden compressor 
with clutch, compressor mounting hardware, complete hose kit with 
fittings, receiver drier, parallel flow condenser, instructions, and 
all hardware needed for under the hood. The underhood package brings 
your a/c system to a more efficient, quieter, and smoother running 
system and can be used with R134a or R12.
We also have OE replacement parts as follows:
New compressor  $285.00
clutch assembly  245.00
Condenser        285.00
drier            85.00
expansion valve  75.00
service valves    80.00
hose package    265.00
 
If we can be of any further assistance or if you wish to order please 
let us know. You are also welcome to call us toll free at 1-877-542-8192
or 940-549-0288.
J.W.

Carlos....1975 Gran Torino Squire Station Wagon restored to look like a 1973 Torino Station

Wagon my Dad bought new from McAnary Ford on June 6, 1973 in Gary,Indiana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sj_mr2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-January-2018 at 10:15AM
bring it to a dedicated a/c shop. If it were near me i'd hook it up to see if the system has any pressure. If not the easiest way to find leaks is to pressurize the system with nitrogen to atleast 200psi and soap test all the components to find the leak.
Clayton
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