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ElsidAxe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Getting a carburator
    Posted: 04-December-2014 at 12:08PM
Hi Guys, so im trying to put a new carburetor on my 73 5.8Lt Cleveland Engine model Gran Torino. im planning on buying a Edelbrock 9906 Performer 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary Electric Choke Re-manufactured Carburetor, i would just like to know if i use a converter kit from 2 barrel to 4 barrel if this is a good idea. Also how to install it ive never done it before although it looks simple enought is there anything i need to know before going in or anything i would just see as i did it. Like any surprises besides the bolts and stuff. Im also wondering if this is a good carburetor it seems good for the price and i dont have a sand blaster so i cant rebuild mine. my budget is about $300. Thanks for the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GTW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 12:46PM
I assume you don't have a 4 barrel intake?
Griffin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 2:12PM
Sandblaster? for rebuilding carbs? Thumbs Down
If you are going to get an Edelbrock, get a new one, not a rebuilt. 1406 is a vacuum secondary 600 with electric choke. There are 4bbl manifolds available for 2bbl heads. This is a better idea than the adapter. The intake is fairly easy as the intake is "dry" no coolant flow thru it, and distributor doesn't need to be removed (if you are careful). If you have an automatic trans, you will need a linkage kit, and the linkage hookup is kinda funky, and the tubular kickdown rod will need some revision to work properly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1406/overview/
 
These are edelbrock carbs and intakes at Jegs and Summit, if you replace the intake, the intake has to be for 2bbl heads (intake ports are different)
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 2:34PM
so i was told that my carb was either rusty or or something and needed to be cleaned off with a sand blaster maybe that was wrong? im not sure. i bought this car after it had been sitting for a long time and im just trying to get it running.

could i use this 
to put a 4 barrel on my engine im not particularly good with cars (yet) though i want to learn.

also what is a linkage kit? what does it do? does my car have one and do i need to buy a new one? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 2:38PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 3:03PM
Kickdown linkage:
The adapter would work, kinda-sorta, but is nowhere near as good as a proper intake.
As far as sandblasting a carb, NO. bad idea, as the carb has many small passages that are specific sizes that would be damaged or clogged. Most carbs have parts made of aluminum or pot metal and a sandblaster will eat them away. Thesr are carb cleaner solvents available that would clean up the carb, and if the carb is a ford 2bbl 2150 type, they are a good carb, simple to rebuild, and parts are commonly available.
Get the instructions online and read them. Maybe it's something you can try. If the carb is no good now, you have nothing to lose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 4:06PM
http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250/carb/carb03.html

This is a link to a page made long ago by a person named BubbaF250. It is not complete but will get you started on what it will take to rebuild a motorcraft 2150 carb. If you are uncomfortable with this, you may want to find a reputable local place that can rebuild it for you.

I do not recommend a rebuilt or remanufactured carb ever, those re-mans are poor quality. It is not the same as rebuilding your own. If you are looking for a cheap 4bbl carb I think I'd go with a Chinese summit brand carb before a re-man edelbrock.

If you are looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get the car running properly again, exploring the possibility of rebuilding your carb is the best option. Big bird is right that the kick down can be an issue with new carbs. For my 75 sport I installed a Lokar kick down cable set. Highly recommended but not for the meek. It was a pain the install on the lower end but then again I do have big block headers (factory exhaust will have much more room to work with). The Lokar products are very good.

If you are looking for the best option, as big bird suggested, but cost is not an issue, the 2bbl port intake plus a new edelbrock carb would be optimum with the adapter linkage and a Lokar kick down.

Edited by bata747-8 - 04-December-2014 at 4:07PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 4:50PM
no sandblasting or silicone near that carb! if you need a stock motorcraft 2bbl carb, i have the one off of my 74, it worked fine! i don't need it ,shoot me an offer???
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 9:37PM
Okay no sand good to know, ill look for that solution to clean it with. im going to buy this intake manifold: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN8XRM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But, what is A "adapter linkage and a Lokar kick down. " ? what does it do? do i already have one i can reuse? Thank for all the help so far!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 10:37PM
ohhhh wait do i not need an adapter kit if i replace the intake manifold? and the carb?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-December-2014 at 11:04PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 12:50AM
Originally posted by ElsidAxe ElsidAxe wrote:

Could i use these intakes if i wanted to dual carb?
would they fit? could i do it with the carburetor i want?
Welcome to the forum. No, you cannot use the edelbrock 5435 on your engine. It is designed for the ford 289 and 302 engines. It will not fit onto your engine.
 
And you cannot use the edelbrock 75254 on your engine. That intake manifold is designed for the small block chevrolet engines. It will not fit onto your engine.
 


