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Boxing rear control arms

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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07-December-2013 at 11:32AM
OK guys, with the rear suspension out and everything broke down, I'm going to box my lower control arms. A few questions to those who have boxed theirs.....
 
1. Do I need to weld braces down into the channel portion tieing the two side together prior to capping the arm?
 
2. Should the cap wrap around the ends of the arm to totally enclose the LCA?
 
3. With the LCA boxed will changing the bushings be easier or more difficult to change?
 
4. Any other areas I need to keep an eye on while welding?
 
Thanks in advance for the info..........

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2013 at 2:09PM
Joe,I have not yet boxed mine. I have everything ready to weld them. I have cut some pieces of angle iron that will fit inside the channels, I figure 3 or 4 per arm.  I purchased some sheet steel and had them cut it into strips that will be welded to the arms. My plan is to tack the strips working from center towards the bushing ends, heat the strips and wrap the ends tack Welding as I wrap.Finishing it up by welding it solid. I chose steel the same gauge as the arms. I also plan to leave a drain hole on end of each arm. I've had everything ready for a while....I think you inspired me to get my ars in gear!Smile I'll post up pix when I weld them up.
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SeattleJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2013 at 3:31PM
You might consider these...

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1972-1976-Ford-Torino-Ranchero/Suspension/Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-Adjustable-with-Del-Sphere-Pivot-Joints-1972-1976-Ford-Torino-Ranchero.html

For the money you will spend doing yours you can have adjustability and they look cool too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SeattleJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2013 at 3:38PM
They also make the upper control arms too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2013 at 5:18PM
i'm thinking of boxing mine as well, i should have done that when i was replacing all the bushings, but all i was thinking about was getting the new bushings in and getting the car back together. not that it would be hard to take off the arms and do it since i just had it all apart. i also thought about boxing the front lower arms, they just seem to be flimsey for that heavy of a car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-December-2013 at 5:40AM
If you want the ultimate in suspension, the Spohn parts are the way to go. The unboxed arms and rubber suspension bushings in the stock suspension allow enough flex in the suspension to help prevent the 4 link suspension bind. The Spohn parts will stiffen the rear end up while still allowing proper articulation without bind. They are expensive but the best choice for maximum handling.

For my car, I wanted to keep a stock look. I am running poly bushings in the rear with stock arms. I was going to box the rear lower control arms, but decided against it. With the stiffer than stock suspension bushings, at least the stock lower arms can flex a bit to prevent suspension bind. If you stiffen the arms and the bushings, you might experience suspension bind and snap oversteer. Further, a worst case scenario can actually break parts.

In any case, I know other's have boxed the lower arms, so I am sure there is differing opinions on this. This is just my opinion.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SeattleJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-December-2013 at 10:51AM
Originally posted by 72FordGTS 72FordGTS wrote:

If you want the ultimate in suspension, the Spohn parts are the way to go. The unboxed arms and rubber suspension bushings in the stock suspension allow enough flex in the suspension to help prevent the 4 link suspension bind. The Spohn parts will stiffen the rear end up while still allowing proper articulation without bind. They are expensive but the best choice for maximum handling.

For my car, I wanted to keep a stock look. I am running poly bushings in the rear with stock arms. I was going to box the rear lower control arms, but decided against it. With the stiffer than stock suspension bushings, at least the stock lower arms can flex a bit to prevent suspension bind. If you stiffen the arms and the bushings, you might experience suspension bind and snap oversteer. Further, a worst case scenario can actually break parts.

In any case, I know other's have boxed the lower arms, so I am sure there is differing opinions on this. This is just my opinion.



My thought exactly on this topic. Another big plus on the aftermarket is the adjustability of pinion angle for other than stock ride height. Really depends on application and what your end goal is.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-December-2013 at 3:58PM
I have no track/test experience with it making a difference for worse or better and I doubt anyone else does. My thoughts only come from theory of what the suspension is designed to do and multiple simulations I ran on the rear lower arms.

The key points on boxing the rear lower arms:

-doesn't help make them any stronger in tension

-helps a little with compression due to buckling but if the limit is reached to induce failure due to buckling then at that point there are bigger problems and something else will most likely fail first

-the torsional rigidity is way higher but that is actually counter productive to what the arms are designed to do


If the urge to weld and make a nice new custom creation for your torino is just too powerful then I suggest buying some 4130 tube, tube end weld nuts, and rod ends. Would cost less than $125 shipped. I ran the calcs and spohn seemed to get it right with their tube size so just look at that. Although I strongly encourage buying products from the companies who are willing to make them for our cars, this is a fairly easy project to do right in the garage for cheap. If not, I would just keep them un-welded and put either the rubber or poly bushings in there. The bushings will probably last longer than the rodends as well.

