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kversch View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: floor board rust question
    Posted: 11-February-2010 at 7:43AM


is it worth the time to drill out the spot welds on the seat rails  to take them off the floor pans in order to better coat the metal underneath with por 15?   have you guys gone to this extent,   it mostly seems to be just very minor surface rust.
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ilyes View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2010 at 8:17AM
i've just use a dreme; for these parts, for me, it was just a surface rust, kind like you, it took me 30 minutes, for both side
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2010 at 12:30PM
An angle grinder with wire brushes will clean the rust up . Use a rust destoryer or converter. It is phosphoric acid based it will find it way in areas the wire brush cannot get to. Finish it with a rust proofing primer and paint . I use tremclad paint here in Montreal .I know por15 or rustoileum is will known in the USA. Also before you start try and find the water leak that may be causing this.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2010 at 1:20PM
The water leak was probably little kids with wet shoes over the years. 
Paul
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2010 at 1:37PM
My wagon floors were similar to yours if not a lil worse. I used the the POR-15 products. I first brushed off all the loose scale with a wire brush and vacuumed up all the debris. Then I washed everything up with the MARINE CLEAN. After thoroughly cleaning the floors I applied the METAL READY and kept it wet for approx 30 minutes. After a thorough rinsing with water I allowed the floors to dry completely. The following day I painted the entire floor with the POR-15 Rust paint. That was done almost 2 years ago and there are no signs of rust. Excellent product!!!
 
Here is a link with photos:
 
 


Edited by gpd294 - 11-February-2010 at 3:11PM
Carlos....1975 Gran Torino Squire Station Wagon restored to look like a 1973 Torino Station

Wagon my Dad bought new from McAnary Ford on June 6, 1973 in Gary,Indiana
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2010 at 3:05PM
I wouldn't drill out the spot welds. Clean under the seat rails as much as possible, pour in a little POR-15 and spread it around with a bottle brush, or even a piece of cloth attached to a stiff wire. That should put an end to your rust problems.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 12:57AM
Agreed...I'd just clean off any loose stuff as best as you can, they treat with a good coating of your choice of rust treatment.
I stripped my floor clean and used por15 on it around I think 7? years ago.
Last time I looked, floor is still holding up just fine.
 
*Edit*
I forgot, was thinking about it, and you can buy a cheapo spraygun, and spray the POR15 inside the rails.
I know I coated my floorpan, firewall front to back with the stuff.
 
 


Edited by Eliteman76 - 12-February-2010 at 12:59AM
Andrew
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 5:32AM
I am going to buy one of those hand pump bug sprayers with the long steel wand tip on it.
That will fit right up inside the frame rails from different points and ensure it ALL gets covered with paint/POR15 or something else to keep it safe for years to come!
 
Do the same thing with the hard to reach areas too!
I used to go hog wild with 3M Rubberized undercoating... LOVE THAT STUFF!
Comes in a large spray paint can with a long tube on it, also acts as a sound deadener.
Sprayed the WHOLE interior of my mustang when I had it stripped. Not as good as sheet deadener but it did do some good. VERY good to get down inside the edges of doors and hard to reach seems at the rear wheel wells inside.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 6:11AM
Carl, I didn't think about one of those sprayers, only problem is you will have to reduce the POR15 with their thinner to spray it.
I have used laquer thinner with ok results, but been told to not use anything but the POR15 reducer as it's not laquer but something else.
Thus far, no problems with it falling off though.
I like the bug sprayer though...keeps from having a huge mist.
PITA enough as is, if you get some on your skin.
I'd hate to wax myself with a paint sprayer full of por15.
Andrew
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 6:14AM
ALSO make sure you put down a tarp!
 
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 6:15AM
I agree, that POR-15 Stuff is very thick. I got very good results just using a cheap brush. And as you will read in the instructions, DO NOT get that stuff on you because it will stay there for a lil while. LOL

Edited by gpd294 - 14-February-2010 at 5:53AM
Carlos....1975 Gran Torino Squire Station Wagon restored to look like a 1973 Torino Station

Wagon my Dad bought new from McAnary Ford on June 6, 1973 in Gary,Indiana
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 10:36AM
Guess I'm a bit of an extremist.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 11:21AM
Originally posted by lynchster lynchster wrote:

Guess I'm a bit of an extremist.  


so you took the time to drill them out and then put them back in?  was is a pain in the A**   to do.   we are thinking thats what we may end up doing.   still not sure.  we are def going to use por 15 on the inside and posibly on the outside.  may also coat the inside with spray on undercoating.


