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Billy C View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brake line front left
    Posted: 07-October-2012 at 11:28AM
So I am redoing all the brake lines because I am super picky about stuff and I don't like the way some of them are routed. When I redid the car 2 years ago I just did everything like factory.
I particularly dislike the front drivers side brake line. It normally runs right around that upper control arm really close to moving parts and REALLY close to the big block hooker headers I have in the car. I would like to route it a different way. Any ideas??
-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-October-2012 at 12:06PM
I had the same view as far as the brake line being too close to header tube #3, I fabbed up a heat shield out of 24ga galv. sheetmetal that is as wide as the upper control arm and it is attached to the engine crossmember, it very effectively shields the header's heat from the brake line. Todd
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-October-2012 at 2:59PM
Thanks. Ya, I was thinking I might have to get creative. 
Man those headers on that driver's side seem to be scary close to EVERYTHING.  I mean within 1/8 in from the PS box and 1/16 from the UCA rear most pivot point... That normal for you guys with the same setup??
-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-October-2012 at 4:32PM
This is how I routed the brake lines on both sides (pic taken April 2008):
Aatu
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 1:03AM
Originally posted by Billy C Billy C wrote:

Thanks. Ya, I was thinking I might have to get creative. 
Man those headers on that driver's side seem to be scary close to EVERYTHING.  I mean within 1/8 in from the PS box and 1/16 from the UCA rear most pivot point... That normal for you guys with the same setup??
 
Yes those Hooker 6126's are really close to alot of parts. The idler arm, pitman arm, driver's side UCA, PS box and also my C6 pan on the DS. I had to clearance things here and there and make heat shields where needed, like for my A/C box and DS brake line as previously mentioned. I had my headers coated(supposed to help a bit) to hopefully reduce some of their radiated heat from cooking the parts that are oh so close. Todd
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 3:53AM

Yes, they are all like that. 

In both my 78 and my old 77, the headers self clearanced on the idler arm and UCA pivot point.


Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 5:32AM
Do exhaust manifolds really flow that badly in comparison to headers? All of this talk of headers being so close to stuff makes me a weary of getting headers...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 6:54AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:


Yes, they are all like that. 

In both my 78 and my old 77, the headers self clearanced on the idler arm and UCA pivot point.


 
Self clearanced...You mean just like the Mark VIII fan did Wink.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 6:58AM
Spent exhaust gas trying to get out of my 429 manifolds is like forcing a Greyhound down a straw.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 7:02AM
Originally posted by GranTorinoSport GranTorinoSport wrote:

Do exhaust manifolds really flow that badly in comparison to headers? All of this talk of headers being so close to stuff makes me a weary of getting headers...
 
From what I have heard/read headers can/will give quite a bit of a HP/Tq gain( no specific info regarding the 6126's vs manifolds though), spending time porting the heads and port matching the intake to heads would have been for nothing if I re-installed the factory manifolds. In all reality these Hooker 6126's fit really well for all they have to do with what room is available. Todd
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 7:11AM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:


Self clearanced...You mean just like the Mark VIII fan did Wink.

If it doesn't fit, it will. LOL
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 7:36AM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:


Self clearanced...You mean just like the Mark VIII fan did Wink.

If it doesn't fit, it will. LOL
 
Sorry, I just couldn't resist Big smile. Paul, as always, everything I've seen of your work looks top-notch. Keep up the good work.
  It seems that whenever I try to force things to fit together I get rewarded with not only broken car parts but sometimes broken human parts as well Ouch. Todd
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 8:35AM
i'm looking at my brake lines a little cross-ways, my front left line looks like it's Daring me to step on the brake pedal! i'm diggin on the copper, looks like i'm gonna need a quality double flare tool & some tube nuts
 
FPA shows a shorty header for 429/460 in the Ranchero section that doesn't appear in the Torino section http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm
 
i know shorties aren't as good as long tubes but they are better than cast iron logs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 10:22AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

i'm looking at my brake lines a little cross-ways, my front left line looks like it's Daring me to step on the brake pedal! i'm diggin on the copper, looks like i'm gonna need a quality double flare tool & some tube nuts
 
