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New brake system fill & bleed procedure

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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25-July-2017 at 8:06AM
OK guys,

Everything brake related has been installed and ready for fluid! This is a TOTALLY NEW AND DRY system so I'm not 100% sure how to proceed. Should I fill the master and start at the RR and work my way forward or is there a certain procedure to follow to insure all air is out, proportioning valve centered and brakes nice and firm? Also bleed with engine off to bypass the power assist?

Never done a completely new system before so I thought I'd seek advise from my Torino brethren to insure I didn't screw anything up!

THANKS ALL

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 8:27AM
Joe,
 I just gravity bleed the system(fill the Master Cylinder and open the bleed screws at each corner) until I get fluid at each corner, then close/tighten each bleeder screw. Once all the bleeders are tightened/closed, I then pressure bleed the system, starting at the farthest bleed screw from the MC and working my way toward the MC. Starting with PR then DR then PF and finishing with DF. Always keep an eye on the fluid level in both MC chambers while gravity and/or pressure bleeding the system. I find having one end of a clear piece of 3/16-1/4" hose attached to the bleeder screw exit and the other in an empty water bottle with the hose ran through the water bottle's cap helps you see when fluid is exiting the bleeder screw without having a mess on your floor or tires/frame/suspension parts & etc. Hope this helps. 


Edited by aquartlow - 25-July-2017 at 8:32AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmaxtorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 12:01PM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Joe,
 I just gravity bleed the system(fill the Master Cylinder and open the bleed screws at each corner) until I get fluid at each corner, then close/tighten each bleeder screw. Once all the bleeders are tightened/closed, I then pressure bleed the system, starting at the farthest bleed screw from the MC and working my way toward the MC. Starting with PR then DR then PF and finishing with DF. Always keep an eye on the fluid level in both MC chambers while gravity and/or pressure bleeding the system. I find having one end of a clear piece of 3/16-1/4" hose attached to the bleeder screw exit and the other in an empty water bottle with the hose ran through the water bottle's cap helps you see when fluid is exiting the bleeder screw without having a mess on your floor or tires/frame/suspension parts & etc. Hope this helps. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2017 at 10:07AM
Pretty much what I did, except I bench bled the master cylinder before I installed.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-August-2017 at 7:42AM
OK guys we seemed to get a bit ahead of ourselves this weekend and forgot to gravity bleed prior to starting the bleed procedure. Embarrassed

We bled the Master Cylinder first, got it purged of air, reconnected the lines and jumped into the bleed process...

As is the norm, we started at the RR brake and I pumped while my buddy cracked the fittings. As I started my initial pumping, the pedal was very firm but after a few move strokes, I felt it give just a bit and then resume it firmness. Jim cracked the fitting, a bit of fluid came out but the pedal never budged nor went to the floor. We continued for several more sessions until my leg gave out from pumping and we got just over half a Mity-Vac container of fluid out of the RR cylinder. Once my leg recovered, we proceeded to the LR wheel cylinder with similar results.

After a rest period and I was able to stand and walk again, LOL, we proceeded to the fronts. The RF was next, pumped it up (never really did get a soft pedal) and when Jim cracked the bleeder, the pedal sank to the floor as is the norm. Once the RF was completed we moved on to the LF with similar results.

With the fronts bleeding normally, we thought we'd have a go at the rears again to see if they would now bleed correctly, but sadly the pedal never would sink and rebound as it should.

This leads me to believe the proportioning valve is now off center and blocking fluid flow to the rear braking system. Now the question is how do I reset the Pressure Differential Valve (the center pin)? Will pulling out/depressing the pin on the Bleeder Valve release the pressure differential to allow the valve to recenter itself?

Thanks for all your input......

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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