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Here it is..my '73 GTS Fastback! |
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crispy23c 
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Joined: 10-November-2007 Location: New Hampshire Status: Offline Points: 1100 |
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 Posted: 05-May-2009 at 1:03AM |
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Bumper mount, one awaiting final coat and one waiting to be done. Had to use TONS of degreaser on this car...probably what saved it, all the grease!
 Edited by crispy23c - 05-May-2009 at 1:04AM |
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starsky76
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Joined: 28-March-2008 Location: vegas Status: Offline Points: 1385 |
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Posted: 05-May-2009 at 2:31PM |
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Nice new reconned parts!Good work.Those bumper clips are way different than a 74-76,glad ford changed them.lol
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crispy23c
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Posted: 06-May-2009 at 4:25AM |
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Yeah, the clip that holds the square bolt is about 2 1/2" long and made of spring steel. A real cruddy setup, but these should last at least another 20 years...still have to re-do the wiring harnesses on the rear, and I have another nice original set to swap in.
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crispy23c
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Posted: 15-May-2009 at 11:31AM |
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So...I had the Torino out for a little flogging today and....blew the front tranny seal on the C-6.
I finally got the thing to stop leaking- for about 2 months and this happens. Just did the rear tranny seal. What was I thinking???
Not a happy camper, but it could always be worse I guess. Just a little irritated.
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crispy23c
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Posted: 27-May-2009 at 10:48PM |
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Hey, I got my report back from FoMoCo yesterday on the GTS. Very interesting set of options:
Color: unknown (it's black)
Black Vinyl Top
325 rear end
AM Radio
Comfort weave bucket seats
Console
Heavy Duty Suspension
Tinted Windows
A/C
Steel wheels & hub caps
NO body side moulding, NO Laser Stripes. Like a loaded sleeper, pretty cool IMO...
And it was pretty cool of Ford to send this to me!
Does anyone have the spec on the difference between HD and standard suspension? Got to look into that...
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:42AM |
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Here's the letter from Ford:
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:47AM |
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More Pics of the factory grease markings that I found. For those of you restoring them, colors of the grease markings are as follows:
Rear diff cover is white grease pencil (Marked "B1")
Side of rear diff is yellow grease pencil (Marked "M")
Front bottom of rear diff is orange (Marked "4c")
Hope this helps...
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:49AM |
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The "M" is on the passenger side of the differential:
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:53AM |
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The "4c" is on the bottom of the diff, and this shot is from the rear of the car, in case you are needing orientation
No, that's not grease, I had just degreased the whole bottom of the car before the shots. It was really ugly down there!!! Yes, that's an aluminum drip pan for flooring.  New floors to come hopefully soon...
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:54AM |
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Looking better now....need to add the grease markings...then I will replace the lines down there...
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crispy23c
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:56AM |
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Here's the front of the diff all cleaned up too.....original diff tag still in tact
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starsky76
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Posted: 30-May-2009 at 7:07PM |
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Looking good chris!I won't be able to come up to visit,I'm leaving tuesday and getting ready to head out.I like that ford report,going to get one once I'm settled in vegas.
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crispy23c
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Posted: 31-May-2009 at 3:17PM |
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Thanks, Ralph! Little by little...Too bad we can'r meet! Who knows, maybe I will get out there and we can meet anyway!
Take care on your trip and good luck!!!
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GaryFi
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Posted: 31-May-2009 at 6:46PM |
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I like what you've done underneath. What exactly did you use to degrease and repaint under there? Did you pull that axle out or did you manage to do everything while bolted on?? |
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Starsky and Hutch Limited Edition #559 in rehab
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crispy23c
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Posted: 01-June-2009 at 5:02PM |
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Thanks, Gary!
First, I got under there with a plastic putty knife (okay, 3 different sizes) to remove the heavy junk. Then, it seemed like 40 gal's of "gunk" engine degreaser and a pressure washer. But some stuff (it was undercoated) just would NOT come off.
So I used 'Aircraft degreaser and Stripper'. Got it at Autozone. Comes in a spraycan or jug. I prefer the spray, but you better mask off anything you don't want stripped!!! This stuff eats through just about any finish and is water soluable so you can rinse it off afterwards.
I sprayed that stuff on and used several wire brushes, a scraper, and a few other implements to get in the nooks & crannies of the rear end assembly. DO NOT get it in your eyes or skin as it will burn. And let it sit for about 5-10 mins before you start scraping. Just about everything comes off very easily with this stuff.