Edited by dave302 - 05-December-2014 at 1:20AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 1:39AM
650cfm would be a safer choice for carb, AVS Thunder series on Summit racing

No idea how the adaptor works but odds are it'd make it too tall to fit under the hood. I'd also say go with a Weiand X-cellerator, Edelbrock air gap or performer if you're wanting to go 4bbl 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 8:50AM
ElsidAxe wrote:
"Could i use these intakes if i wanted to dual carb?"
If your mechanical skills are limited, I would recommend against dual carbs. Fussy and fidgety to install and tune properly. As far as the summit brand carbs, I'm hearing quality control is less than stellar.
Does the car run now and is it driveable?
If you are looking to get it going/driving and work the bugs out, I would recommend rebuilding your existing carb or getting a good 2150 ford motorcraft 2 bbl and installing it. This way you won't have any trouble with linkages or anything else.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinslo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 9:07AM
I hate to be the guy that says get a holley. I have the weieand intake and holley carb (combo) from summit. Had it several years just about to do a rebuild on the carb, only because I let it sit for a little too long. For all the issues I hear people having with holleys mine was a slap it on and go situation, although I had to buy a heat riser block off separately.

Can someone more knowledgeable explain why they're so horrible?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 9:28AM
If they are on a car that sits a lot, they have a tendency to get plugged up in all the little passages, fuel bowls need to be drained for jet swaps, proper float settings are more critical,  the older ones had issues with power valves (reportedly corrected in newer versions), and they aren't as forgiving of poorly matched combos as the edelbrocks.
Edelbrocks seem to tolerate abuse/neglect/crap gas as well as the ford 2150 2 bbl carbs do...
That being said, a properly set up and maintained Holley will usually make more power... they are a very good carb, just not as beginner-friendly.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foote500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 9:45AM
I think the sand blasting and silicon is a sound engineering solution to your carb issue, just need to make sure that afterwords you prime it really good with 30 weight ball bearings and then apply a butane plumbers torch  until it starts to glow red to seal it up nice and tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 10:27AM
Originally posted by foote500 foote500 wrote:

I think the sand blasting and silicon is a sound engineering solution to your carb issue, just need to make sure that afterwords you prime it really good with 30 weight ball bearings and then apply a butane plumbers torch  until it starts to glow red to seal it up nice and tight.
Before you prime it, make sure you run it thru the dishwasher to get all the little bits of sand out, and tumble-dry it in the biggest clothes dryer the laundromat, with some bowling balls to help beat the living sCensored out of it.
Then, order a new, working, carb of your choice. LOL
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 10:39AM
LOL ^^^ bowling balls! LOLLOLLOLLOLLOLThumbs Up ...still LMAO!!!
JOHN
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74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 11:19AM
Apologies ElsidAxe,
the above was meant in fun,
Sometimes we get side-tracked...
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 1:33PM
ElsidAxe, where are you located?
So many members here are willing to come by and help you out.
 
sounds as though you are working on a limited mechanical ability?
Simplist thing for you to do is swap on another GOOD 2bbl.
Drive, run and enjoy as you figure out any of the issues with it.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ElsidAxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 8:05PM
Im in california. okay... So the consensus says to use the carb i have.
And to awnser some questions, No its not running sadly that is what im working to achieve. 
On Edelbrock's website it says that this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDJP02/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Should fit in my hood. i have a 5.8 Cleveland engine. 

I would really like to do a Edelbrock 1804 and 1803 dual carb on a Edelbrock 7525 intake. the total cost is about $1100 

If that is not a proper fit (i will also get all the attachments and things i need such as the Edelbrock 8008, 8528, 7235, 8091, 7094, 8135.)

IF that doesn't work, fit, or is just not recommended i would then go to an Edelbrock 1406 and an Edelbrock 2750 intake witch would only be a Single carb 4 barrel. im just hesitant on the single cause if i want a double down the road it would be more costly. And that would be $500 around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pete rad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2014 at 11:23PM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDJP02/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I also agree that the Edelbrock 7525 Performer rpm air gap intake manifold is designed for the small block Chevrolet engines and it will not fit onto your engine. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pete rad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2014 at 12:00AM
Here are pictures of the Edelbrock 7525 Performer rpm air gap intake manifold.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2014 at 6:18AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

if you need a stock motorcraft 2bbl carb, i have the one off of my 74, it worked fine! i don't need it ,shoot me an offer???
 
this is your simplest fastest most economical route for the moment, a known good carb that you can carefully bolt on & get to know your way around under the hood some
 
how do you know that you won't find some other significant issue that requires the balance of your budget to correct? then you'll have a new intake & carb questionably installed because you've never done it before on top of an engine that still doesn't run...
 
