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Rear Shock choice KYB or Monroe Load Adjust ???

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tonym9 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21-September-2015 at 11:54AM
72 FB, iron headed 460 with headers and alum intake, factory ac, factory Ranchero 460 front springs with a 1/2 coil cut out, front KYB gasadjust shocks, completely rebuilt front suspension with Energy Suspension poly bushings except for strut bar bushings which have new factory squishees, 1" factory front sway bar from Ranchero. 2 inches of rear lift from custom Eaton coil springs. Factory Q code 73 FB rear sway bar. 

Either a 2.75 or 3.00 TrakLoc. 

Plans are to go all Sphon rear adjustable LCA and fixed UCA to plant the torque...carving a corner isn't high on the list, but I do want it to handle better. Spohn parts are for elimination of wheel hop as #1 priority. 

This is a tribute to my first in 1987, so it's got to have the right rake = rear up. Will have 295/50/15 BFG rubber rear with 15x10 SS's with 4.5-5 inch backspace, 235/60s up front on 14x8 SS's = dumptruck handling in the corner..... 

Here's the dilemma: 1/2 sag right side rear. Not sure why, coils have less than 100 miles on them in 7 years. Out of warranty. 

CHOICE OF 2 REAR SHOCKS, WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE? 

1. Monroe Sensitrac Load shocks with the internal spring: Should level out the rear end and will also help when I have back seat passengers. Downside is rear end not planted as well and I would guess a softer feel = possible wheel hop

2. KYB gasadjust: Have read harsh on the rear end. But should help with planting if the rear shocks anywhere near as stiff as the fronts. 

CAR HASN'T BEEN DRIVIN IN 5+ YEARS AS I'VE BEEN REBUILDING IT. 

....started it this weekend with some assistance from another 73 FB lover since I blew out my elbow at work !!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2015 at 12:27PM
i have KYB's on my car they seem to be ok. i don't have any wheel hop in my car, but the GM cars that have a similar 4 link suspension like ours, will be prone to wheel hop when raising the rear of the car... the trick with those vehicles is to fab and weld a bracket to raise the upper control arm mount about an inch higher than factory at the differential bracket! not sure if that would work on our cars but similar in theory.
  as far as cornering better... i swapped out my sway bars for 1 1/8" front and 7/8" rear! much better cornering! Big smile
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2015 at 2:00PM
Thanks Johnny. It's been a long project run...interuptions after interuptions. I'm a few weekends away from the alignment shop...it'll go without inner/outer fenders or front end...but it'll drive there!

I'm gonna go with the KYB's since you think they aren't harsh. I hope the Sphon parts help to plant the rear. I remember my first Torino/460 would wheel hop bad but it was factory rear suspension. If I have to raise the mounts I'll do it after the first launch, thanks for the tip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-September-2015 at 11:59PM
X2 on the 1 1/8" front sway bar, especially with the weight of the 460/C6. I would recommend having the front clip installed before heading to the alignment shop, the extra weight WILL make a difference in changes that the shop will need to do to get the front end into spec. KYB here as well, good choice, never have had a problem with wheel hop(factory LCA's that were boxed). Good luck and hope your restoration keeps progressing.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BadHabit351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 2:21AM
KYB's on the back of my 72 as well. I love the spring / shock combo that I have now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 1:18PM
+1 on the front weight w/out clip...i have 3 bags of blasting media in 50lbs bags I plan to put on each horn and one center core support once it's on the rack. I figure that clip is worth about 150lbs.

After being on jack stands for 18+ months it's finally on the wheels and settling nicely. In about an hour it already had a bit of a dip on the front....can't wait to see the rake saturday. I actually got to drive it 6 feet forward and then back in my garage...sounds silly but that is the most I've driven it in years and it felt GOOD. 

Seems the KYB's are liked...good, they are cheaper than the monroes 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 1:33PM
I was referring to the KYB Gas-a-justs(hopefully these are what you have or are contemplating in purchasing as well), not sure about the quality/ride of the KYB GR2's(cheaper model). The extra weight will definitely help with getting the alignment "close". I know what you are going through in regards to time not being driven.  

Edited by aquartlow - 24-September-2015 at 1:34PM
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 2:14PM
KYB gasadjusts...roughly 40 each for rears
Monroe Sensitrac Load Adjusting Cargos are 60 each for rears

Do y'all think 150lbs is about right for 72 front clip?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 2:18PM
I'm thinking it's closer to 200...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2015 at 2:37PM
idk??? 150 may be ok for a 72? but 200 for the 73 - 76 with all the heavy crash bumper stuff (that the 72 doesn't have) but a little extra wouldn't hurt to account for you in the vehicle driving, as you probably won't be sitting in it while he's doing the alignment Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 12:15AM
Why not just wait until it's together?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 12:31AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

idk??? 150 may be ok for a 72? but 200 for the 73 - 76 with all the heavy crash bumper stuff (that the 72 doesn't have) but a little extra wouldn't hurt to account for you in the vehicle driving, as you probably won't be sitting in it while he's doing the alignment Confused
 
Believe it or not, the last time I had an alignment done the tech put about 150lbs of ballast(bags of lead shot) in the driver's seat to simulate me being in the vehicle(although I haven't weighed 150 lbs since I was 12 years old Embarrassed). I would say 200-250lbs is realistic, fenders w/inners, hood, bumper, header panel, grill, lights, wiring and etc, really add up quickly. Wish there was a definite answer of how much a front clip weighs, different years of course would change the figures.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 1:22AM
Good point about driver ballast. Ill put some inside. Going with 200lbs on the clip.

