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Aluminum Heads - exhaust ports

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GranTorinoSport View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Aluminum Heads - exhaust ports
    Posted: 01-September-2010 at 11:13AM
For any of you who are using aluminum heads with altered exhaust ports a question:

What exhaust are you using and how did you make it fit?

I am having an engine built for me and one of the options was a Pro-Comp AL head, but the exhaust ports are raised (?) from factory, so it would cause fitment issues. I am aware E-brock and others make AL heads with exhaust ports in factory locations, but those options were higher than my budget will allow.

I wanted to check and see if anyone else had crossed this issue yet and how they solved it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmaxtorino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-September-2010 at 11:32AM
Pro comp heads are junk. Check the threads at 429-460.comDead
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2010 at 5:16AM
Not exactly a helpful reply nor totally accurate.  They make good power on a budget if you can port at home.  As for the effect of the raised exhaust port, You'll have to try the headers out and then worst case a little cut/weld/ding to get them to fit. 
 
I'm using the Kaase SCJ's with 6126 headers with no major fitment issues.
 
Jim
1976 S&H Gran Torino

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545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-September-2010 at 7:51AM
My gray car has 6126 headers, with C9VE heads, and the block was decked a bit... the headers are very close to the cross member on the drivers side. 
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-September-2010 at 8:34AM
With the raised ports, the problem might be the a-arm or the top of the frame (or in the worst case the trans crossmember).  But if the block has been decked, that might even out a little..
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-September-2010 at 5:08AM
To be safe I chose to go with iron heads, then there is no guesswork. I did not want to spend the extra for a nice set of Edelbrock heads, nor did I want to change an exhaust fitment issue later down the road when I got the engine. I did not want to be required to fabricate anything special, etc.

I think the 460 is going to be enough of a tight fit without added issues...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-September-2010 at 3:37PM
Well you can make plenty of power with the iron heads, but before you start spending on them, check out the Kaase SCJ heads from Lem evans on the big block site.   They are as good as well ported irons, lighter, and the 6126 headers fit them in the 72-79 midsize chassis..
 
Jim
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VorbottenO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-September-2010 at 1:57PM
If I had it to do over, I would have used the Kasse or new Ford racing SCJ heads that have Kasse influence. By the time you have CI heads reworked properly (new valves, porting, etc...) you could have a set of bolt ons that can handle virtually anything you can throw at them HP wise and reduce weight.
Most likely you will end up trimming the tubes for the raised ports or I think you will be hitting the frame and/or gear box on the driver side. Headers are hard enough to get in on that side to without raised ports.
Also, if you have an A/C car (with housing) and plan to use roller rockers, you will not be able to utilize tall valve covers. I ended up using stock height and extra thick gaskets to get clearance.
 
Eric
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2010 at 12:07PM
Originally posted by VorbottenO VorbottenO wrote:

If I had it to do over, I would have used the Kasse or new Ford racing SCJ heads that have Kasse influence. By the time you have CI heads reworked properly (new valves, porting, etc...) you could have a set of bolt ons that can handle virtually anything you can throw at them HP wise and reduce weight.
Most likely you will end up trimming the tubes for the raised ports or I think you will be hitting the frame and/or gear box on the driver side. Headers are hard enough to get in on that side to without raised ports.
Also, if you have an A/C car (with housing) and plan to use roller rockers, you will not be able to utilize tall valve covers. I ended up using stock height and extra thick gaskets to get clearance.
 


Thanks for the info! I do plan to use A/C, and I did request factory valve covers if possible.

As far as the heads are concerned, as I just wrote in my project blog, I did get a different set of heads. They are still cast iron, but a different brand that makes an improved flow head with stock location exhaust ports. I can't remember the brand name (I had never heard of it before), but they sounded nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2010 at 1:59PM
  I enjoyed the free advice from you guys and am porting and polishing my dove heads myself. The economy is trying to hold me back!!  My 514 planns are not happening so I am going to rebuild my stock 429,dove-A with flatt top pistons ported heads, and not sure if I should go with a vic or torker intake yet but am hoping to use hooker headers with 3" collectors. I feel like the dove heads are the way to go from reading  up on them. Not sure how much HP I can get .
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-September-2010 at 11:49AM
DOVE heads can make 700hp with the right supporting components.  Check out the various 429-460 forums, there are couple real knowledgable folks on there regarding factory stuff.. Scott at Reincarnation High Performance out west is one of the folks that can really work on a set of iron lungs and is really helpful to the DIY crowd...
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-September-2010 at 5:58AM
Jim,

I found out what I am getting on the 521 - it is the Scott Johnston D3 new casting heads with his revised exhaust ports (and other improvements I presume).