to replace the same type of carb & have it work is a beautiful thing
 
to swap in a different style carb adds fuel line, throttle &  trans linkage issues
 
swapping the intake manifold opens the possibility of oil & vacuum leaks, dropping something into a cylinder head port, introduces plumbing fitting, bracket & hardware issues
 
yeah they make it look easy on TV
 
start small, gain experience & confidence(not too much) & let's get it running Wink
 
BTW, I started out with a factory 2bbl on a stock intake, you can make a lot of power & have a lot of fun like that before you start wishing you hadn't ever F'd with it  
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2014 at 6:57AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

if you need a stock motorcraft 2bbl carb, i have the one off of my 74, it worked fine! i don't need it ,shoot me an offer???
 
this is your simplest fastest most economical route for the moment, a known good carb that you can carefully bolt on & get to know your way around under the hood some
 
how do you know that you won't find some other significant issue that requires the balance of your budget to correct? then you'll have a new intake & carb questionably installed because you've never done it before on top of an engine that still doesn't run...
 
to replace the same type of carb & have it work is a beautiful thing
 
to swap in a different style carb adds fuel line, throttle &  trans linkage issues
 
swapping the intake manifold opens the possibility of oil & vacuum leaks, dropping something into a cylinder head port, introduces plumbing fitting, bracket & hardware issues
 
yeah they make it look easy on TV
 
start small, gain experience & confidence(not too much) & let's get it running Wink
 
BTW, I started out with a factory 2bbl on a stock intake, you can make a lot of power & have a lot of fun like that before you start wishing you hadn't ever F'd with it  
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nuggets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2014 at 9:27AM
Off topic but I've just bought myself an Edelbrock AVS Thunder in 650cfm flavour. If you haven't decided on a carb by the time I get it bolted on I'll write a small review on here

8 days ish from Summit to me :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-December-2014 at 2:47PM
   I strongly agree with most the folks here and what I say is basically just a repeat of some other members' posts. With limited mechanical knowledge a simple OEM replacement is always the way to go. It also doesn't sound like it is for certain a carb issue. The problem could be spark and fuel delivery to the carb just as easily. By all means start small and work your way up. Learn the techniques in keeping things clean and torquing bolts and fittings to spec. There is a great community of car (ford) enthusiasts here to guide you through the process. If you do really figure out it is the carb and replace it, the setup will need a good tuneup to operate reliably and at peak performance. Have no fear there will be loads of wrenching in the future without needing to change the intake manifold. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pete rad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2014 at 6:15AM
I will give you more information about carburetor and intake manifold selection. So you will know how to select the right carburetor and intake manifold in the future.
You had said that your goal is to install dual carburetors on your engine in the future.
Choosing the right carburetor and intake manifold is critical if you want to achieve the maximum power potential of your Engine. As such it's one of the most important decisions you'll make. Selecting the wrong carburetor, to big or to small, decreases power and driveability. An improperly sized carb may also result in hesitations and/or flat spots, poor idle quality, reduced mileage, and increased emissions. The most common mistake when building a performance motor, is selecting a carb which is simply to big (or over-sizing the carb). Don't fall into this trap, bigger is not better.......
 
 
The idea is to choose a carburetor that has a large enough bore and venturi to allow maximum airflow, yet one that's small enough to maintain a high-speed airflow signal through the primary venturi(s), which the carburetor needs in order to determine how much fuel is required to achieve the proper air/fuel mixture.
 
In theory, if the bore and venturi are too large, the signal will be weak at low engine speeds. As such, fuel will not be pulled from the carburetor's discharge ports accurately and the air/fuel mixture will be lean. The opposite of this effect is when the carburetor's bore and venturi are too small for the engine's airflow demands. While throttle response will be outstanding, the engine's maximum power potential will be diminished. The ideal carburetor will move the maximum amount of airflow through the carburetor and intake manifold, while maintaining the strongest possible signal.
 
 
It is important to use a CFM calculator to select the proper size carburetor for your CFM requirements. However, the calculated results are just that, calculated. Once you have done the calculations, consider the following important information before you make your final decision.
 


Edited by pete rad - 07-December-2014 at 9:24AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pete rad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2014 at 6:21AM
Important Information 
Bigger Carb
Smaller Carb
Results in More Horsepower
Results in More Torque
Results in a Higher RPM Range
Results in a Lower RPM Range
Prefers Higher Compression Ratios
OK with Lower Compression Ratios
Best with Higher Rear Gear Ratios
Best with Lower Rear Gear Ratios
Prefers More Cam Duration
Good with Lower Cam Durations
Better with Manual Transmissions
Better with Automatic Transmissions
Better with High Stall Converter
Better with Low Stall Converter
Needs More Mechanical Adv.
Needs Less Mechanical Adv.


Edited by pete rad - 07-December-2014 at 9:24AM
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