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74-76 GRAN TORINO RADIATOR

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tjbooker View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01-April-2009 at 3:01PM
WHAT KINDS OF RADIAOTRS ARE SOME OF YOU GUYS USING, MY CAR IS 400 HORSES AND IS RUNNING TO HOT WITH A STOCK RADIATOR, I'M LOOKING FOR A GOOD ALUMNUM RADIATOR.
ANYONE HAVE THE MODEL NUMBERS DIMENSIONS, OR IDEAS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BBPeik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-April-2009 at 2:43AM
Do you have the heavy duty radiator?  Mine is a 73,  but I had the heavy duty rad and seems to cool fine.  I am running 400hp as well.  As far as aluminum I can not help sorry.
1973 Gran Torino Sport 357 Cleveland FMX 3.50 auburn pro posi 1969 Black Jade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-April-2009 at 4:33AM

I know a guy that changed the rad, pump, fan, thermostat in that order and his engine still overheated. It ended up being a defecive rad cap. My advice would be to replace the cheapest parts first.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zebra03 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-April-2009 at 6:20AM
I went with a Summit flex - fan and mine cooled right down , but I am not runnin near the hp you are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tjbooker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-April-2009 at 7:53AM
I HAVE THE DUAL ELECTRIC FAN SET UP, BUT IT BLEW THROUGH A CHEAP , I THOUGHT GOOD RADIATOR. MELTED THROUGH THE PLASTIC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote castillo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2009 at 9:01AM
There are 3 basic designs in FORD radiators..
1. Standard cooling
2.Extra cooling.. Yes ford states extra cooling
3.Heavy duty cooling
and all 3 plus A/C
The most common size radiator is the standard cooling.. It's core measures 17 27/32x1-1/2x28.. Its basic part # is D3AZ-8005-A
this was in 73-79 passenger cars with engine sizes up to 351 cubic inches.. This includes the Q-code 351.. If your car has A/C it came standard with extra cooling.. It's core measurement is 17-27/32x2-1/4x28 and its basic part# is D3OZ-8005-B and that radiator was standard on 400cubic inch engines and larger..
Police,fleet,taxis and wagons all came standard with extra cooling radiators.. D3OZ and D3AZ-8005-B..
The Heavy Duty non-A/C radiator is D2VY-8005-A and measures 17-27/32x1-1/2x 29-1/2
D2VY is a lincoln part number
The Heavy Duty radiator w/A/C is D2VY-8005-B and measures 17-27/32x2-1/4x29-1/2
This was standard on cars which came with tow options and certain gear ratios..
The cut off appears to be 3.25 and numeric higher ratios..
As a note the D3OZ 2-1/2 core is the service replacement for 48 and I stop counting cross referanced radiator tag numbers.. This includes D3AE,D1AE,D2VE,D2DE and a host of others..
By seeing the lincoln is the highest rated radiator.. That radiator may be a simple swap for our cars.. 
This was just a quick over view.. I'd be willing to bet there are lots of  exceptions to these rules..
Just so you know all ford standard cooling radiators are 2 core.. Whic means our radiators cycle the cooling 2 times before its returned to the engine.. I don't know if the larger ones are, but I believe the extra cooling are 2 core radiators as well..Heavy Duty may have been the only 3 cores from ford in passenger cars..I also believe most shops only sell 3 core radiators for our cars
My dad told me 2 things.. Always drive FORDS and never marry women with names like CHERRY,PEACHES and LEMON
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote castillo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2009 at 9:20AM
Sorry to many D3's and D2's.. The correct service part number for the 2-1/2 inch wide core is D3OZ-8005-C and not D3OZ-8005-B.. Yet the D3OZ-8005-B is by far the most recommend service replacement in the service books..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2009 at 9:37AM
Not to be overly simplistic, but 5 or 6 years ago, I hit  up radiator barn.com, ordered a unit for a 76 Torino with a 460 and A/C and called it a day.. has no problem with my 523" and dual fans.
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2009 at 3:22PM
I have a Howe universal 2 core aluminum from Summit Racing..  Just another solution, but it did require a little custom work.  Combined with a Lincoln Mark VIII fan it works pretty well on the 545.
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannys73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-April-2009 at 4:40PM
To everyone on this thread.  Take it from an old Modine Radiator Sales and Operations guy.  Tap water is not your friend.  Use only distilled water.  Make sure you are using a 50/50 mix.  More Antifreeze is not better......the water is actually the coolant.  Booker, I would almost bet if you shined a flashlight inside your radiator so that you could see the core rows, you would probably see alot of green and white powdery looking substance (electrolysis caused by stray current accentuated by minerals in tap water).  Aluminum radiators show electrolysis via black spots outside the radiator and by springing leaks. (Check your grounds folks) Aluminum is definitely the way to go but you will sacrifice originality.  Also, Bigger is not always better.  If you start adding rows, but don't increase the airflow across it to compensate for the extra row, you will also have an overheating problem.  Finally, the quality choices of your OEM Copper/Brass radiators have all but disappeared (Modine got out of the aftermarket Biz in 02) and the ones out there are mostly coming from our "Mainland" buddies overseas.  Long story short, a competent radiator shop can rod out and clean your current radiator or add a 3 row core to it so that you keep that original look.  If you want to replace, go for an All Aluminum version.  A quality 2 row aluminum radiator is a heck of a lot lighter and will out cool a 4 row copper/brass unit.  I hope this helps.
1973 GTS Q Code Cobrajet w/ 4 Speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2009 at 4:39AM

Danny, seeing that your the Rad specialist, maybe you can answer a question or two. Can a OEM Rad be modified for increased flow like an Aluminum Rad and still keep the original look? Where I live the water is almost mineral free, can I use tap water and a can of anti-rust, pump lube additive with tap water?     

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannys73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2009 at 5:23AM
Yes it can be modified some.  By this, I mean, a radiator shop can remove your oem tanks and install them on a larger core with the same dimensions.  They can probably find a core with larger tubes and/or another row (I am assuming that you have a 2 Row) to flow more water.  One thing I left out on my previous post is that you want to make sure you have a fan shroud (whether OEM or Fabbed).  You would be amazed at the difference a little piece of plastic or sheetmetal can make on helping you stay cool.   Copper/Brass is alot more forgiving than aluminum is where it concerns tap water and electrolysis, but Any time you buy a new radiator chances are if you read the warranty information it states distilled water.  It isn't expensive at all.  As far as additives, that should be fine.  Do not EVER use a stop leak product of any kind to stop a leak.  Have the leak repaired by a qualified Radiator shop or replace the radiator.  All a stop leak does is block tubes and take away cooling ability.  Finally, if you are going to replace your radiator, ALWAYS, ALWAYS flush your engine till the water is clean before putting that new equipment on.  Nothing kills a new radiator and its warranty quicker than old rust and scale from the old cooling system.  I hope I have helped.  Please keep the questions coming.  I have been out of the cooling business awhile and I enjoy cranking the old memory banks up and reusing stored knowledge for the benefit of others.  Have an awesome day. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tjbooker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-April-2009 at 8:09AM
THANKS for all the help and suggestions, my radiator originally was the heavy duty tow
package with a/c, but with the motor rebuild and increased hp i wanted a new radiator.
should have had the original redone. the radiator is a three row, and i only used fifty fifty
premixed coolant, no tape water. thanks for that tip, i got that from you guys many months ago before i even put the motor in. Anyhoo, no with the suggestions i have some base to start from. you guys are the best! thanks. i got my current one from 800 radiators.
it's actually 34inch across 2in wide.
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