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INFO: Adjustable strut rod - the holy grail

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-December-2015 at 3:03PM

Thanks for the update.  Just got and paid my final invoice.  Looking forward to having these installed before the car hits the road in the spring.

Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-January-2016 at 2:58AM
UPDATE...
"Well everything is done except the lasered washer rings. Hoping it will be this week. Then I'll need about a day to machine the small relief in them, then drop off to get the powdercoat. Looking like another couple weeks by the time all that happens, unfortunately.  Really wish I could ship right now but I'm at the mercy of my suppliers on this one."
 
Can't wait to see the final product.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2016 at 6:01AM
Good to know.
While I'm thinking about it does anyone know the material of the original strut rids?
Safe to weld on them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmaxtorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2016 at 11:16AM
First set test installed on the frame I'm going to restore.



Edited by madmaxtorino - 15-January-2016 at 11:22AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2016 at 1:34PM
wow, those look awesome!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-January-2016 at 2:41PM
NICE!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-January-2016 at 4:36PM
Originally posted by madmaxtorino madmaxtorino wrote:

First set test installed on the frame I'm going to restore.

 
Looks AWESOME!  Can't wait to get mine and install them!  How is the articulation of the strut rod compared to stock rubber?  Any install issues?
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2016 at 5:44AM
Mine just arrived in the mail today!  The parts look like they are excellent quality and very well made.  Can't wait for the spring to see how they feel on the car.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2016 at 6:09AM
I'm disappointed to say they elected to not fulfill my order.
Eric sent me an email explaining things but I'm not happy about this situation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2016 at 3:44AM
Would be interesting to see video of the suspension before and after the bushing change to see how much improvement we would see.   I wonder how much those wireless video camera are...to capture this.
 
Andy,
Any chance they would start a "wait list" to get on the next build batch?
 
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2016 at 4:21AM
John, what they told me is on the next batch request I'll be first in line. My issue is without being a drama queen I simply expected if I put a deposit down and agreed to pay nearly $100 more I'd get my order.

I can't blame them as they are a small shop and I don't want them stuck with material special ordered in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-February-2016 at 3:05PM
I'm surprised they didn't run an extra 5 or at least a couple sets,
especially for those extra $100 kinda times if not a 'just in case' situation
 
same with the upper arms, 0 available?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2016 at 2:47PM
Why didn't they fulfill your order Andy?
I think they are still available for new orders.  They are listed on the site, but the price is slightly higher than the group buy:
 
 
They also still list the UCAs
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 3:49AM
Anyone else mounted their parts yet that can share some pics?
 
How did the kit installation go; feedback on how they perform?
 
 
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2016 at 5:02AM
Hey John,
I got mine installed on Easter weekend.  I don't have my car on the road yet, as I still have to reinstall my steering box which I just had recalibrated with the newer style spool valve and bigger T-bar for more road feel.  I also have to get my interior back together.
 
The install is pretty straight forward.  There is two layers of steel to drill through, each about 1/8" thick, so make sure you use a good quality drill bit.  I ruined a couple of my cheaper bits trying them first.  After consulting with Eric from the Little shop, this is the install method I used. 
 
Take the larger half, the bearing cup that sits on the front of the frame, and I pressed it into the hole using a c-clamp.  I had to ream the frame holes on each side to get it to sit squarely.  Once this is pressed in, make sure it's sitting square with the frame.  Then I used a 5/16" drill bit and with the cup still clamped drill the holes, using the cup as a template.  The angle is very critical and the thick steel on the frame doesn't allow the bolts to have much movement.  Once the holes are drilled, the rest is pretty straight forward.  Install the bearing in the cup, install the bearing cup on the frame and then install the back side and the three bolts.  Then just reinstall the strut rods with the supplied machined spacers. 
 
Clearance is tight with the front valance installed to drill the holes (on a 1972) so an angle drill or one with a small head may be useful.  My only disappointment with the parts was the quality of the powder wasn't that good.  I had to touch up on of mine as the paint chipped of during the install.
 
Once I get the car back on the road, I will post on here how they perform.
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2016 at 3:05PM
Just an update.  I finally had the time to get my car back together and get it on the road.  So far I am very impressed with the strut rod bushings.  There seems to be no added suspension harshness, and it feels like the front suspension articulates better over rough roads.  It made the front end feel tighter overall.  Our spring roads here are really rutted, broken up and and bad, so I drove it pretty aggressively through the rough stuff and it seems to work really well at keeping the front suspension moving properly without and hopping or skipping.
 
So far very impressed and it was a worthwhile upgrade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-April-2016 at 1:38PM
Thanks for the update.   Any pics?   I still havent been able to do mine yet.  I've been fixing so many other things.  Latest was fixing the wipers, they wouldn't park when turned off.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-April-2016 at 2:50PM
I have some pics after they were installed, but not pics of the installation (there's not much too it).  If you want to see the installed pics, give me a day or two to get them on my computer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-May-2016 at 3:47PM
Here are some pics (mind the old undercoating and red overspray, I haven't detailed the frame):
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2016 at 1:51AM
Looks great...can't wait to start on my front suspension.
Is there a way to grease the bearing?   I'm wondering if it should get greased up before assembly.   I haven't even started laying the parts out to check.   Heim joints are good for track duty but for street they don't keep the dust/dirt out which shortens their lifetime a lot.
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2016 at 12:34PM

I used no grease.  This is what Eric from the Little Shop said:

" The bearings are PTFE lined (Teflon) and need no greasing during their lifetime. That material also works as a wiper to keep grit from getting inside the bearing. This exact part is regularly used on offroad trucks in various places without any additional sealing. It's safe to say they'll last for many, many thousands of miles on a street car. "
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-May-2016 at 12:39PM
Thanks....I wasn't sure regarding the reliability of the bearing with regards to dirt (street use).  The grease with a dust cover keeps those OEM ball joints safe and last longer than the typical heim joint.   I was wondering if that applied to these bearings in the kit.   I know I asked littleshop...but its good to double sanity check.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-February-2022 at 3:36PM
Just chiming in here. Asking for a long term update from everyone that has installed these. 

