Carburetor changeover

danzafra wrote: Hello All,  I am just new to this forum and helping a friend overseas with his rebuild of a 70 Torino GTS.  Several questions were thrown at me and hope I can find answers.   The existing Ford 351 v8 engine has a 2barrel carbuerator, Can we upgrade to 4-barrel type Carbuerator?   - Do we need to change the Exhaust Manifold too?

The 429 and 460 intake manifolds have the upper radiator hose entering at the front of the manifold, but it faces in the upward direction. There is a picture of one below. The 460 engine was not used in the torino until 1974.

Edited by pete rad - 17-February-2022 at 3:00PM

To determine which engine is in the car you will have to look where the upper radiator hose is connected to the intake manifold. If it is a 302, 351w, 390 or 428 engine, the radiator hose will connect to the intake manifold at the front of the manifold facing the radiator. The arrow in the picture below points to it.

Edited by pete rad - 17-February-2022 at 2:58PM

Edited by Rockatansky - 17-February-2022 at 12:47PM

Thank you for the reply Inkara1

Hello Rockatansky,

should we replace the intake manifold?  then re. the Carburetor existing is 2 barrell type, we would like to 

upgrade to 4 barrell? or 2-2-2- Barell setup or 4-2 barell ? which among this is the best combination for the engine?

Thanks

danzafra

You can put on a 4-barrel carburetor but you would need to change the intake manifold too.

Excellent, glad to hear good news sometimes.

As I continue on with trying to correct a small vacuum leak, I also had the issue of car won't start easily when recently shut off. Reading previous posts I decided to remove the carb as I noticed vapor(s) coming out of the carb horn area. I could see gas seeping into the carb with an inspection mirror and a flashlight. Long story short, I pretty much determined the gas in the bowl was slowly dropping when the car was off. ( Lid removed.) This afternoon I rebuilt the carb, all new parts, and the vapor issue/hard starting when warm problem is now gone. Also my vacuum has gone up a couple of inches. I am pretty convinced the accelerator pump check valve was leaking......time will tell. Just some information for everyone of the forum. FOOTNOTE: I also decided to reinstall the metal plate I talked about earlier, using some RTV, thanks for that advice, and put the new (carb kit supplied) fabric gasket between the metal plate and the base of the carb, hope it stays leak free.

Edited by Rivercrest - 18-October-2020 at 2:12PM

So here are some pics, taking VOTES now on which parts to use, including RTV sealant only as an option...........note the gasket material that was on the manifold side of the aluminum plate. Note: manifold has been cleaned up today.

Quote : what is this 1/8" aluminum plate? does the intake manifold have a functional carb heat passage drilled through
in a 'worm channel' in the carb pad beside the throttle bores, but no EGR plate?

is this 1971 351C-2V in your 74 Cougar or something else?

Yes, this motor (1971) is in my '74 Cougar.....The thin metal plate is over top of the worm channel. There was a thin gasket between this plate and the manifold but after 49 years it has burnt away. Go figger. Then there was a fabric gasket and then the carb. I have limitations for remounting the carb considering the length of the studs but I could put in the spacer I have which came with the walker carb rebuild kit. No picture of this gasket on their instructional website. No EGR vaive on this puppy. I want to do the best I can the first time.

Summit has 2-bbl spacers here:

heated lines will mostly cause a vapor lock, but i have solid plastic phenolic spacers on many of my cars that really reduces the boilover effect! or heat soak if you will.and if you have a holley or edelbock square bore carb they can be bought from several suppliers on ebay for $10- 15 with gaskets and studs included
 if you have the 4300 spreadbore cleveland carb i'm sure rock has a handy link to one to fit that