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Correct engine stand

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rrlcommish View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrlcommish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Correct engine stand
    Posted: 12-October-2014 at 2:50PM
Need to get my 351 Cleveland on a stand for rebuild.  Going to purchase one from Summit Racing.  Looks like they are rated by weight, but their web site doesn't help you on recommended stands for your application.  What would be the correct weight capacity for this engine?  The stands they sell run (in lbs): 750, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1500 and 2000.  Any assistance is appreciated.  Thanks!
1972 Gran Torino Sport Fastback, Bored 30-over 351C - 4V, Lt Blue, Pertronix Ignitor, dual exhaust with Turbo mufflers, otherwise stock
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kychevyguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 3:00PM
For your 351, which weighs about 550 lbs, the lowest capacity would suffice, but my recomendation is to go with the 1000 lbs capacity unit. This is one tool you dont want to scrimp on.
JT, USAF Ret./Architect
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 3:01PM
Engine stands are generally low quality construction, they all look flimsy when you get them. The last one I bought was from Harbor Freight and for 1500lbs I think. It has extra links along the sides for strength etc, but like all of them they look like you could do better at home making one yourself.

So, try to buy one that in appearance looks strong, shoot for 1000-1500lbs of capacity, no less. They all bend a lot when you get any engine on them.

Check out the bolts well before assembling one. Often they are low grade bolts, and you need it to have very strong bolts. Make the block mounting bolts grade 8, at least grade 5 for the basic bolts. Unfortunately I think everything you find will be made in China, so there isn't much else to look at. The best stuff will come from parts trucks, Snap-On, Matco etc, but those will be super high.
Don
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rrlcommish View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrlcommish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 3:02PM
Awesome, thanks JT.
1972 Gran Torino Sport Fastback, Bored 30-over 351C - 4V, Lt Blue, Pertronix Ignitor, dual exhaust with Turbo mufflers, otherwise stock
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2014 at 4:11PM
X2 on what jt and don said
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2014 at 11:57AM
Make SURE it has the front wheels separated out as wide as the rears. (base shaped like an H when viewed from above) some of the cheap ones have the front close or only 3 wheels (shaped like a T) those will fall over. Ouch
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedway 650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-October-2014 at 3:08PM
  At least a dozen years ago, I bought an engine stand at a local tool sales. It was a China special. I opted for one the was like 1200 pounds, and not the tricycle type, but had a U shape with a wide stance. I was lowering a 300 6 cylinder Ford engine on it from a cherry picker (a cheap Taiwan special, but curiously a very well built tool that I bought ten years or more before the engine stand and one that still works great). I like fingertip control, so I never reef the valve on the jack with the jack handle. I was easing the engine down...down...down...down....stop. That doesn't look right. Sure enough. The box tubing that the main vertical member was made out of was splitting at the weld seem end to end. Had I just reached over and given the valve a twist, the hoist would have dropped the engine very fast, and left the engine on the ground, while still attached to the stand. I never used the stand. I gave away the worthless hulk to a scrapper. If a person had a valuable engine and wasn't careful, the junk they sell could ruin your day!
 
  -Les
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-January-2016 at 3:03PM
I'm was behind on posting on this old post but minimum 1,000 pound stand.

I say a 4 wheel stand, T type with a short front cross piece. Fitment into an engine hoist can be a headache at times!!

Note: 

Look at this engine stand. It's rated for 1250 pounds. The thing with my cleveland was tilting and falling over. Look at the rear wheel in the air...on a flat floor.

I pulled this engine stand off my Step dad's farm after he tossed a blown sbc into the junk pile with this stand. This is an Excel, american made stand and by far the best stand I've ever had.
I want to rework the pipe part to make it geared to rotate the engine easier..




Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-January-2016 at 5:39AM
I HAVE AN EXCEL, SAME AS ANDYS.  It will hold a dressed 460 without sagging.  very bad ass.  my hoise is made by the same company.  well build piece of equipment.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-January-2016 at 2:50AM
I was at harbor freight last weekend and took a peak.
They have a four wheel stand similar to my excel but the gusseting in no where near as heavy.

Excel from my understanding closed a while back...it's a shame as their stuff was good.
If you buy the harbor freight option I'd be adding gusset welded pieces to better strengthen the stand.
Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems
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