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Classicfitness View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14-October-2009 at 2:08AM
Hi,

My engine (351/4) did not work for about 10 years.  So I took the spark plugs out, shotted loads of WD40 in the 8 spark plug holes.  Then I tried the ignition key just to make it spin to see if it's stuck.  I could hear the starter, but nothing in the engine.  I did not want to fry my starter, therefore I did not insist too much.  I'll put more WD40 next time I go to my storage.  Is the best options would be to manually unstuck it by moving by hand the part attached to the starter in the back of the engine?

I'm sure it must not be stuck as hell, this is why I dont want to rebuilt or open it.  It's only 20,000 miles after all.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Sleepy




Edited by Classicfitness - 14-October-2009 at 2:09AM
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



My car blog: www.fordtorino72.blogspot.com
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Why don't you try pouring some Marvel mystery oil in each cyl? It has worked for me in the past.
Gary 73 Gran Torino Sport 351CJ,17 Mustang Ecoboost,15 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD, Ford Ranger parts hauler


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Originally posted by Torinogts73c Torinogts73c wrote:

Why don't you try pouring some Marvel mystery oil in each cyl? It has worked for me in the past.

Hey thanks :)
How do you pour it?  With a funnel, you put some trough the spark plug holes?
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



My car blog: www.fordtorino72.blogspot.com
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To turn the engine by hand i would turn the crank with the harmonic balancer bolt. It should be a 15/16" bolt and it's right in the center of the crankshaft pulley. I should be easy to turn with the spark plugs out since you won't be building any compression.

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Don't get started on this until you read up on how it needs to be done. Freeing a stuck motor (or even one that you think isn't that stuck) is a process and if you skip steps you'll end up breaking rings off instead of loose.

Never use the starter to free a stuck motor. That's what the crank pulley is for. Get a nice LONG breaker bar, 3/4" drive, the 15/16" socket, some form of lube (WD-40 is fine, MMO is better IMHO, even diesel fuel will work). Then follow the directions here:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Freeing_a_stuck_engine

Edited by occupant - 14-October-2009 at 4:56AM
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I went through the same thing a while back with a "built 400" I saved out of a 72 GTS I got rid in an act of stupidity some time ago...I let the engine site protected, went to try to roll it over. Locked solid.
Turned out the engine was a boat anchor. broken rings, frozen pistons.
I needed the rods out of that motor for a buddy, and I literally had to take a 3 pound mini sledge and beat the pistons out of the bore on 3 of the rods.
Reason: blown head gasket and antifreeze that rusted the bores around the pistons.
it was a mess. 
Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
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Thank you all for the help.  I will keep you posted as I might go to the car tomorrow.  

Originally posted by jharley79 jharley79 wrote:

To turn the engine by hand i would turn the crank with the harmonic balancer bolt. It should be a 15/16" bolt and it's right in the center of the crankshaft pulley. I should be easy to turn with the spark plugs out since you won't be building any compression.


Thanks for the tip but is there any risk of loosen up the bolt?
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



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Classicfitness View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:

I went through the same thing a while back with a "built 400" I saved out of a 72 GTS I got rid in an act of stupidity some time ago...I let the engine site protected, went to try to roll it over. Locked solid.
Turned out the engine was a boat anchor. broken rings, frozen pistons.
I needed the rods out of that motor for a buddy, and I literally had to take a 3 pound mini sledge and beat the pistons out of the bore on 3 of the rods.
Reason: blown head gasket and antifreeze that rusted the bores around the pistons.
it was a mess. 

This does sound worst than a nightmare.  I will pray that it is not my case Confused
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



My car blog: www.fordtorino72.blogspot.com
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The crank bolt won't loosen if you turn it clockwise. 
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diesel fuel, marvel mystery oil or automatic trans fluid in all cylinders.  gibbs is an EXCELLENT penetrant and ill work on that.  wd-40 is about useless and wont do a damned thing.
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I have a 76 400 2bbl that was rebuilt and had about 3-4,000 miles on it. Sat in a field never being started for 13 years... I  got some fresh gas, and wd-40'd each of the cylinders and hit the ignition switch and she fired up after about 20 seconds! boy the smoke!!!!
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After a couple months of putting mmo oil trough the spark plug holes, I did slide a 3 foot pole on my ratchet to manually move the engine.  It did move slowly and easily. Clap  
I guess patience is a good quality for these kind of problems.  One thing though...is it normal that manually moving the engine is hard?  I am asking because if I only take the foot long 1/2" ratchet, it is too difficult.  I need my pole otherwise it wont move.  Is this because the engine is all sticky inside?



Edited by Classicfitness - 03-February-2010 at 9:46AM
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



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It should move easily with the foot long ratchet with the plugs out,if not it probably has some significant rust and ring damage/cylinder wall rust.It has sat for 10 years. It doesn't matter how much mileage is on it,same thing will happen to a new motor if you just let it sit in same conditions. I'd seriously consider a rebuild and do it right. Even if it does run it won't last long before the rings fail.Hate to give you the gloom and doom,just telling it from experience.
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Originally posted by starsky76 starsky76 wrote:

It should move easily with the foot long ratchet with the plugs out,if not it probably has some significant rust and ring damage/cylinder wall rust.It has sat for 10 years. It doesn't matter how much mileage is on it,same thing will happen to a new motor if you just let it sit in same conditions. I'd seriously consider a rebuild and do it right. Even if it does run it won't last long before the rings fail.Hate to give you the gloom and doom,just telling it from experience.

Thanks for the input.  You are right, this "Q" code deserve a good rebuilt.  Not sure I can do it right now though.  

Just for informative purposes, if I take the pan and the heads off, can I take the pistons out without removing the engine out of the car? 
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



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 What happens the iron and aluminum fuse almost together. The aluminum starts to become like bromo seltzer over time. This is in extreme cases. If you can find a bore scope or a inspection camera from a tool renal place  you can inspect the cylinders before you tear down anything.
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The best thing to do is to pull the engine out.
It's far easier to tear into the engine that way, and with the issues you have, you are going to have to tear it down regardless, and out of the car and on a stand is the best way.
Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
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I have striped down several stuck engines . It does save alot of time plus you change anything that will need to be replaced. The engine will be clean and fresh. Get rid of that aluminum and nylon timing chain.
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Originally posted by Eliteman76 Eliteman76 wrote:

The best thing to do is to pull the engine out.
It's far easier to tear into the engine that way, and with the issues you have, you are going to have to tear it down regardless, and out of the car and on a stand is the best way.


Originally posted by interceptor460 interceptor460 wrote:

I have striped down several stuck engines . It does save alot of time plus you change anything that will need to be replaced. The engine will be clean and fresh. Get rid of that aluminum and nylon timing chain.

Thanks for the advices.  Engine rebuilt will be on the "to do" list soon enough.
'72 GTS 351-4b Gold Glow

'75 Elite 400 Polar White



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