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Bed Removal - 71 F-250

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GranTorinoSport View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19-April-2015 at 8:06AM
This question is directed toward folks who have bump-side or dent-side pickups or folks with experience in this area.

So as many of you know my 72 F-250 was hit by a drunk driver last year and wiped out the bed and LH rear suspension. I have procured nearly all of the parts (just have rear leaf springs to get still) and started removing the bed now that I hope to be home for a while.

As I expected, some of the 6 bed bolts were spinning in place. Meaning the square shoulder of the bolt was not being held in by the square hole anymore. [rust]

As such, I have 3 to get out still and no good way to do it. I have heard of people using cutting torches. I do not have one, nor do I have access to one. I can not drive the truck anywhere to get the work done (not drivable )

So, I am looking for some recommendations. For those not familiar with this setup, the issue is compounded by the fact that there is a C-channel on the bottom of the bed that the bolt also goes through and then it finally goes through the frame at the top of the farm C-Channel. Hence, there is no room for a sawzall, etc. 

Also, the bed and bolts are forfeit. I have a new bed and will get a new set of stainless bolts. 


Edited by GranTorinoSport - 19-April-2015 at 8:07AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2015 at 9:47AM
Do the bolts come thru the floor of the bed? If so, angle grinder to remove head, (Cross-cut an "X" down thru the head and split the parts off with a chisel)
or (if/since bed is junk), cut floor around bolt heads with angle grinder or sawzall, pull bed and then deal with bolts.
What is access like on the nuts? can you get a nut-splitter on them?
 (Yes, it sounds painful, someone is gonna say it! Big smile )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2015 at 11:09AM
The bolts do come through the floor of the bed and through a C-channel (open part facing up, welded to the bed floor underneath) and there is a smooth head you can see looking in the pickup bed.

Access to the nuts is ok but not optimum. I did try a nut splitter on it yesterday (I have a craftsman one from years ago). It did not work. The nut was just about as big as I could get the splitter onto it. 

I was thinking of getting an angle grinder (an air powered one from sears) to do this like you said. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2015 at 2:23PM
Do Ford beds from that era unbolt into sides, floor, tubs, etc. like a G.M.?
If so, that will make it lighter and may improve access. 
Could you get a grinder with a cutoff wheel near the nuts? Slice right thru the channel as well???
Harbor freight sells an electric 4" angle grinder fairly cheap. That may not be the best quality, but after you break it, they will give you another, and another, and another......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-April-2015 at 5:58PM
no the bed sides don't unbolt like the chevys. scott: use an angle grinder on the top of the heads grind with the edge of the wheel straight into the head of the bolt. also you might check with JT (kychevyguy) he has that spring arm linkage setup like you have on his truck, i think he is going with a different rear end set up on his truck FWIW

also: if you use a grinder--cover any nearby glass with a sheet,blanket,cardboard,etc to protect the glass!!!(the grinder sparks will melt into the glass) ask me how i know Confused


Edited by californiajohnny - 19-April-2015 at 6:05PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2015 at 1:29AM
I have had my '68 bed off a couple of times as well as parting 6 of these trucks. Only 2 came apart well. The others I had to take a grinder, "X" the bolt head, then hit it with a chisel. I was keeping all the beds, so doing it this way caused minimum damage. Because of the design, that is really the only way to do it besides a torch. Be sure that you get the head off all the way, since it will have to go through the bed support and if there is a small piece of the jagged head left, it will get jammed down in there and you will have a bigger issue (ask me how I know), LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2015 at 3:59AM
Awesome advice guys, thank you.

Now I just need to find a good grinder "cut off tool".

Didn't want to do Harbor Freight, I don't like to get tools from there I actually may want to use more than 2 or 3 times. I looked at Sears (most of my tools are Craftsman) but their cut off tool has a plastic shield which one reviewer said melts when you are grinding metal.

No offense to the HF guys - I do buy stuff from there, but I typically like to buy quality items that will last a long time if it is a tool I want to keep. In this instance, I am hoping to get a new tool in my air tool box that will be useful for other stuff in the future. I am a big Sears fan, but their offerings are not quite what they used to be.

