Boat engine? |
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NorthElite
Member Joined: 22-February-2015 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 11-March-2016 at 5:17AM |
I copied this one here from my project thread. Maybe this can be better under Small Block Forum
My engine is 351W and car is 1976. So I was thinking that my engine is also 1976 engine. Block casting number is D4AE-6015-AA3 and I think that it is from 1974 Head casting number is 8E24 OR BE24 and it is 1968? There is also this stamped number. I was confusing with all these numbers, and then I read this label from valve cover. Model number 584APRMED. Google found this one http://www.boats.net/parts/search/OMC/SternDrive/1989/584APRMED/parts.html I think this engine is OMC Cobra Sterndrive boat engine from year 1989. What I have found from google this 1989 engines are rated 260-285 horse power engines. Optimized Low and middle range. Is it HO version or not. I don't know it. Heads intake looks like this... Do anyone know more about these boat engines? What is this? Is this good or bad thing? |
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kychevyguy
Senior Member Joined: 16-December-2013 Location: Lexington KY Status: Offline Points: 1996 |
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JT, USAF Ret./Architect
1971 Ford F100 "Lizzy" 1971 Cougar XR7 "Kitty" 1984 Chevy Silverado "Sylvia" 2009 Smart Fortwo Cabrio "Lil Dude" 2015 Volvo XC60 R-Design "Sven" |
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unlovedford
Senior Member Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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If it is indeed a marine engine, that is a very good thing. Marine engines are typically built with continuous higher rpm operation in mind, and may have forged internals. Camshaft profile may not be optimum for a street car, but that is easily changed. Basically, marine engines have better performance parts in them than production street factory engines, as they are built for durability under high rpm operation.
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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NorthElite
Member Joined: 22-February-2015 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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I can easily change the Camshaft at this point now in my project. I like low end torque and fast response from engine. I also like it run nice. My car is not going to be a race car... Can You recommend me some camshaft to this engine, to drive it on the streets and roads? Edelbrock performer camshaft? |
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Ranchero Fan
Senior Member Joined: 03-March-2011 Location: Chicago area Status: Offline Points: 1022 |
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I don't have any data on the numbers, but I do recommend that it was for sure a marine eng & somebody didn't just use valve covers from one, make sure the coolant passages are clear of rust and scale. Especially if it was run in salt water. I swapped a '69 351windsor into my '67 Mustang back in the day, & she was quite healthy. I can't remember the cam I used.
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Brian 1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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antlerfiend
Senior Member Joined: 14-June-2010 Location: Louisville,KY Status: Offline Points: 3023 |
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If you want low end torque and quick response. Don't change the camshaft. These engines have cams that are designed for that. They are made to get the boat on plane quickly. I just don't know what the upper end of the RPM range will be.
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Alex
72 GTS (Morgan's Baby) 68 CJ Drag Car Clone 65 Mustang (first car) 77 LTD II (Drag Car) 78 Mustang II V6 4 speed |
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unlovedford
Senior Member Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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The normal marine cams do provide the low end grunt. The rods, and other internals are made for the ability to run for extended periods at high rpm. Just good stuff. I had a Sea Ray with the 4.3. Block froze, so we swapped everything into another block. Basically race parts inside. Like mentioned, check for any rust buildup.
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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D4xx casting doesn't necessarily mean that it's from the 1974 model year production, it's just not from before 1974. you'd need to find the actual engine assy date stamped in by hand to know, and it may be coded also like Ford does?
D4xx is when that casting was modeled & may have been used for several or more years afterwards
Edited by Rockatansky - 12-March-2016 at 6:19AM |
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72 GT Ute
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NorthElite
Member Joined: 22-February-2015 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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At this point I'm sure that this engine is OMC boat engine. Block was painted with same color what OMC is used. But anyway, this looks good to me. I can live with that engine.
I found some spec. Idle speed 600-650 rpm and full throttle range is 4000-4400 rpm. Edited by NorthElite - 12-March-2016 at 7:37AM |
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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what's the budget for a cam & related items?
do you have a supplier near you that can provide the cam & parts for the 351W ? you should be aware that there's a little more to the job than just slipping in the cam & calling it usually you'll need valve springs, retainers, locks, shims for a complete install ... and that's after the heads have been gone through to repair the valve guides & restore the seats for a fresh service life now the news, stock Ford valves are , do yourself a favor & replace them with quality 1 piece stainless steel valves. don't let this happen to you! also, replace the connecting rod nuts with ARP. the stock nuts fracture in the threads and the result is always blamed on the rod bolt itself which is not the case. after the motor thrashes itself to bits in the oil pan the connecting rod bolt gets the blame when it's actually the threads in the nut that failed
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72 GT Ute
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NorthElite
Member Joined: 22-February-2015 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Thank You. I have drive that engine one summer few years ago. It was working OK. I have more than enough with all body work At this point I don't like to spend more time to my engine. It's good enough now ...I need to hold my horses with engine. Except I only paint it and some new parts on New pars are not a problem and here is also very good metal-shops. Maybe good aftermarket head can be cheaper and more flow heads anyway... Well I have time to thing all that. One point what makes me nervous is camshaft Run-In procedure |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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cam break-in is not as hard as it sounds... you can start and run it for 10-20 seconds just to make carb or timing adjustments if needed, when you think everything is good to go start it and bring it up to a fast idle at 2,000 RPMs for 20 minutes, then shut it off, let it cool for an hour or whatever and recheck and retune or readjust anything and you should be fine, just use regular oil ---no additives or synthetics! i've always done all my engines that way and i've never lost a camshaft yet
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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lynchster
Senior Member Joined: 07-January-2006 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 2150 |
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8E24 May 24, 1978 8 = year 1978 E = month May (no I used) 24 = day 24 http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDateDecoding.html
Edited by lynchster - 13-March-2016 at 12:55PM |
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Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport 13 Taurus SHO "Mr Pig" |
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