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Intake manifold

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moose0211 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07-May-2010 at 12:58PM
I am doing the intake manifold tomorrow,so can you guys tell me how to do the gaskets. ie. how much permatex, glue etc.?
Thanks
Lou
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SquireCJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-May-2010 at 3:59PM
If this is for your 351C and you are using an after market manifold such as an Edelbrock Performer, don't use the rubber end pieces, just coat the ends with thick coat of Permatex making sure you get a good build up in the corners where the ends meet the heads.  I have installed the intakes with and without the end pieces and with and without using any Permatex along the heads. I think the key is properly torquing the intake.  Another thing that comes into play is the fitment between the heads and the intake if there has been any mill work done to the heads or intake.  Do you knw the torque specs. and sequence for the intake?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 3:49AM
Thanks, I now have all the pieces off, but there is a metal thing under the intake that has a gaskets. I do not have those gaskets so should i permatex it? what is hte china wall? URGENT PLEASE HELP!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 5:30AM
the metal thing is proabaly the stock valley pan and you don't need it just follow SquireCJ's advice use the permatex on the ends and if you want your can use gasket tack for the sides but don't really need it if your using an aftermarket intake.just make sure you follow the correct torque sequence and torque the bolts down to the correct specs.Some of your auto parts stores such as AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts have a lend a tool program if you don't have a torque wrench but don't just tighten them by hand without one.

Edited by 73 ProStreetTorino - 08-May-2010 at 5:32AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SquireCJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 5:44AM
The Valley pan helps to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake, some people do not use them, but they do come from the factory with them and I have always used them. The new pans are commonly sold separate from the other gaskets.  AutoZone sells the pans for @ $22.00 If you are going to get a new pan make sure you get the correct one for the heads you have.  The 4V pan has larger port openings than the 2V pan.  Some people reuse the old pans, I like using new ones and reduce the possibility of vacuum leaks when installing.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 7:59AM
okay thanks, I am past that. How do I remove the throttle and kickdown linkages off the stock carb.?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 8:30AM
get a hacksaw or big hammer and smash the crap out of it till they fall off,LOl just kidding.
do you meen the cable and the kickdown rod? or do you meen the part attached to the carb that the hook to? the new carb should have the hook up for the throttle cable and kickdown unless it's not designed for a Ford then that is an issue in itself.Otherwise the kickdown rod has a C clip holding it on and the throttle cable should just pop off as the clip stays with it and just snaps onto a ball on the carb linkage. If it's a Chevy carb like a Holley or something then you either got to rig it ot get the right linkage for a Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 9:35AM
I already took a hammer and a saw and beat the crap out of it, so, do any stores sell the parts? I dont want to wait or shipping LOL. Now, I can not get the kickdown cable to reach the kickdown on the Holley, is this fixable?   
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 11:11AM
gotta ask the Holley guys as I couldn't get my Cleveland to idle with a Holley and went through 3 carbs trying then bought a Carter AFB 600cfm which is Edelbrock carbs now, and they are set up for the Ford linkage so I had no modifications to worry about cause I bought a Carb designed for a Ford engine.I had a feeling when you asked that you put on a Holley and I was right.This is one fix I can't help you on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 11:21AM
Thanks for reasponding. I am dieing to know, what is an econo car/project? Hey Paul, since you ran this carb on your torino, where did you get the linkages and stuff? Sorry guys, this is my first one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote picon3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 12:59PM
The location of the connection for the kickdown rod is right where the "C" clip is in your picture.  I was running a C6 transmission; do you have the right kickdown rod because they are different from FMX to C4 to C6?  I suspect that's the problem or it's the length/curve of your rod or the connection to where the rod is to the transmission.  Call me if you need to.  Paul~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 1:35PM

I think that I have the correct kickdoown rod because it worked fine with the old setup. The rod will go into the the connection on the carb, but I have to move the connection back about half way. I think that this is too much. If all else fails, I may do something like this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/08/ThrottleLinkage/index.php  just to make it meet. Is this a good idea? Here is a pic of the stock carb.    

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 2:36PM
Moose a econe car project is a little 4 banger economy car that is good on fuel.I bought it wrecked in 2003 and got a side clip for $250 at the local yard I cut the whole side off a car with a sawzall as the car got T-boned right in the passenger side so it needs the complete side.
I bought the car for $400 and got a set of Mitsibishi Aluminum wheels for $40 so I have about $700 into it plus whatever it takes to build it.
Life got in the way but I have everything so I don't have the heart to junk it as that would be throwing money away.Someday I'll hack it up and weld it back together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SquireCJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-May-2010 at 8:39PM
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5%20rev.pdf
Quote Unless replacing an existing Holley Carburetor, you may need to purchase Holley P/N 20-91, spring and perch kit, for Ford automatic transmissions

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-May-2010 at 1:02PM
I already have that part, thanks for mentioning though. I bought some parts today to hopefully make the cable and the kickdown rod work. I will try that tomorrow. Do you think making the kick down rod longer will mess with shifting? I will also do the distributor tomorrow. Has anyone done an MSD conversion?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote picon3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-May-2010 at 2:59PM
Did you get the problem sorted out? Paul~
1972 GTS 351CJ-4V black/black
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-May-2010 at 11:56PM
Yes, I decided to just move the kickdown lever back and hook the kickdown rod to it. We will see how she shifs. For the accelorator, I just drilled the hole bigger and slid it through the hole on the carberator. You guys make this stuff look so easy! lol. Today I am doing the ignition and wiring up the choke, hopefully it will run good enough for a 30 mile ride to the body shop. Luckily, I know somebody who was a NASCAR mechanic so if I run into any big trouble he can drop bye. Thanks for the help guys. On a side note, I got a dearborne catalog today and I am thinking about converting from green to either all black, or black dash, carpet, and then white seats, headliner and door panel. All in due time. -Lou

Edited by moose0211 - 11-May-2010 at 11:56PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote picon3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2010 at 2:15AM
Lou,
Good news.  Keep us all posted.
Paul~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2010 at 2:49AM

Ooh just saw this. When I went to my Holley, I had to lengthen and bend the rod. You want it set so that the the lever activates fully when the carb is at WOT. The arm can be however long it needs to be. I welded a section of tubing in mine, but you could easily do a slip fit setup with some copper pipe and some hose clamps if you dimple the copper pipe on each end to lock it over the kickdown, if you are without a welder. 

Edelbrock and Holley sell kickdown rod extensions, but I prefer my setup.. 

Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moose0211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-May-2010 at 12:14PM
I already made a piece that will fit nicely, I will bolt that up tomorrow. Aparently, I ought the wrong wires because they do not fit on the cap. I think I am going to try bending the ends before I buy new ones, just to see. It will turn over but not run and its raining now so, have to wait untill tomorrow!
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