Edited by kversch - 12-February-2010 at 11:22AM
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 1:44PM

That's a pic just before I cut it out of the Ranchero. I was in the process of cleaning up the edges when we got dumped on by all this "global warming". I have to remove 4" out of middle so I'm gonna play around with it before the final install so you can't see the seam.

Chuck 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2010 at 4:35PM
When I had the floors on my 72 done, I had them drill out the floor rails as well and sure enough there were areas where the tin worm had clearly been at work that wasn't at all obvious from underneath (similar in location to Chuck's pictures.  So if it were me, I'd drill the welds and clean out any rust.  That way you'll never have to worry about it again.   Paul~
1972 GTS 351CJ-4V black/black
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2010 at 9:38AM
another idea is to get an undercoating gun,they have a long flexible tube that you can shove in holes and hard to reach areas.simply put an inline air regulater and you can regulate the pressure.The garden sprayer may or maynot work,it might not have enough pressure to spray the rust paints or the other thing is the spray wand is rigid and wont flex to get in certain areas.We use the undercoating gun and can spray undercoat or rustfighter(wax spray)inside unibody frame rails and rocker panels that are long and boxed in where the garden sprayer would never reach inside to completely cover the whole inside.simply shove the wand inside a cavity pull the trigger and pul the wand slowly out and it sprays and coats the inside of the panel then after your done flush the gun with thinner to clean it out and it's ready to use again later.another note is that I have sprayed Worth Rustguard out of a spraygun to seal a rusted roof on a Chevy pick up simular to POR 15,so you can also spray your floors and inside doors
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2010 at 10:06AM
ok heres my complaint about drilling the welds and removing the braces.sure you can clean any rust scale that may have started but you have to plug weld them back in with a mig welder so you certainly can' t coat the metal where the 2 metals join as you need clean bare mteal to weld to or using any chemicals will contaminate the welds.For people witg mig welding experience you know what happens,the weld pop & spatter alot and get tiny holes in the welds which can make for bad or sloppy welds which burn holes or grow bigger when trying to fill them in .This inturn also starts the corrosion proccess again so now you have burnt the metal on both sides requiring you to strip all the aress underneath the floor at all the welds and get the metal clean from residue from welding or rust starts forming almost immediately.So if you can' t coat these areas before you weld the braces back on what have you really accomplished besides extra work & starting more of a corrosion process between the metals at all the welds.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2010 at 10:37AM
POR 15,Rustguard & other simular products were designed to go over rusted metals to seal them from moisture & oxygen which are the 2 things combined that start the corrosion process on bare steel.Sealing the metal with these products is suppose to slow or stop the corrosion process,so if you coat the inside of these areas with the products using an undercoating wand it should infact seal both sides of the metal in between eliminating the need to drill out welds & removing the braces cause you can't coat the metal around the area of the welds you drilled out cause when the chemical burns it contaminates the weld.I tnink blowing out underneath the braces with compressed air to remove debris and dirt,then spraying the rust prevenative paints with a wand that can completely coat inside the braces is actually a better idea and less work & might even be more structurely sound by not disturbing the factory spotwelds.I can guarentee rust forms between the 2 metals at the welds,see it alot on previosly welded panels
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lynchster View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2010 at 11:08AM
There is no intent to disparage what one does with ones own vehicle. My Rt Rear floor in my opinion was past coatings. There were issues behind and underneath the rear seat brace necessitating structural repair. I also have the advantage of a suspended body and the underside of the floor will be sandblasted and painted.
I too have concerns about the sandwiched metal for the seat braces and will be using a weld-thru primer. Beyond that I may take some reduced epoxy primer and a modeling brush to flow primer into the seams. It's as best as I can figure to with it.
I may try that POR-15 on the Ranchero however as I have repeatedly heard good things about it and the underside has a lot of surface rust. 
Anyone have any long term results using the stuff on a daily driver?   
Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2010 at 6:30PM
Well...I did my GTS frame 8? years ago with the stuff, you can wax the metal with a hammer, and I have yet to chip the crap off my frame. I should of top coated the frame, but didn't.

Andrew
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