On Amazon I found an Ingersoll Rand unit. Very nice, great reviews, great price. Only problem is it needs 6 cfm @ 90 psi. A guy with a 5HP air compressor said it would keep up with it, but I have far from a 5HP compressor. I have a 1.6HP compressor (a Craftsman Professional 2-stage 120V 25 gal unit) that I am afraid would not keep up. I looked at the Chicago Pneumatic unit as well which I think was similar in air requirements, maybe a little less.


Edited by GranTorinoSport - 20-April-2015 at 4:02AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2015 at 4:14AM
Scott, my laptop fried itself this past Friday, otherwise I would have seen this post earlier. Office is only choice right now.
I just took my bed off a few weeks ago and one bolt spun. I used my cheapo electric grinder and removed the head of the bolt. After I pulled the bed, I was able to go back and finish the bolt extraction. My 71 F100 is a long bed and it had 8 bolts. Are you sure you only have 6?
I do have the factory helper spring set up, and I'm 80% sure I will not be using it. I want rear disc brakes and I believe the cheapest way is to use an explorer rear end or an IRS set up from a thunderbird. But even if I keep my 9" rear and can rig discs on it, I don't think I will keep the helper spring set up. Shipping to you would be the only requirement. (Are you coming here for the Louisville meet?...)
Cell # 859-608-9791
 


Edited by kychevyguy - 20-April-2015 at 4:16AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2015 at 5:38AM
JT,

Thank you for the offer. I would be interested in them but yours are from a F-100? I have the 250 and would need the heavier springs. Also, you seem to have an extra set of springs on yours? Mine has the "5+1" setup.

You do have "Flex-O-Matic" setup I do. I did manage to get those parts, just not the springs (the attaching hardware is the same between 100 & 250).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2015 at 3:07PM
scott, i have two 4" makita angle grinders, the first one i bought from HF back about 20? years ago! still works great! something i do with all my electric tools---after i've used them some to break them in, then i carefully separate the case and pump in some "power punch" grease in the area where the gears are, then put it back together and they last damn near forever! of coarse i usually only buy makita electric power tools, but i did buy a HF electric buffer for buffing paint, and i have used it hard, and i'm very impressed with it!!! but the cutoff air tool, i broke my plastic one so i got an aluminum one from HF, and it seem pretty good so far! oh and the guard on those... do what everyone does--remove it (for better access) be careful Wink 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2015 at 2:26AM
JT, are you sure that is not an F250 frame with F150 axles? Perhaps an F250 spring setup?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2015 at 3:12AM
Joe, about the only thing I am sure of is that the IRS takes too much of my money while some big corporations do not pay enough. That, am I'm damn sexy looking.
 
The truck came from the Nevada highway dept out of Las Vegas. They were the original owner. Maybe the highway dept ordered special spring set up? I don't know. The title says F100. The vin # says F100. The emblems say F100. As I started stripping things off, this spring set up is what I found. Is yours different? I have seen on Fordification and FTE site other guys talking about the "helper spring" set up from the factory. The above image is what I thought they were talking about. When I had 3 buckets of moist mulch in the back one time, I did notice that she bearly even squatted at all. Things that make you go hmmm....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2015 at 2:02PM
they may be 1/2 ton springs with the over load added springs on top, so they normally ride on the lighter springs until you put weight in there then the frame comes down on the over loads to carry the added weight. i have a similar set up i added to my 1/2 ton chev C/10, it rides on the 1/2 ton coils... until i put extra weight in the back then it comes down on these really thick half of a leaf spring over loads Big smile (and they were factory from the truck i got the bed from, oh and the best part...FREE)Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2015 at 2:13PM
Or, maybe not the original springs. I've got extra leaves in the rear of both my trucks.
The above post should be read in a "Grumpy Old Man" voice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-April-2015 at 7:30AM
Originally posted by kychevyguy kychevyguy wrote:

 
My 71 F100 is a long bed and it had 8 bolts. Are you sure you only have 6?

I just went outside and counted only 6. There are an additional 3 smaller ones for the tool box on the passenger side. But only 6 main bed bolts.

Am I missing something???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-April-2015 at 8:43AM
Originally posted by GranTorinoSport GranTorinoSport wrote:

Originally posted by kychevyguy kychevyguy wrote:

 
My 71 F100 is a long bed and it had 8 bolts. Are you sure you only have 6?