If you want to do research on this stuff before you make any moves check out what the the mustang guys do. The fox body and late models have a triangulated 4 link and the same problems the 72+ torino's do. Obviously lots of other cars have the triangulated 4 link too.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-December-2013 at 10:21PM

Thanks Billy for the insite! Really I'm just building a cruiser ao I actually don't need anything "race-worthy" so it's probably best to just leave them stock. That's time & money I could spend on other areas of the build! Thumbs Up


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-December-2013 at 9:45AM
Boxing the lower control arms do stiffen the rear of the car while driving. I have noticed nothing "wrong" about the ride feel since I boxed mine, but then again there was 3 years of project between the non-boxed time and  the time I got the car back on the road again, so it´s difficult to compare. With boxed arms, poly bushings and added rear sway bar the ride feel is good to me, I wouldn´t change it back,  but some probably wouldn´t like it because you loose the softness/comfort of the original setup. But they work on the street, my car is no race car.

Boxing the arms makes it easier to change the bushings, the arm does not collapse when you press the bushing out.

Here´s a couple of pics. You can see the strip I welded does not wrap the ends of the arms.
(I boxed my control arms with very little knowledge beforehand, so some might argue it´s done exactly right.)





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2013 at 8:33AM
Nice! that looks like exactly what I would do if I was doing it.
Thanks for posting some pictures.

Yes, I was going to mention the easier bushing install.

It seems like the arb and new bushings would make the biggest difference. An arb can really change dynamics. 


Edited by Billy C - 16-December-2013 at 8:33AM
-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2013 at 9:33AM
Yes, new bushings make a noticeable difference.  One thing thats important, is lubing the poly bushings at installation.
A guy from my work gave me grease that he told was something they use on ships, marine grease, I used it to lube the poly control arm bushings. When I boxed the lower control arms, it was easy to press lubed bushings out, and after welding they just slid back in. Good stuff, stays in there, and there is no binding or squeaks. Copper grease on bolt threads.



Edited by SininenIII - 16-December-2013 at 9:41AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2013 at 12:40PM
I LIKE THE LOOKS OF THAT AND EASIER BUSHING INSTALL! I'M IN.... BOXING TO COME! Clap

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2013 at 7:32AM

For those with stock control arms, I used a socket in open part of the arm when I pressed the new bushings in.  It worked fine, didn't damage the powdercoat. 

Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2013 at 8:41AM
An easier bushing install isn't really a good reason to box them. There are certainly ways to keep them open when pressing bushings in.

I still wouldn't do it on my build for the pure reason it probably doesn't do anything other than add weight.

Joe, maybe you should prove me wrong. Put them in stock with poly bushings, drive it a bit. Then box em. As long as that's the only thing you change you should have a pretty good idea what effect it has.
Or, since you are pretty close to me, box the ones you have and I will send you a stock set with poly bushings and you can play around with both. In the name of SCIENCE!!! Geek

Like I said, I'm going a completely different direction, so I will have no use for mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2013 at 9:28AM
Billy,
 
I may take you up on the offer.... IN THE NAME OF SCIENCE! LOL
 
When I'm ready to take the Tomato to the road, I'll let you know and we can work out the details at that point. Thumbs Up
 
THANKS MAN

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2013 at 5:52PM
joe, i just boxed one of my arms, only spent about a half hour maybe 45 mins total, i'll do the other side tomorrow. if the weather stay good, i'll take it for a short drive this weekend to see if there is any noticeable difference. i'll let you know.
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2013 at 10:26PM
John,
 
SWEET.... I'll look forward to your driving report! Thumbs Up

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2013 at 11:49PM
I have driven my Ranchero about 5K miles since I boxed the rear control arms, I have seen absolutely no ill effects of doing this. The rear doesn't jump around, have wheel hop or a "binding" feeling when loading or unloading the suspension. I test them with the GO pedal every time I drive it . I fail to see the difference between boxing these arms and installing the aftermarket solid aluminum arms(the aluminum arms are obviously better constructed). Some will argue the factory installed the weak-ass lower arms to aid/allow/help with suspension articulation , sounds more like a factory bean counter move to build them like they did. Good luck, Todd   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robot9000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 11:31AM
But did you feel any difference ?  Did you feel it handled better and if so, how?