FPA shows a shorty header for 429/460 in the Ranchero section that doesn't appear in the Torino section http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm
 
i know shorties aren't as good as long tubes but they are better than cast iron logs
 
Rock, you say you need a quality double flaring tool? I bought one from Eastwood when I tried and failed several times to do some double flares with the regular flaring tools when I re-did the brakes on my ride. I purchased this                                                                                              
and let me tell you it's worth every penny, I actually look forward to flaring lines now. 
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 11:46AM
THAT is a very cool tool!
PLEASE, Post the link to that in our Tools/Shop Equipment thread!


Edited by Regul8r - 10-October-2012 at 12:29PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 1:13PM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

                                                                                     
I actually look forward to flaring lines now. 

Ha ha ha. That's awesome. I want one...

Anyways.. Yaaa... looked at the situation again and I say screw the stock locations for the brake lines on both sides.  The pass side is dumb too. Clearly the big block torino's never came stock with long tube headers or else any engineer with half a brain would be like "I think we should keep the brake line more than 1/8 inch away from the 1,000* exhaust tubing."  I will take some pictures after I am done.
-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2012 at 1:50PM
Here's a link to the Eastwood website, www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html where I purchased the flaring tool from. Sorry to be ignorant on not knowing where to find the Tools/Shop equipment thread. It was a little pricey considering the cheaper flaring sets out there, but damn it works excellent. It does single, double and metric bubble flares in 3/16-3/8" tubing. Todd

Edited by aquartlow - 10-October-2012 at 1:53PM
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2012 at 5:45AM
that's the advice i always give, buy quality, buy it only once & save $... but i have the hardest time following my own advice. and Eastwood is pretty Proud of their stuff for sure, your endorsment will carry some weight when i make a decision. with something as important as brake lines it's not a place to buy harbor freight or ace hardware ice cube maker flare tools
 
shoulda been ready for that, on sale now Only $219.99 Shocked 
 
did SininenIII ever do a right-up on the brake line job?


Edited by Rockatansky - 11-October-2012 at 5:49AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grumpy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2012 at 12:20PM
I looked hard at the Eastwood tool but ended up with the Mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool kit.  The added features that allow fuel line push connect for Ford and GM.  Ended up less than $300 from a place called Tooldiscounter.  Used it a few times and am very happy.  As said before "But quality and buy it once"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2012 at 1:48PM
Max,your not using copper for your brake lines are you?Thumbs Down.man you gotta flare alot of lines to pay for that tool.! I guess I've had to much practice on my old snap-on double flare tool.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2012 at 8:39PM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

 
did SininenIII ever do a right-up on the brake line job?
Unsure what you mean about doing a right-up, but I take it you see something wrong with my brake line job, or the line-lock part of it??Smile .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 2:32AM
nothing wrong that  know of ? i just wondered what size / type of copper you used & all that good stuff... steel tube nuts, stainless or what, you know all the goodies
 
the i got to wondering if copper was acceptable for brake tubing? as long as it doesn't rub / vibrate / chaff the copper should last 100 years or more but is it OK for inspections? what would the TUV say?
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http://store.fedhillusa.com/
 
and a more $ flaring tool Pinch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 4:01AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

nothing wrong that  know of ? i just wondered what size / type of copper you used & all that good stuff... steel tube nuts, stainless or what, you know all the goodies
 
the i got to wondering if copper was acceptable for brake tubing? as long as it doesn't rub / vibrate / chaff the copper should last 100 years or more but is it OK for inspections? what would the TUV say?

don't mean to speak for anyone but it is probably a nickel copper alloy (should be, pure copper is way too weak). It is as strong as steel, as durable as stainless, weighs less, and bends super easy. I did my entire van with NiCo alloy tubing and I know form experience it flares supper easy too. Not one leak on my first try.

Yes it is "softer" than steel but you don't want steel line rubbing or rattling around either so what difference does it make...

