Radiator help, Aluminum?

I know many have swapped to an Aluminum radiator or even got hold of a OEM style that is 4-core.

got a pic?

Edited by Regul8r - 13-July-2015 at 12:30PM

thanks!

i haven't had any issues with my stock radiator yet, but i'm keeping an eye on this if needed: same one todd is talking about.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/161655038022?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

excellent info!

I was just going to get the biggest one that would fit in dimensionally and custom make the mounts to make it suit.

I don't think I'd get enough cooling from an off the shelf ally direct fit rad unless it was for a big block

What is the part number on that one? Allan has really had good luck with his as well.

Good to see the A/C will work with it!

Edited by unlovedford - 14-July-2015 at 2:38AM

Thanks, John! Guess I'll order 2 of them. One for this one and one for Stripper.

Ahh. Distilled water to prevent mineral deposits? Good to know.

I have one as well, fit is not perfect. I can't use the radiator holder clamps, and I had to foam up the side of the shroud to make em seal, some cutting required to clear the lower hose as well.

Ordered my CC390 radiator today! Thanks for those who gave the input!!

Sure, I used 2 separate Derale 16749 controllers sending an "ON" signal to (2) separate 75 amp relays. I did it this way due to the fan motors pulling more than 25amps at start-up(the Derale units are rated for 25amps) and have some-sort of a "fail-safe" if ever 1 of the fan motors goes AWOL. This also requires 2 separate sensors(they come with the Derale units), (1) in T-stat housing, the other I made using a "T" cast iron fitting w/ brass NPT to barbed fitting inline in the heater hose(the sensor does not require it to be grounded for it to operate). Doing it this hides the fittings and sensor while cleaning up the wiring. I wanted a reliable sensor and not the push-in style that can be troublesome and/or unreliable(fallout or hokey looking, IMO) I used the Green/Red stripe wire as a turn-on signal(power supplied when key is in "ON" position), through a Bosch relay and protected by a 5 amp fuse, to not only energize/turn-on my 3G alternator but also my Edelbrock electric fuel pump, Holley electric choke and both Derale fan controllers. The Bosch relay supplies the needed amperage/voltage and the 5 amp fuse protects the vehicles wiring back to the signal source under the dash. The Derale units also have an A/C override input wire, this activates the fans to come on when the A/C is switched on, even if the engine hasn't reached sufficient temp to operate the fans. Another PLUS is that the Derale units are adjustable, you can set the turn-on temps to whatever you like and the turn-off temp is 10-12 degrees lower. I run a 180 T-stat and have the controllers set to 185 for the bigger fan and 195 for the smaller fan, both are set to operate with the A/C override. I previously had a 160 T-stat but kept the temps the same so I knew the T-stat was completely open and stayed that way when the fans cycled on and off. I did purchase a fuse holder from a foreign car to use as an underhood distribution block to ease wiring now and in the future if an electrical expansion is required. I have plenty of pics if needed. The system sounds complicated and although it requires a bit of wiring, it has proven to be bullet-proof for more than 2 years in the Florida heat. If you want, you can go to my Supermotors site to check out my install(amongst other things), there have been some upgrades under the hood but the cooling fan system is basically the same. I mounted the fan controllers and 75amp relays beside the battery on the fender side, this hides it but still allows temp adjustments if needed/wanted. The Windstar shroud requires very little trimming for it to fit the rad core size, it the pics it shows where I riveted a 3/4" X 1/8" flat stock to the inside of the shroud for the top shroud to radiator mounts. The bottom mounts are just 1" wide X 1.5" long with a 1" bend then riveted to the bottom of the shroud to fit the factory U-clips I installed in the radiator's bottom flange. If any info is needed/required, don't hesitate to ask. Hopefully this will help. 

To make it more movement free I have an option/opinion that may just work and be almost invisible.  Weld a 1/2 x 1/2" angle iron piece to the bottom of the factory upper bracket near the forward position to take up any clearance then trim/cut the rubber insulator to protect the radiator's mounting tab where it would contact this bracket. Hopefully this will help.

Edited by aquartlow - 20-June-2017 at 11:16AM

I used factory stock lower insulators with no issues, all the movement was taken up by "tweaking" my upper mounts. Good luck and keep us posted.

Overall I think the Champion radiator is a nice unit for the money.   I did learn or figure out some mounting options that may help someone in the future...

Upper:
I found that you can use 2 x the passenger side upper radiator brackets with rubber isolators from a 93 mustang.  You would need to buy 2x these kits and cut the upper rubber mounts in half and used the thickest part of each half in the stock bracket.  It literally grabs the top tab on the radiator with no slop and holds it in the right position.  It will hold the tabs on teh radiator perfectly without having to weld or change the mounts.

This shows the stock mounts and 93 mustang rubber...very similar:


This shows a 93 mustang upper bracket with the 93 rubber, if you buy 2 sets of rubber take the uppers and cut them in half.  Keep the thick tabs and install in the upper bracket it fits the radiator mounting tab perfectly.  You can use 2x the short stock bracket with this rubber without having to modify anything else for the top:


I tried to take a 93 mustang upper radiator bracket and pound it out to straighten it.  Its the same size, length, and has hte same mounting as hte stock short bracket.   I simply couldnt get it to look nice in the end.  Perhaps someone who has better equipment or skill can straighten it to work for their application.

Lower:
This is where I decided its just not worth it.  The new 93 mustang rubber lower mounts will work well but you have to make a bracket to hold them to keep them from rotating in hte support when you slide the radiator left/right.   I have so much to do; long work hours, etc.   This just isn't worth it to me if I had to pay myself for the hours spent. 











Conclusion:
I tried the recommendations mentioned and it slides around in the lower mounts using the stock rubber isolators in my car.  Not sure why mine isn't working with the mods recommended.  I can't get this to fit without making alot of changes to the lower mounts.  I've just reached my limit for custom brackets and nuts bolts...by the time I finished getting new rubber, more brackets, spending hours modifying, and buying misc parts...I'm spending another 100-150 for odds and ends (not including the time)    Basically, It looks more like a mustang radiator rather than one for a Torino.   I'de rather just get the stock re-cored by a custom shop (3core) or maybe order one from Griffin that fits in the stock mounts.   I feel that its worth spending another 200+ to get a radiator that fits without all these mods.  




Edited by BackInBlack - 28-June-2017 at 2:42AM