Personally, I think springs and bushings and shocks far outweigh any advantage of boxing your LCA's.  You are talking a 2 ton 70's era family car, not a BMW M3.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 11:31AM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

I fail to see the difference between boxing these arms and installing the aftermarket solid aluminum arms(the aluminum arms are obviously better constructed).Todd  
Probably no difference at all. 

In-fact "Metco" doesn't even claim on their site the aluminum arms are better in any way. Ya, maybe they are "stronger" but that doesn't always mean "better". I could just make a solid 2x4" piece of steel for my arms but is that going to be "better"? Probably stronger for sure.  There could be some weight savings with the aluminum but no problems are really solved.

Some basic things to note.

Fatigue properties on aluminum are way different than steel. For long term durability in an unload/load situation, steel generally does much better.
Most production cars now have many aluminum linkages, those are a result of entire teams of engineers going through all the necessary calculations, simulations, and tests before actual production. 
Steel is easy for design because fatigue becomes less of a factor (although still important)

that brings me to the next part..
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Some will argue the factory installed the weak-ass lower arms to aid/allow/help with suspension articulation , sounds more like a factory bean counter move to build them like they did. Good luck, Todd   
The automotive industry is built on bean counting. That's what makes a McLaren a McLaren and BMW a BMW.  Sure, some companies need to skimp in some areas. I see that. That's also what makes tuning and hot-rodding fun. Eliminating one weak link at a time. Ha, by the time I'm done with my Torino I could have gone out and bought a new mustang or bmw. That's not really what this is about.

What I am trying to get at is the weakest link in the Torino isn't the rear lower control arms. I am going to post a quote by Carl in response to another thread a while back that I stand by 99.9% when it comes to improvements.
Originally posted by Carl Carl wrote:

Okay, here's my opinion....again.  You're overthinking it.

#1 tires
#2 driver retention/seating
#3 sway bars
#4 bushings
#5 chassis stiffness
#6 shocks

The stock geometry needs NO alteration.  

Take a look at the video below.  You'll notice that I caught and passed an RX8 as well as a BMW.  I also caught and passed a 2013 Mustang GT that day, and had a Factory Five cobra spin out behind me trying to hold my line.  See the G meter....almost 1G on some of the corners.  Cut coils in the front, clamped coils in the rear, poly graphite bushings and PST sway bars, street stock / circle track shocks, 17" alum wheels with 255/50R17 street radials.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvFn-eCb4oU

And another video...extended periods of time at 100-120mph without any vibrations, also ran 132 mph with no issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHr59VAGYns

I don't know what you plan to do with your car, but you've got to get it out on whatever kind of track you're going to run before you know what needs to be improved.  In my case it turned out to be slop in the steering system and aerodynamics.
In your case your track is the street.Evil Smile 
Until we have proof that the lower control arms being boxed is better an any way, all that's being done for sure is more half-sprung weight is added and the crystalline structure of the formed steel is altered because of the heat.

the .1%: I probably over think things too but I have a BLASTTTT doing it so whatever. I choose parts that are fun to make and a challenge for me to design and get right. That's maybe just me though. That's why I made the suggestion on the adjustable links.

Another thing to note about the Metco product. I support any company making products for our cars unless they do something super f***ed up. I am not arguing with any claims they seem to be making. I'm hope their design is sturdy and well done although I have no direct intention of finding out for myself.Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 12:21PM
Originally posted by Billy C Billy C wrote:

Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

I fail to see the difference between boxing these arms and installing the aftermarket solid aluminum arms(the aluminum arms are obviously better constructed).Todd  
Probably no difference at all. 

In-fact "Metco" doesn't even claim on their site the aluminum arms are better in any way. Ya, maybe they are "stronger" but that doesn't always mean "better". I could just make a solid 2x4" piece of steel for my arms but is that going to be "better"? Probably stronger for sure.  There could be some weight savings with the aluminum but no problems are really solved.

Some basic things to note.

