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Boat engine?

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NorthElite View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11-March-2016 at 5:17AM
I copied this one here from my project thread. Maybe this can be better under Small Block Forum Wink

My engine is 351W and car is 1976. So I was thinking that my engine is also 1976 engine.



Block casting number is D4AE-6015-AA3 and I think that it is from 1974



Head casting number is 8E24 OR BE24 and it is 1968?



There is also this stamped number.



I was confusing with all these numbers, and then I read this label from valve cover.



Model number 584APRMED. Google found this one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/OMC/SternDrive/1989/584APRMED/parts.html

I think this engine is OMC Cobra Sterndrive boat engine from year 1989. What I have found from google this 1989 engines are rated 260-285 horse power engines. Optimized Low and middle range.

Is it HO version or not. I don't know it. Heads intake looks like this...



Do anyone know more about these boat engines? What is this? Is this good or bad thing?




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kychevyguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2016 at 5:24AM
Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2016 at 6:33AM
If it is indeed a marine engine, that is a very good thing. Marine engines are typically built with continuous higher rpm operation in mind, and may have forged internals. Camshaft profile may not be optimum for a street car, but that is easily changed. Basically, marine engines have better performance parts in them than production street factory engines, as they are built for durability under high rpm operation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NorthElite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2016 at 7:31AM
Originally posted by unlovedford unlovedford wrote:

If it is indeed a marine engine, that is a very good thing. Marine engines are typically built with continuous higher rpm operation in mind, and may have forged internals. Camshaft profile may not be optimum for a street car, but that is easily changed. Basically, marine engines have better performance parts in them than production street factory engines, as they are built for durability under high rpm operation.


I can easily change the Camshaft at this point now in my project. I like low end torque and fast response from engine. I also like it run nice. My car is not going to be a race car... Can You recommend me some camshaft to this engine, to drive it on the streets and roads? Edelbrock performer camshaft?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranchero Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2016 at 12:14PM
I don't have any data on the numbers, but I do recommend that it was for sure a marine eng & somebody didn't just use valve covers from one, make sure the coolant passages are clear of rust and scale. Especially if it was run in salt water. I swapped a '69 351windsor into my '67 Mustang back in the day, & she was quite healthy. I can't remember the cam I used.
Brian   1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote antlerfiend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-March-2016 at 2:27PM
If you want low end torque and quick response. Don't change the camshaft. These engines have cams that are designed for that. They are made to get the boat on plane quickly. I just don't know what the upper end of the RPM range will be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2016 at 12:05AM
The normal marine cams do provide the low end grunt. The rods, and other internals are made for the ability to run for extended periods at high rpm. Just good stuff. I had a Sea Ray with the 4.3. Block froze, so we swapped everything into another block. Basically race parts inside. Like mentioned, check for any rust buildup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2016 at 6:19AM
D4xx casting doesn't necessarily mean that it's from the 1974 model year production, it's just not from before 1974. you'd need to find the actual engine assy date stamped in by hand to know, and it may be coded also like Ford does?
 
D4xx is when that casting was modeled & may have been used for several or more years afterwards


Edited by Rockatansky - 12-March-2016 at 6:19AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NorthElite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2016 at 7:36AM
At this point I'm sure that this engine is OMC boat engine. Block was painted with same color what OMC is used. But anyway, this looks good to me. I can live with that engine.

I found some spec. Idle speed 600-650 rpm and full throttle range is 4000-4400 rpm. 



Edited by NorthElite - 12-March-2016 at 7:37AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2016 at 8:27AM
what's the budget for a cam & related items?
 
do you have a supplier near you that can provide the cam & parts for the 351W ?
 
you should be aware that there's a little more to the job than just slipping in the cam & calling it Thumbs Up
 
usually you'll need valve springs, retainers, locks, shims for a complete install ... and that's after the heads have been gone through to repair the valve guides & restore the seats for a fresh service life
 
now the Cry news, stock Ford valves are Dead, do yourself a favor & replace them with quality 1 piece stainless steel valves. don't let this happen to you!
 
 
also, replace the connecting rod nuts with ARP. the stock nuts fracture in the threads and the result is always blamed on the rod bolt itself which is not the case. after the motor thrashes itself to bits in the oil pan the connecting rod bolt gets the blame when it's actually the threads in the nut that failed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NorthElite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2016 at 6:38AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

what's the budget for a cam & related items?
 
do you have a supplier near you that can provide the cam & parts for the 351W ?
 
you should be aware that there's a little more to the job than just slipping in the cam & calling it Thumbs Up
 
usually you'll need valve springs, retainers, locks, shims for a complete install ... and that's after the heads have been gone through to repair the valve guides & restore the seats for a fresh service life
...
 
also, replace the connecting rod nuts with ARP. the stock nuts fracture in the threads and the result is always blamed on the rod bolt itself which is not the case. after the motor thrashes itself to bits in the oil pan the connecting rod bolt gets the blame when it's actually the threads in the nut that failed


Thank You. I have drive that engine one summer few years ago. It was working OK.

I have more than enough with all body work LOL At this point I don't like to spend more time to my engine. It's good enough now Smile ...I need to hold my horses with engine. Except I only paint it and some new parts on Wink

New pars are not a problem and here is also very good metal-shops. Maybe good aftermarket head can be cheaper and more flow heads anyway... Well I have time to thing all that. One point what makes me nervous is camshaft Run-In procedure Embarrassed



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2016 at 8:25AM
cam break-in is not as hard as it sounds... you can start and run it for 10-20 seconds just to make carb or timing adjustments if needed, when you think everything is good to go start it and bring it up to a fast idle at 2,000 RPMs for 20 minutes, then shut it off, let it cool for an hour or whatever and recheck and retune or readjust anything and you should be fine, just use regular oil ---no additives or synthetics! i've always done all my engines that way and i've never lost a camshaft yet Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2016 at 12:51PM
8E24  May 24, 1978
  8 = year 1978
  E = month May (no I used)
24 = day 24

http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html


Edited by lynchster - 13-March-2016 at 12:55PM
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