Advance sells it for a good price.  

now something you always have to think about is galvanic corrosion. That is the reaction between metals.


read up, very interesting.

Stainless and NiCo are so close on the cart that I got all stainless fitting where ever I could, plus stainless Steel is more corrosion resistant that steel to begin with and it looks cool. I was temped to get aluminum "an" tube nuts and sleeves for this project but I think the two together are very susceptible to reaction when exposed to weather and stuff, and you can't crank down on aluminum enough to get a good seal in those 37* fittings.  I am going to be making aluminum brackets to hold the lines to the frame and mount the front fittings where the hoses come up but I am going to coat all the aluminum in some kind of rust preventive coating for extra safety. Also anodizing the aluminum gives it a natural "forced" corrosion layer that helps protect it in all situations.

I should have a sweet setup when I am done. I am going to be posting pictures on my thread soon.

I never use steel anymore. It is dangerous, wayyyy to prone to corrosion. The coated stuff just slows down the process.

-Billy Conturo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 5:41AM
maybe nylon hold downs?
 
i've seen zinc plated with plasti-dip protection in the loop, also just saw a magnetic 'no-drill' system
 
yeah i don't think i'll put any effort into steel lines even though they may last longer than some other things. available @ Advance makes the product more accessible, is 3/16" the only size we need to do the whole chassis?
 
i have the 'long wheel base' so i'll have to figger if 25' will be enough
 
a little reading up suggests that std copper is on the weak side for modern brake systems. copper was used back in the day but it was probably not the same thickness tube or alloy as what we get at the plumbing supply today
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 6:47AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

maybe nylon hold downs?
 
i've seen zinc plated with plasti-dip protection in the loop, also just saw a magnetic 'no-drill' system
 
yeah i don't think i'll put any effort into steel lines even though they may last longer than some other things. available @ Advance makes the product more accessible, is 3/16" the only size we need to do the whole chassis?
 
i have the 'long wheel base' so i'll have to figger if 25' will be enough
 
a little reading up suggests that std copper is on the weak side for modern brake systems. copper was used back in the day but it was probably not the same thickness tube or alloy as what we get at the plumbing supply today

I was actually considering it. Nylon gets brittle and plasti-dip is only as durable as the plastic. Aluminum is very durable, it probably wont be a problem, I am just a little ocd when it comes to this stuff.. also nylon hold downs by those headers???? I don't know about that one.
 

The alloy (combination copper with nickel) is the key.  Volvo was the first to start using the alloy and still use it. Supposedly Porsche, Audi/VW, Mercedes and other higher end car manufactures use it on all vehicles they produce now.  Gota love technology!!

You would need a little more than 25' to do the entire thing but it is worth it to have some lying around for other things like vacuum lines and other vehicles you might end up needing it on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 2:30PM
I agree with Billy on the alloy lines.it's more $ but very easy to work and you'll never replace it again.straight copper is waaaaay to soft.I believe it's illegal for a service garage to use it.(in CT) anyways,Thats what I was told way back in the 80's.also don't use compression fittings for brake line repairs,Not acceptable! Stainless is great if you buy pre-made lines,but if you try to do it your self you'll be swearing till the cows come home.
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Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 2:57PM
Way off topic.. Always interested in talking about brake lines tho.. I am starting a new thread.

Back to the original topic.

I am going to bring all my lines for the front and the fuel line over the FL UCA and then go to an "an" tee and spit it. one side will feed the FL caliper via a hose directly fitted to the tee and the other side will go down the front of the cross member, cut right along that spot below the spring perch opening, cut back along rear of the cross member, cut right along that same spot on the other side,  and up the front of the cross member to the hose connection. I will have pictures in this thread and my thread when I am done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SininenIII Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2012 at 9:23PM
Max, I used copper+nickel alloy line, that´s the only they sell here in car part stores, bought a 20 meter roll. Fittings from Summitracing and local part stores, don´t know the material, they look like brass.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fordpower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2012 at 12:36AM
Has anyone ever tried having stock exhaust blasted to increase vol.
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