Also, because the Little Rod Shop made the effort, it's worthy for an update so stuff like this can be recommended to others with actual feedback of driving. 

Side note: I will FINALLY be installing all my front end parts, after the last 3+ years of waiting for a chance to do it. Jut waiting for spring weather to break and warm up enough to be out in an unheated garage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-February-2022 at 3:37PM
Originally posted by cggrob cggrob wrote:

Sorry for the long wait on my reply guys - been working my A$$ off. 
First, I am a P.E. so here is the disclaimer:  the information presented herein is presented for educational purposes only and the parts and modifications shown herein should never be done to a vehicle that will be operated on a public highway. 
 
Therefore, I will not be making any of these for anyone else.
 
Please see rough machinist drawing for the "clevis" piece and washer.  The most critical dimension is that the portion of the clevis which passes through the frame has to have a diameter of 1.445".  the unmolested hole size at the frame mounting point on my car is 1.448", which is a 1972 built in October 1971. Do use some high strength free-machining steel if you can find it, but generally I think the whole thing is a little overdesigned and regular carbon steel (1020 or similar) would work fine.  If using cold roll shafting it will be tough for a machinist to cut the deep U.
 
I used a rod end from the McMaster Carr catalog, part # 6960T42. This is a high-misalignment 5/8" rod end with over size 3/4" long shank (2") and 3/4-16 LH (fine) thread with a 22,000# radial load.  The 3/4" shank allows you to mate with the existing strut rod which is 3/4" diameter, by threading it 3/4-16 RH ( a more common die for most of us).  The 5/8" rod end is less bulky than the 3/4" and allows  high misalignment rod end fit in the existing space.  Do use a high misalignment rod end to permit full articulation of the suspension. The bolt holding the clevis to the car is a 2 3/4" long allen head socket screw with full length thread of 2 3/4" (they are all grade 8), McMaster Carr catalog, part # 91251A047.  The strut rod is joined to the rod end using a UB Machine 3/4" "trailing arm", 6" long, which comes pre-threaded 3/4"-16 RH and LH.  UB Machine part # is 42-0602-A - they are about $10 a piece.  You should be able to put it all together including jam nuts for about $100 if you can machine this yourself.  I think the $275 mentioned for a machine shop to make this up is a very fair price.
 
I have tested this by driving over a road filled with roots that looks like a suspension proving track, and also at highway speed.  My impression is that you really do not need a bearing in the LCA.  This strut rod stabilizes the front suspension so much you really have to experience it and I would do this before I considered doing that.  I also believe it is good to have a little extra compliance in that location (the LCA mounting point/bushing), though this car does have poly bushings in the LCA and UCA now.  You can adjust the caster using the adjustable strut rod if you wish.  The ball joints are going to stay "lined up" regardless - they are 2 opposing points which always make a straight line.  what you may be doing is putting some extra stress on the UCA bushings.  My procedure is to align the suspension using the factory method, and then fine tune in some extra caster with the adjustable strut rod. This will put a little preload on the upper bushings and I don't believe it will result in any premature wear - but then, if you are doing this, that's not going to be a concern.  I also believe this helps tighten up the suspension.  If you are after "factory specs" for your alignment, you can set the caster to what I think is about 1 degree less than factory as your LCA will not be deflecting under load as it did with the rubber bushing, so the dynamic caster will be about factory spec.  It does appear to me that this suspension layout benefits from increased caster, so I am going +1 degree to factory setting giving me what I think is 2 degrees increased dynamic caster.
 
Regular8 said this: "IF the lower points are fore or aft of each other you will get a DIAMOND effect like we do with the race cars. This will cause a pull/drift, even if the caster/camber is the same" and he is correct, so do try to take this into account.  Having said that, think of the factory assembly tolerances and bushing slop in this design, and I think as long as you are pretty close you are going to be OK.  I purposely did a little offset adjustment side-to-side and did not notice any difference in my test drive with street tires - YMMV.
 
Guys I tried to answer all the questions raised but just reply if I missed something.

After all this time, how has your setup held up?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-February-2022 at 5:35AM
Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:

Just chiming in here. Asking for a long term update from everyone that has installed these. 

Also, because the Little Rod Shop made the effort, it's worthy for an update so stuff like this can be recommended to others with actual feedback of driving. 

Side note: I will FINALLY be installing all my front end parts, after the last 3+ years of waiting for a chance to do it. Jut waiting for spring weather to break and warm up enough to be out in an unheated garage.

I have had mine on the car for numerous years now.  No issues whatsoever.  They are as tight as the day I installed them and a big improvement over the stock rubber bushings.
Vince

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