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New buyer. What to look for.

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drkness01 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29-June-2015 at 10:51AM
I ran across a 72 Gran torino 4dr for sale in my area. The seller is asking 1750 OBO.

Im no novice to old cars but this may end up being my first ford.
What should I look for before I buy it?
I want to have a checklist before I show up.

Here is my list so far:
Frame rust
Frame damage
Body rust
Steering + suspension
Electrical "fixes"? (aka. black tape balls)
Brakes
Lights
Interior

Are there any 70's Torino specific problem areas I should be check?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-June-2015 at 1:13PM
The biggest issues with our cars besides the obvious drivetrain/engine issues are all body/frame related specific to our cars(ok other cars too.)
 
 
1. Vinyl roof? ROT underneath in almost ALL cases!! IF it HAD a vinyl roof that has been removed look CLOSE at whatever body work they may have done to repair the rot holes. Front of the roof at the top of the windshield, rear of the roof above the window, lower window corners and along the top of the trunk between the window and trunk there is a separate piece of metal that completely disintegrates with a vinyl top rot issue.
2. Normal body work issues with paint, what is hidden? it should have had trim so if it doesn't look for how they repaired the holes (same for the vinyl roof trim if it isn't there.
3. Radiator core support on the bottom below the radiator is a common rot area. Very repairable. 
4. Front inner fender wells are COMMONLY rusted and not a big issue unless the area under the battery is completely GONE, it will require a new tray and fab work.
5. Top of the firewall inside the cowl or where the cowl is welded to the firewall.
6. Hood, look at the underside and check for rust and rot on the substructure. Also look closely at the side just in front of the hinge area to see if it has been kinked. Someone pulled down hard on the front and it actually BENT when the hinges were not freely working.
7. Body mount and underside of floor areas. Front lower part of the firewall, by the rear seat belt area and anything else you see while under the car. EASY to pop the lower rear seat out to see the floor pan where the outer seat belts bolt to.
8. inside and all around the trunk to include the underside of the trunk lid.
9. Look CLOSE at the frame! Directly under the rear doors where the rear lower control arms bolt to the frame in the pockets and slightly ahead of those!
10. front seat mounting points.
 
being a 4dr... pay CLOSE ATTENTION to the door seals all the way around on both sides, these are NOT reproduced so if they are bad you will have to go on the hunt for good ones like all the other 4dr/wagon owners.
 
that should do it! lol
 
check it out send us pics and we will be more than happy to help you out!
 
Can always text me the pics and will help you out!
I am retired and available all day everyday 785 717-5725 
 
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-June-2015 at 1:14PM
All the other parts and pieces are pretty available both new(suspension/brakes) and used for all the other stuff, we can usually get you anything you need.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drkness01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-June-2015 at 3:16PM
1. Vinyl roof. From the pictures the vinyl is cracking. I plan on stripping it and sealing the top with a black metal primer (after any repairs). Ive seen some plastidip tops that look pretty decent.

2. Original paint. Other than sun fading issues and loss of clear coat it looks fine. 

3. Just finished replacing the radiator support in my 76 Corvette. It cant be any harder...

4.-10. Im finishing up a body off restore on my Corvette. Rust is a horrible problem but ive learned a few tricks. My power bill increased by an extra $100 a month when I was sandblasting/welding the rust issues. 

Thank you for letting me know the main problem areas.

If everything looks solid and straight I plan on doing a few upgrades. LED bulbs in the dash, H3 headlight conversion, and maybe a caliper brake conversion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-June-2015 at 4:17PM
^^^ carl pretty much summed it up!!! mainly the rust issues! everything else is do-able

oh, and the lower corners of the doors for rust through! and rear wheel well areas for obvious rust!


Edited by californiajohnny - 29-June-2015 at 4:20PM
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2015 at 11:46AM
Originally posted by drkness01 drkness01 wrote:

1. Vinyl roof. From the pictures the vinyl is cracking. I plan on stripping it and sealing the top with a black metal primer (after any repairs). Ive seen some plastidip tops that look pretty decent.
2. Original paint. Other than sun fading issues and loss of clear coat it looks fine. 
 
1. Truck Bedliner, sprayed on, does a pretty good replacement. Just make sure it's got U.V. protection in whatever brand you use, DON"T get the kind with the rubber bits in it, and spray it evenly. Poor patches in the roof WILL show, as will the body/roof seams, so take some care with roof repair.
2. The original paint didn't have a clearcoat, so if it has a peeling clear, it's not original.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD
How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2015 at 5:04PM
I used SEM Tintable bedliner on my roof, we strained it and did not put in the grit.
You tint it with whatever paint color you want. Spray it with a LARGE nozzle spray gun.
My painter used a gun he uses for large metal flake painting.
Then we clear coated it. LOOKS GREAT!
 
Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-June-2015 at 5:31PM
Originally posted by drkness01 drkness01 wrote:

1. Vinyl roof. From the pictures the vinyl is cracking. I plan on stripping it and sealing the top with a black metal primer (after any repairs). Ive seen some plastidip tops that look pretty decent.

2. Original paint. Other than sun fading issues and loss of clear coat it looks fine. 

3. Just finished replacing the radiator support in my 76 Corvette. It cant be any harder...

4.-10. Im finishing up a body off restore on my Corvette. Rust is a horrible problem but ive learned a few tricks. My power bill increased by an extra $100 a month when I was sandblasting/welding the rust issues. 

Thank you for letting me know the main problem areas.

If everything looks solid and straight I plan on doing a few upgrades. LED bulbs in the dash, H3 headlight conversion, and maybe a caliper brake conversion.
i know what you mean! i have a 74 corvette,yes i know about that core support, spent tons of time and effert trying to swap in a new aluminum radiator...PITA! hey post a pic of your vette Big smile
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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