The front clip off gives full access to upper control arms etc. it's WAY off since I rebuilt entire front end. This way all of my nice new engine bay paint doesn't get trashed by not having room to work around a 460

I'm taking a chance on a shop 2 miles from my house. Young kid there, says he has done many old school alignments. If he can get the caster and camber right ill be happy. I expect to have to take it to a different shop tho. Well see.

Open headers, no front clip, expired tags/inspection from 08, mostly side streets except for a half mile stretch...first ride is gonna be interesting...running outlaw. But I'm going to have my wife lead in my truck and ill have a tow rope handy just in case
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 1:28AM
The align is 730am next Saturday. Going isn't an issue. It's coming back. Lots of traffic by the time he's done
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 1:49AM
Running a new 460 with open headers on it's maiden voyage Thumbs Up, you'll have to stop at a couple of places. 1) Gas station....obviously.  2) Auto parts store, just to browse a minute or two, enough time to have the parts counter person question your ride and tell "his/her" Torino story and of course a customer or two that'll add their 2 cents to the conversation. Don't be in a "all fire hurry" to get back, even most cops will give a thumbs up/grace to you(look the other way) when they see/hear your BBF Torino. Oh, you'll need to find a bridge if possible, BBF/open headers/slightly enclosed eviroment=sweet music when on a small WOT hit. Good luck.
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 2:54AM
I think 200 pounds on a '72 front clip is close. Fenders, inner fenders, hood, bumper, bumper brackets, bumper reinforcement (U shaped piece), header panel, headlight buckets/lights/trim, grill/surround, valence panel. I would bet 200 pounds is a minimum amount.

'73-'76 front bumpers with the shocks weigh over 100 pounds by themselves. Add in the front clip and you are banging on 300 pounds at least.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BadHabit351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2015 at 3:01AM
Fenders are 40 lbs each, hood is 70 lbs, headlight buckets, grill, and header panel are 35 lbs, bumper and mounts are 45 lbs. I used 250 lbs as ballast for mine.

These weights are approximate since I weighed mine for the exact same reason. Set your toe in and camber so that it "looks right" and drive. I was only out 3 degrees on the drivers side and had the toe within 1 degree.

I got really anxious when I finally got my car running. I took it for a spin without any sheetmetal on the front at all.

Here's the video http://s19.photobucket.com/user/BadHabitinVA/media/Torinodrive_002.mp4.html?sort=3&o=34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tonym9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2015 at 3:04PM
first launch...no hop...two very long beautiful lines. ahhhhhh that felt good. It was limited to inside the culdesac and blending into the street. It would have kept roasting the wore out cooper cobras for a while after I lifted for sure. 

i'm not sure about the sphon rear end parts now...maybe just energy suspension bushings are enough with the kyb's to plant the rear end. However, the adjustments for pinion angle make for better hook up...decisions...

everything is secured with straps, ready to travel a few miles and back next weekend....nothing crazy. 

alignment is next on the to do list, then inner aprons and underhood stuff 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2015 at 6:25PM
I have a topic related question if anyone might have an answer. Does anyone know if toe in changes drastically with added weight?

I just replaced / reinstalled the steering linkage and my toe in about 3/4" without sheet metal, engine or transmission. I was pretty sure I had the count right when I disassembled the tie rod ends but 3/4" seems extreme.


Edited by lynchster - 26-September-2015 at 6:26PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2015 at 6:56PM
The toe shouldn't change much, if at all. Counting turns is a ballpark wild guess to get you to an alignment shop and that's about all. Different parts may not be  exactly the same.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2015 at 7:02PM
with no motor/trans no front sheet metal it would be off, but 3/4" still seems like a lot! but with everything on ready to drive the toe in should be like + or - 1/8"
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billy C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-September-2015 at 7:16PM
I think through the range of travel toe probably changes a little. I'd have to go back and check out the geometry again. It's been a while and I've had some other projects in the works so I can't remember. If there is any front bump-steer it is minimal.

Also no one recommended the Bilsteins. What's the deal? Way better than the KYB stuff any day. KYB, Keep Ya Bouncin... 

If people stop buying the good stuff they will stop making the good stuff.Cry


Edited by Billy C - 26-September-2015 at 7:18PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2015 at 3:09AM
Thanks guys! I was trying to wrap my head around the physics involved but I couldn't get to the measurement I was seeing. I'm going to set it to spec with a tape measure and have it set up once I've got it assembled and running.........eventually.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2015 at 9:57AM
Tony  went with the KYB shocks and after a solid year, I have no complaints aside from I almost feel they are too soft a shock...but honestly it's solid, controlled ride without killing you. 
I am looking to replace my rear coil springs here due to a sag issue on my GTS.

My rear springs are 1975-1976 Thunderbird coils from Moog. 

I've thought about Bilsteins but have had Paul say in his experience they rattle your kidneys.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote papadeath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-October-2015 at 6:52PM
KYB, thats what I have and this Ranchero handles very well, or would if I were planted better, but this is due to my factory rear springs (only thing I haven't changed yet), and still being at stock height in the rear, oh yea and my crappy street tires, soon to be upgraded. If your car was sitting for any length of time, you'll get fatigue quicker in the springs and shocks than if you were driving like you stole it. Any vehicle should be stored on blocks.
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