After that, I let it drip dry, then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Then each assembly was wire brushed, #80 sanded, then #180, and in some of the finer pieces a quick scuff with #220. Then rinse, drip, and microfiber to remove rust dust and residual moisture.
Then I masked off everything I did not want painted and shot it under the car while it was up on ramps. If you feel that you cannot get to the whole assembly then pull it off. I am lucky. I am flexible and have very long arms!
The air shocks DID help out, I got to admit it. Also, remember to be very particular with your painter's tape so you get a good line. I also use various pieces of cardboard for a quick mask that I can move as I shoot the car. No wind counts ALOT too.
Hope this helps...if you need any more info let me know! Edited by crispy23c - 01-June-2009 at 5:06PM |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 27-August-2009 at 12:54PM |
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Okayyyyy, so today I started my brake job. Everything in the perimeter that I touch gets restored as I go, so it slows down the process alot, but it looks great when I finish and I don't have to touch it again...
The entire interior is gutted, stripped, cleaned and repainted. The entire dash is almost out, the entire dash cluster was taken out, cleaned, bulbs all replaced, every contact cleaned, and I am waiting for my plastic restore kit so I can clean my dash plastic. Clock is out so I can get a quartz movement for it...
Nearly every wiring harness in the interior has been pulled apart, cleaned, inspected, and re-connected...located a NICE sway bar, and the bushings came in today so I will be restoring the bar next week.....
pulled out master cylinder, booster, pressure block, cleaned all parts, wiiress, brake lines and installed new Master & booster and restored area around under & over it. Cleaned & repainted gas, brake, & e-brake pedals & hardware. Tomorrow-ish it's new calipers, rotors, and bearings for both fronts and wheel cylinders for the rear. I swear I will post pics soon, but when I am getting greasy I have a hard time pulling my self away from the beast and snaping the pics I should be snapping!
~Chris
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 3:57PM |
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Well, this week some mice moved in, they are now out...
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 4:01PM |
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Air cleaner assembly came out and was R&R'd:
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 4:02PM |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 4:02PM |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 4:03PM |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 4:06PM |
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Console R&R- note the Torino crest...hard to find!!! (and whole interior was stripped out, cleaned, repaired/refurbished as necessary, and refinished):
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 5:04PM |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 07-September-2009 at 5:15PM |
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Dining room/staging area shot...wife wants to KILL me!!!
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ramair351
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Posted: 08-September-2009 at 6:39AM |
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awesome use of the living room floor! you dont have to worry about kids picking up parts and playing rocketship with it?
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-Pete
1972 montego GT 1970 Torino cobra SCJ 1970 mustang mach 1 1965 Falcon futura |
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Uante
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Posted: 08-September-2009 at 8:44AM |
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Interesting thread Chris. Nice work! What kind of paint are you using underneath? Looks Great.
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'73 Gran Torino Brougham
'63 Econoline Standard Van - Brent *USAF RET* |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 09-September-2009 at 1:53AM |
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You like the living room? Me too!
Kids know it's the forbidden zone until the pieces are out of there (I hope next week, to my wife's relief)....
As far as the paint, I discovered a long time ago that Krylon Special Bar-B-Que matches the gloss (and is VERY durable in the engine bay area and backside of the rear-end) perfectly. Main thing is prep, prep, prep.
I sanded each piece with 100 and 220 grits, degrease them and wipe each with denatured alcohol 2 or 3 times, prime (with self-etching primer), sand, mask-off the area with painter's tape and newspaper, and paint. Rustoleum works nice for self-etching primer.
For the front side of the diff, No sanding as it's textured, but the same process but for the top coat, and I used VHT hi-temp aluminum. It's pretty chip resistant and heat & oil resistant. Been using that one for years, too and I like the atomizer on that one, it's pretty consistant.
Hope this helps...
~Chris
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Uante
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Posted: 09-September-2009 at 2:21AM |
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Perfect...I used similar paints on my other cars. Just didn't do as extensive of a prep job, but I'll go further seeing your results. I like the hi-temp aluminum idea! Really looks good.
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'73 Gran Torino Brougham
'63 Econoline Standard Van - Brent *USAF RET* |
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crispy23c
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Posted: 09-September-2009 at 12:04PM |
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Thanks! Really, the spray atomizers on the cans today are much better than before, and with a little extra care & prep the parts come out nicely. I'll be posting more pics of suspension work either tonight or tomorrow, all done in this manner.
That Bar-B-Que paint has a nice satin finish and is very durable, by the way...lasts for years if applied right.
~Chris
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crispy23c
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Posted: 10-September-2009 at 3:35AM |
Some before and after shots of the brakes, lines, etc...
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