I just went outside and counted only 6. There are an additional 3 smaller ones for the tool box on the passenger side. But only 6 main bed bolts.

Am I missing something???
 
Two bolts.
 
Seriously, I have eight bed bolts. I will measure them this weekend. I have two about 9" from the front, two in front of the diff, two behind the diff, and two about 6" from the tailgate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-April-2015 at 8:21PM
A little research has revealed the existence of both 6 bolt and 8 bolt beds.

I can't find any other information on the topic however. A logical first asumption would be 2x4 vs 4x4, but I don't think that is the case.

I need to go look at my replacement bed and see if it also has 6 bolts. If it has 8, I may have a problem on my hands.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2015 at 1:56AM
" If it has 8, I may have a problem on my hands. "

you may need to purchase a drill along with that grinder! Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2015 at 2:29AM
This makes sense. When I looked at JT's frame, I was wondering about the additional crossmembers (which is why I was wandering about it being an F250 frame). 8 bolt bed. My 1968 is a 6 bolt bed, and while I know it is a short bed, I have parted several long beds with frames different from JT's. Perhaps another one of Ford's cruel jokes and different options/plants?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2015 at 2:59AM
Things that make you go hmmmmm. Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2015 at 7:32AM
So I went out and looked at the replacement bed I have. It is also a 6-bolt bed. 

At least for my immediate needs there will be no issue.

But I am still curious about the 8-bolt beds.

Also, in addition to the 6 bed bolts, are there any other bolts I need to remove for the bed to come off? I am leaving the tool box in, and the aux fuel tank is already completely removed. I also have removed the wiring.


Edited by GranTorinoSport - 24-April-2015 at 7:32AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-April-2015 at 1:08PM
the wiring should have a connector plug by the rear crossmember. fuel filler neck. that should be it!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2015 at 4:30AM
That's pretty much it. The bed is not too heavy either. I was able to slide mine onto my homemade wooden "truss cart" by myself. I just had to remove the rear tires and it slid right off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2015 at 4:52AM
Update:

So I purchased a cut off tool (went with an Ingersoll Rand model off Amazon, $54). Got the compressor out and started cutting the bolt head.

After an hour of cutting (really about 15 minutes of cutting, with air compressor recharge time), I got it out.

I had to cut the head into sections, cut a section out of the bed, then pull the bolt up and keep cutting on the square shank of the bolt.

It did work. The IR Cut Off Tool is very, very nice and not too loud. It is super air hungry though.

My 25 gal 1.6HP electric (dual stage) Craftsman Professional compressor could not even begin to keep up with it. I would cut for a minute or two, then I was taking a break to let it recharge.

I got 1 of the 3 bolts out. I started cutting into the head of the 2nd, but rain came and it shut the project down (it was late in the afternoon anyway, had a really late start as I was completing an essay paper for my Air Command and Staff College course).

The two remaining bolts are in the front of the bed, so access will be a little more difficult, but the same methodology will work.

Other than that, I have all the other stuff unhooked!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2015 at 4:54AM
...and the rear bumper. You will strain and curse like never before trying to clear the wheels and rear bumper sliding it off by yourself. While relatively light, the lower portions will snag every conceivable object they can.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-April-2015 at 5:41AM
Rear bumper is off, that was destroyed by the drunk driver.

I had been considering the 4x8 trailer from HF as a trailer to haul this off, and later on haul a frame and a body to be dipped (Laura's 73 Sport when we start doing a frame-off on it).

Just take the bed, load it onto the trailer and be done with it.

After we get the aux tank holes cut, that is...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-October-2015 at 9:34AM
Scott, Any updates? I still have those overload springs that I wont be using. I also have the complete twin I beam front end with the factory power steering box free to good home...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67gt5003119 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-October-2015 at 9:54AM
Is that power steering box for only 2wd?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-October-2015 at 10:33AM
Originally posted by 67gt5003119 67gt5003119 wrote:

Is that power steering box for only 2wd?
 
I don't know if Ford used the same box for the 4wd trucks...somebody on here should know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-October-2015 at 11:47AM
Originally posted by kychevyguy kychevyguy wrote:

I don't know if Ford used the same box for the 4wd trucks...somebody on here should know.
Yes, they both use the same box.
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