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Roof Rail Weatherstriping

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felix1978 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote felix1978 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Roof Rail Weatherstriping
    Posted: 07-March-2016 at 10:13AM
Hey everyone, sorry I have been gone for so long, work has kept me away from spending time on here or on my T-Bird. I've been getting back to working on the car and I had a very unpleasant surprise today when I tried to figure out why the interior had developed a funny smell. The passenger side floorboard was wet, with the rear footwell holding almost three inches of water in it (the front end is on jackstands so it all ran back there). I'm still working on getting the seat out so IO can pull the carpet and dry the floor out, but I am fairly certain that the water came in around the door window at the roof rail, which is pretty worn out.

I was wondering if anyone had a source on new weatherstriping for the rails that is known to fit so that I can replace mine to prevent this problem from happening again. Currently I am picking up a tarp to cover the side of the car since the next couple days are supposed to be quite rainy here.

While on the topic I would also like to ask about sources for the other weatherstriping on the car as well as if anyone has a line on good replacement carpeting that is a match for the original colors, I am fairly certain that I will not be able to save the sopping remains of my original Chamois cut-pile.

Thanks,
Scott
1978 Thunderbird
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-March-2016 at 11:07AM
Steele rubber was supposed to be producing weatherstripping for rancheros, which use the same glass.
Never followed up on it, as I filled the divots in mine with plasti-dip.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
Randy
1979 T-Bird
2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD
How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-March-2016 at 11:16AM
I can tell you the aftermarket seals(door and roof-rail sourced from Dearborn Classics-Dennis Carpenter produced seals) have a different durometer(hardness) than the original sponge rubber seals. After spending over $300 on new aftermarket seals and being frustrated with their fit, I ended up buying NOS seals which was a definite improvement over the aftermarket pieces. The harder roof-rail seals does not allow them to conform to the window glass as well as the originals, wind noise and water leaks "shouldn't" occur with new re-pop seals, but that is what I ended up with as well having to almost slam the door to get it to fully close. Go NOS if you possibly can, try rearcounter.com with your part numbers, hopefully you will find the needed parts. Good luck. 

Edited by aquartlow - 07-March-2016 at 11:17AM
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote felix1978 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2016 at 1:50PM
What about the seals available from Class Tech Cars on eBay? Through quite a bit of trial and error with search keywords I found that they had been recommended as a replacement for this general model in the past, or at least the window felts had been. They are apparently American made and much cheaper than the reproductions sourced through the normal restoration supply houses.

Scott
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californiajohnny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2016 at 2:45PM
i used the felts and door seals from classtech, i was real happy with the fit and quality Thumbs Up
 i think the drip rail seals were from mac's? i'll have to check through my receipts...
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-March-2016 at 4:31PM
if the ranchero seals are the same... i found this link buried in the archives here

 https://www.weatherstripspecial.com/ford-ranchero-weatherstrip.php

 you may want to contact them to check on availability!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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felix1978 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote felix1978 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2016 at 11:07AM
Thanks for the suggestions, worked on the floorboards a bit today, got the seat and seat belt out on the passenger side. The paint under the carpet is just flaking off on its own and the seam sealer just peels off with almost no effort. This is going to be an interesting project to handle, especially since I have no extra storage space for the seats so at the end of the day they are going to have to be stuck back inside the car for their protection.

I am thinking of taking the floor to bare metal in places where there is surface rust of the paint is flaking off and then either coating it with brush on Rustoleum type stuff, or going with brush on bedliner. I have heard pros and cons on both and am unsure which way I am going to go. Gonna have to figure out how to replace the seam sealer and what to replace it with too.

Scott
1978 Thunderbird
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2016 at 3:01PM
if you have a automotive paint store near you they should have what you need, i'd recommend a urethane seam sealer, and for the areas where you can't get the rust sanded, you can use "rust mort" it's made by SEM for down in the cracks, and yes brush on bed liner would work well, it should be a urethane as well which can be painted over DO NOT USE SILICONE!!!
 BTW SEM also makes a rust paint called "rust shield" you could use that for paint and use the bed liner over that for added future protectionWink
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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felix1978 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote felix1978 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-March-2016 at 5:47PM
Hmm, looks like the Rust Mort recommends rinsing after use, which seems like it might be kinda hard to accomplish. Aside from removing the seats and carpet the rest of the interior needs to remain mostly intact and in place. Adding more water to the mix is something I am a little wary of.

Scott
1978 Thunderbird
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californiajohnny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-March-2016 at 1:34AM
hmmm??? i've never rinsed it! just dab it on with a brush on the rusty part not clean metal
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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