Fatigue properties on aluminum are way different than steel. <span style="line-height: 1.4;">For long term durability in an unload/load situation, steel generally does much better.</span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">Most production cars now have many aluminum linkages, those are a result of entire teams of engineers going through all the necessary </span>calculations<span style="line-height: 1.4;">, simulations, and tests before actual production.</span><span style="line-height: 1.4;"> </span>
Steel is easy for design because fatigue becomes less of a factor (although still important)

that brings me to the next part..
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Some will argue the factory installed the weak-ass lower arms to aid/allow/help with suspension articulation , sounds more like a factory bean counter move to build them like they did. Good luck, Todd   
The automotive industry is built on bean counting. That's what makes a McLaren a McLaren and BMW a BMW.  <span style="line-height: 1.4;">Sure, some companies need to skimp in some areas. I see that. That's also what makes tuning and hot-rodding fun. Eliminating one weak link at a time. Ha, by the time I'm done with my Torino I could have gone out and bought a new mustang or bmw. That's not really what this is about.</span>

What I am trying to get at is the weakest link in the Torino isn't the rear lower control arms. I am going to post a quote by Carl in response to another thread a while back that I stand by 99.9% when it comes to improvements.
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">
Originally posted by Carl Carl wrote:

</span>
Okay, here's my opinion....again.  You're overthinking it.

#1 tires
#2 driver retention/seating
#3 sway bars
#4 bushings
#5 chassis stiffness
#6 shocks

The stock geometry needs NO alteration.  

Take a look at the video below.  You'll notice that I caught and passed an RX8 as well as a BMW.  I also caught and passed a 2013 Mustang GT that day, and had a Factory Five cobra spin out behind me trying to hold my line.  See the G meter....almost 1G on some of the corners.  Cut coils in the front, clamped coils in the rear, poly graphite bushings and PST sway bars, street stock / circle track shocks, 17" alum wheels with 255/50R17 street radials.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvFn-eCb4oU

And another video...extended periods of time at 100-120mph without any vibrations, also ran 132 mph with no issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHr59VAGYns

I don't know what you plan to do with your car, but you've got to get it out on whatever kind of track you're going to run before you know what needs to be improved.  In my case it turned out to be slop in the steering system and aerodynamics.
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">In your case your track is the street.</span>Evil Smile<span style="line-height: 1.4;"> </span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">Until we have proof that the lower control arms being boxed is better an any way, all that's being done for sure is more half-sprung weight is added and the </span>crystalline<span style="line-height: 1.4;"> structure of the formed steel is altered because of the heat.</span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">
</span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">the .1%: I probably over think things too but I have a BLASTTTT doing it so whatever. I choose parts that are fun to make and a challenge for me to design and get right. That's maybe just me though. That's why I made the suggestion on the adjustable links.</span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">
</span>
<span style="line-height: 1.4;">Another thing to note about the Metco product. I support any company making products for our cars unless they do something </span>super<span style="line-height: 1.4;"> f***ed up. I am not arguing with any claims they seem to be making. I'm hope their design is sturdy and well done although I have no direct intention of finding out for myself.Thumbs Up</span>


Bill, I see your points. I will probably never test the lower arms to their failure point or positively know that boxing the lower arms improves G-force levels or aids/hinders rear suspension articulation. I boxed the lower arms before getting my ride back on the street after 20 years of hibernation so I cannot give accurate "seat of the pants" feel difference of the before and after. I will however say the arms in factory form will somewhat deform when you try to install new bushings, with them boxed this is greatly reduced if not eliminated. I'm not here to argue, I don't have the facts to back up the advantages or disadvantages of boxing the lower arms, but common sense tells me it has made an improvement. The "In your case your track is the street" " comment was uncalled for or maybe I just read it wrong, please clarify. I don't race on the street, decent acceleration on an open road yes, but not racing. I would also like to see some actual proof where boxing the lower control arms is detrimental to our rides. Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 1:04PM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Originally posted by Billy C Billy C wrote:

Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:


Bill, I see your points. I will probably never test the lower arms to their failure point or positively know that boxing the lower arms improves G-force levels or aids/hinders rear suspension articulation. I boxed the lower arms before getting my ride back on the street after 20 years of hibernation so I cannot give accurate "seat of the pants" feel difference of the before and after. I will however say the arms in factory form will somewhat deform when you try to install new bushings, with them boxed this is greatly reduced if not eliminated. I'm not here to argue, I don't have the facts to back up the advantages or disadvantages of boxing the lower arms, but common sense tells me it has made an improvement. The "In your case your track is the street" " comment was uncalled for or maybe I just read it wrong, please clarify. I don't race on the street, decent acceleration on an open road yes, but not racing. I would also like to see some actual proof where boxing the lower control arms is detrimental to our rides. Todd

Todd,

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to argue at all. 