According to Carl, they flow almost as good as a set of Edelbrocks, and I suppose that is probably good enough for me. It is good enough to bump the HP and TQ rating of the engine significantly at higher RPM.

Most importantly, however, with these heads I won't be wishing three years down the road that I had sprung for Edelbrock heads...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-September-2010 at 5:12PM
That would/will make one heck of a sleeper setup..   500+ inches, hi flow iron heads.  You could make that look 100% stock with 500/600..
:-)
 
Jim
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2010 at 10:08AM
Exactly what I am looking for!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2010 at 1:51PM
 I envy you !!! They looked like the best option to me , Not having the experience in this. I have welding and milling skills from school and the navy. I have decided to replicate what scott does.
   I will finish the intakes when I have the manifold to match it to. My over all dia, is 2.04 on intake and 1.97 on the exhaust. I also removed the smogg bump. 
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2010 at 2:06PM
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2010 at 2:44PM
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2010 at 4:12PM
You'll be fine - there are plenty of tips and tricks on 460Ford.com, I think it will work out just fine.

Welding experience in the Navy - very cool. That will take you a long ways.

D0VE block also. Very cool. The block I found (before I decided to go crate engine from Carl) was a D9 block. Some like it, some hate it. It has longer skirts in the block for more stroke, the 545 guys can benefit if the wall castings are thick enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2010 at 2:12PM
  It wont be a daily driver at all, maybee 15 days before it gets inspected. But I too cuoldnt afford what I wanted . I opened up the intake ports and made an even transition / taper all the way in.
  I also opened the sides above the valve seat and got rid of all the casting bumps. The exaust - got rid of the smogg bump and opened up the sides from the valve seat and all the way out, them polished everything with brass brushes. You can see what new gas does to the high comp exhaust valves in this pic .
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2010 at 2:13PM
72 gts fst bk in 1982 !!
currently building 73 fast back with a dove-a 429.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VorbottenO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-October-2010 at 3:44PM
Have you thougth about cams yet?
I had finished my D0VE set up about 3 months ago and after break in, started driving the car to get some miles on it before heading to the body shop.
Running the Comp Cams XE274H and with the ported D0VE heads, larger valves, and roller rockers, the dyno showed 492 hp @ 5300rpm and 542lbs T at 4100rpm....
All that and only had to go a 2400 stall on the built up C6.
 
Now for the bad news.....after 4 hours on the engine and driving home notice a slight tap from the left bank. as I pulled into the garage noticed the same on the right bank.
Pulled the valve covers and found two rocker arms very loose but lock nuts tight.
Turns out I smoked two lifters and cam lobes.... (that one is posted on BBF forum)
Now in tear down for another go at it. Looks like something caused these two to stop rotating....arrrrrg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-October-2010 at 3:57PM
Did you use an oil with zddp in it or an additive? The machine shop where I got my 351W rebuilt made a point of insisting I use such a product to prevent premature cam and lifter wear. Apparently it used to be in most motor oil but isn't used much anymore. I've seen it mentioned here and on other forums so maybe you already know about it...just sayin'...
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VorbottenO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-October-2010 at 1:56PM

Oh yes I did.... played by all the rules except removing the inner springs. Typically cams fail early on in the break in process.

Can almost guarantee it is something I missed during assembly (push rod not totally seated, etc..)
Found one other unusal thing, 2nd cam bearing was out of position slightly and rotated so that oil holes were not in alignment. Never seen this before and I know it was in the correct position from the machine shop.
Having my engine surgeon diagnosing the failures so i do not repeat them but this is the 6th engine build I have completed so not bad to have 1 of 6 hit a snag or two.... think it has to do with old age setting in.
Eric
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-November-2010 at 4:27AM
Make sure that the cam spins freely upon installation (before lifters and such).  I've heard of a couple of 385 series where the cam bore wasn't totally straight leading to spun cam bearings and other carnage..
1976 S&H Gran Torino

460/C6/4.33 13.05@105.6

545/C6/3.56 11.52@117.8

More to come!!!!

463rwhp/495rwtq

two tons of fun

see it and hear it at:

www.torinocobra.com

www.st
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VorbottenO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-November-2010 at 12:17AM

Funny you mention that... Had one cam bearing rotated slightly out of position for oiling and moved 1/8" forward in the set. Cam had spun freely and smooth but sometimes that is not enough of a test.

Also identified that the exhaust valves are not rotating as they should. Intake valve stem wear patterns are perfect but exhaust while perfectly centered from the roller rockers have a straight line. May have too much lift on the cam for the valve guides used during rework but shop has it now for investigation.
Comp Cams did provide a new cam and lifters at 50%!
 
Eric
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