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moose0211
Senior Member Joined: 23-September-2009 Location: Baltimore Status: Offline Points: 456 |
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Posted: 22-December-2009 at 5:48AM |
Hello, i am going to put an msd system in my torino. I read all of the directions and it looks pretty easy, the only part I am worried about is the Distributor because I heard if 1 tooth doesnt line up, it will never run again. Is this true and should I let a mechanic do this or is it something I can handle? Thanks
Moose
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lynchster
Senior Member Joined: 07-January-2006 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 2150 |
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If it winds up being one tooth off just pull it back out and reinstall it the right way.
Chuck
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Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport 13 Taurus SHO "Mr Pig" |
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moose0211
Senior Member Joined: 23-September-2009 Location: Baltimore Status: Offline Points: 456 |
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WOW, i had a bain fart, sorry I overlooked that I could just pull it out. LOL Thanks. Is there a certain position that I need to put the distributor in or do I just slide it in?
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Eliteman76
Admin Group Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5044 |
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LMAO...sorry dude, that bit about one tooth off and it'll never run again is about right.
I've fought timing issues in the past, and it sure as heck seems like I've fought it, but it's a very simple basic deal to remove the original, and replace it with the MSD unit.
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems |
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Regul8r
Admin Group Moderator Joined: 26-December-2007 Location: Sarasota FL Status: Offline Points: 6624 |
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Mark the old one BEFORE you loosen ANYTHING!
SPRAY the area off and wipe it off REAL GOOD! Around the distributor base to avoid any dirt debris falling in the hole when the distributor is removed.
1. Mark the engine(something NOT gonna move when you take out the distributor), mark it where the #1 spark plug wire is. THIS is to line up where the distributor cap should be when it is back in place. This will put it almost dead on timing when you get it back together. There will be a little difference between distributors depending on the electrodes in the cap and the rotor(when they connect). IF the new distributor has a vacuum advance you will have to mark the motor where the one coming out the motor was facing so you can see where to line up the new one with vacuum advance.
2. Rotate the motor to TDC(Top Dead Center) by putting the timing marks on zero. Ensure it is TDC and not 180degrees off. Do this by popping off the distributor cap and making sure when the timing marks are lined up the rotor is facing the mark you made for the #1 plug wire. IF the rotor is facing the opposite direction rotate the motor one more full turn to line up the timing marks again, this will rotate the distributor 180 degrees and line the rotor up.
3. Disconnect the battery! (no way the motor will be accidentally bumped with no juice to it!)
4. NOW both the rotor and the cap are lined up to the mark you made on the motor.
5. Loosen the adjusting bolt, disconnect the wires and vacuum hose.
6. WHATEVER YOU DO NOW...DO NOT HIT THE KEY OR MOVE THE MOTOR NOW! Refer to step 3.
7. When the Distributor comes out make sure the oil pump shaft stayed in place down in the hole, if not and it comes out stuck in the bottom of the distributor...no issue, just an extra step.
8. re-install the oil pump drive shaft with a SMALL "DAB" of silicone(to hold it in place) on the bottom of it into the oil pump.
9. a real thin rub of silicone on the Distributor shaft o-ring helps seal it and lube it as it goes in.
10. a "DAB" of grease in the bottom of the distributor where the oil pump shaft goes in will help it slip in easier.
11. line up the rotor, distributor cap and vacuum advance, on the new distibutor... mark them so they line up with the marks made on the motor from step #1.
12. slide the distributor into the hole, it will start to mesh with the cam gear and the shaft will rotate as it goes further down. the Distributor body should be lined up going directly down into the hole with the rotor shaft rotating.
13. UNLESS you are the luckiest SOB in the world... the shaft will hit the oil pump driveshaft feeling like it bottoms out...but the base of the distributor will not be seated, it will be up about 1/4 inch from being seated. STOP and read next step.
14. VERIFY the rotor is ALMOST lined up with the ROTOR mark from step 1. It should be off by a small amount if the distibutor is not seated all the way. IF it is directly lined up or no where near it...pull out and move ONE tooth in the proper direction...you can do this by lifting slowly while trying to turn the shaft... as it clears the gears you can turn it that little bit for the next tooth.
15. IF everything was lined up in Step 13 or re-lined up in step 14 but it is still not sitting down flush... it means the oil pump shaft is not in the base of the rotor shaft. SMALL raising and tapping down by hand SHOULD get the oil pump shaft to move slightly in order to line up and the whole distributor will slide right down flush in place(thats why we use the grease in the bottom). IF you cannot get it to drop in... pull it all the way out, then a long thin screwdriver down in the hole to turn the oil pump shaft just a VERY LITTLE BIT should get it to drop in.
It is not that hard and IF you mess it up any good mechanic can re-set it the right way for you.
JUST MARK THE engine where the #1 plug wire post was lined up!
Good luck!
Many people are scared of playing with distributor, it sounds complicated and scary but after your first experience you will never understand why people are scared of it anymore!
Hell if you have a good webcam one of us could walk you through it online! lol
IF it wasn't so damn cold I would go do it on my car and take pics to show the steps. sorry
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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae" 97 Suzuki Intruder 1400 US Army Retired |
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moose0211
Senior Member Joined: 23-September-2009 Location: Baltimore Status: Offline Points: 456 |
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Thanks guys, I am so nervous I am going to screw something up, say i get the distrubtor in, but the timing sucks, can I drive it to my mechanic or will it screw the engine up? How long would you guys say this would take? Thanks
Moose
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Regul8r
Admin Group Moderator Joined: 26-December-2007 Location: Sarasota FL Status: Offline Points: 6624 |
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I can do the whole job in less than 30 minutes from drive in to drive out.
IF you mark it properly and when you get it installed
the rotor and the distributor cap are lined up with the mark you made... should drive just fine to get it to a mechanic for a timing adjustment... OR just ask a mechanic and pay him the hour of labor to do the job.
Sorry not closer. Also gonna be in B'more any time soon.
Spent 3 years at APG, wife is from Dundalk. we get back there at least once a year... will let you know, love to see the ride up close.
there are some good mechanics in the area you should be able to find someone to do this for you fairly cheap and quick.
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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae" 97 Suzuki Intruder 1400 US Army Retired |
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moose0211
Senior Member Joined: 23-September-2009 Location: Baltimore Status: Offline Points: 456 |
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Thanks, I am going to attempt to do the job myself and if I mess up, Off to Mr. Dave (my mechanic)! I would love to see your ride up close to! The next time you come down be sure to let me know!
Moose
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