As referring to Carls quote about driving in an specific environment where his happens to be the track and ours happens to be the street. I have had no track time in my car at all but performance is still a common goal. I wasn't trying to imply anything thing about street "racing" or being deliberately unlawful in any way. That was a total joke referring to the fact the the stop light burnout, on-ramp acceleration run, or empty parking lot shuffle is to be expected. All I am encouraging is that in whatever driving environment it is to drive drive drive and see where the weaknesses are.

I don't have any proof at all either way. I love it when everyone is as excited to try hot rodding stuff as much as I am. I am just putting information out there that I have taken the time to come up with, via research or whatever, hoping that in the interest of all the people now following this thread that this boxing control arm thing can be solidified a little more. I know people are always going have different opinions about stuff.

Sorry once again, I hope there is no harm done. 

I was thinking of starting a "poly vs rubber radius rod bushings" thread but now I'm not so sure. Ouch  Just kidding... LOL


Edited by Billy C - 19-December-2013 at 1:07PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 1:22PM
Bill,
No harm whatsoever. I hope I didn't sound like a d#$%, I respect your views and recommendations, as well as others on this forum. It's the "hotrodder" in all of us that pushes us to try new things, sometimes they work out, then other times it ends up being a clusterf*$% . I just recently took a looksee at your '72 GTS project(can't believe I missed looking at it sooner) nice work in deed, especially on the lower control arms . Bill, Thank you for clearing things up, much appreciated. Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2013 at 4:22PM
I think I need to buy a set of Sphon arms for Andy (Eliteman76), and have him perform an official GranTorinoSport.org field test of the arms to see if they:

1.  Perform in hard street driving

2.  Provide any objectionable feedback through the suspension in either normal or performance driving

3.  Cause andy other noted issues in all driving types and conditions (wet road, hard stop/swerves in heavy traffic, etc).

I don't know anyone else that can hammer a car in performance driving like Andy. He's the man when it comes to that, and he knows so much about the model that it makes a perfect combination. 

Myself, I would just throw the Sphon arms on and be done with it, and if it becomes objectionable (I don't drive hard at all), then I would complain profusely about them and replace them.

I think the idea of poly bushings and boxed rear lower arms needs to be separated, in that it is possible one has good benefits and the other not. In other words it would be beneficial to perform one mod, test, then undo and perform the other mod, test, and then perform both and test. 

** Of course I talk about this like it is Boeing and I have a half million dollars to perform a complete test program on to make a definitive determination **


Edited by GranTorinoSport - 19-December-2013 at 4:23PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-December-2013 at 3:59AM
I already posted my opinion on the lower arms. I can say I went from a completely stock setup to poly bushings with open arms in a short time. I also increased the spring rate slightly. It made a huge difference in stiffening up the rear end. For me with the rough roads I drive on, I wouldn't want it any stiffer.

I knew there would be differing opinions on this. In the end, I am sure for the average street driver, I don't think there would be a massive difference between boxing and stock arms.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-December-2013 at 8:00AM
joe, i just took the torino out for a drive: boxing did appear to firm up the rear of the car, in regards to side sway, body roll appeared to be less as well. did a full on rolling burnout (slight 1/2 throttle bog in the carb) no wheel hop or side shake! summary: imo- worth a few minutes of time and a few dollars in materials, as far as adding weight- maybe 1 or 2 lbs.
 now for the disclaimer: actual results may vary,these tests were done by a professional driver! please do not try this at home (do it in front of your neighbors house, not at home LOL)

JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-December-2013 at 7:26AM
Thanks Johnny,
 
Plan on doing mine as well... did you completely wrap the ends or just the open bottom??


Edited by TV 2M8O - 22-December-2013 at 7:26AM

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-December-2013 at 7:41AM
about 1" inch past flat, didn't see any point wrapping any further other than it would look nicer if you were going for full on show detail. check second pic down on my build thread you can kinda see (page 3, john's 74 s&h  build thread)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-March-2014 at 2:55PM
Here's what my control arms look like after boxing/pressing bushing sleeves.I took a lot of pix when doing this, I think I'll post in the how to section.
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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