INFO: 1972-1979 Body Insulator Bushings - UPDATED

the sleeve and washers also set the overall height of the body mount against the others, they either have to be the same as original .... or different by the same amount or you'll pull the body out of shape with the mounts

Afraid I'm back with another question.  My original metal sleeves in the bushings measure 1 5/8", the new sleeves measure 1 7/8".  If I cut the new ones down to 1 1/4"  will they not be too short?  Or do I cut the new ones down 1/4" to equal the height of the old one?  I am getting ready to do the cutting, just want to make sure I am getting the right length.  thanks - dave

Thanks for all the info, it is definitely helpful.  John, the cart looks like what I was thinking about, the body is pretty much ready and is in primer but want to store it in a car trailer until I finish the frame.  Also just curious on this, I just got my body bushings and the bolts, which I understand are smaller than the original bolts, are splined towards the head of the bolt preventing them from coming out of the bushing.  I will be tapping them out and enlarging the hole to fit the old bolts but just wondered if this is how they normally come.  thanks again - dave

Edited by 1973gts - 23-May-2018 at 2:12AM

1973gts wrote: I am awaiting the arrival of my body mount bushings and just have a couple of questions.  The sleeves have to be cut to 1 1/4", is that the sleeve height or total height of the piece?  Also I would like to replace all of the bolts, what size has been used.  I also noticed in the Ford service manual the torque spec on the bolts is 20-30 ft/lbs, will that be enough to draw the bushing down to the proper height?  I was thinking to start there, let the body settle and if need be torque more.  And one last thing, my body is currently at the painters and the frame will not be ready before he is done, has anyone built a body trolley for storage purposes?  I am going to be building one but if someone else has already I would appreciate any suggestions on designs.   thanks  -  dave

the sleeve is what limits the crush of the bushings
 as far as a cart for the body... this is what i threw together for mine (doesn't really need to be 2' tall)

Rockatansky wrote: i would check the length of the sleeves on each body maount as you remove them, they may be / i think there are different lengths for different locations the factory manual may have the info in print

They are all the same length except for the core support.

I am awaiting the arrival of my body mount bushings and just have a couple of questions.  The sleeves have to be cut to 1 1/4", is that the sleeve height or total height of the piece?  Also I would like to replace all of the bolts, what size has been used.  I also noticed in the Ford service manual the torque spec on the bolts is 20-30 ft/lbs, will that be enough to draw the bushing down to the proper height?  I was thinking to start there, let the body settle and if need be torque more.  And one last thing, my body is currently at the painters and the frame will not be ready before he is done, has anyone built a body trolley for storage purposes?  I am going to be building one but if someone else has already I would appreciate any suggestions on designs.   thanks  -  dave

Yup...I used thread locker also....forgot to mention that.   I used the blue thread locker.

73GTS wrote: Make sure to use good thread locker.

+1

When I had my 75 apart I reused the existing bushings and nuts. Mistake because now I noticed the nuts have loosened up to the point of falling off. I need to tear it all apart and put the proper new bushings in the core support mounting anyway, but I'll be using thread locker or a comparable nyloc nut to ensure it stays secured.

I used a typical torque spec for 7/16" bolts.  I think it was 45 or 55 lbs.   Can't remember...sorry maybe someone will have the official spec.

They are metric...can't use them.

I had to buy new bolts from McMaster-Carr.  I think they were 7/16" and I used the phosphate (black) grade 8 bolts.

Partial update just bought a body mount kit for an 08 crown vic dorman part number 924-327 for about $250.

bill, i'm not sure on the 72, some guys said they used these and they fit fine, someone else said their 72 had smaller holes in the frame??? IDK but they worked great on my 74! i added a 1/8" thick flat washer welded over the hole in the frame to get the correct thickness and to reinforce the thin area from rust and wear of the original bushings.

californiajohnny wrote: sal, you just doing the two core support bushings? http://www.ebay.com/itm/310245534809?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648 you only need one set for the core support! the recommended plate thickness is your frame in the diagram, the core support sits on top of washer in the diagram

Hey guys. I just read through all this, as I'd like to order up my radiator bushing stuff. 

In needing body mounts for a 72 Gran Torino Coupe I can confirm what “73GTS” indicated “speculated” in his postings on 9/22/2008. I have used 2005 Crown Vic upper and lowers (UPPER MOUNT)6W1Z-5400396-A AND (LOWER) 6W1Z-5C155-AA;  Rock Auto /Doorman has one of those cheaper, then cut the sleeve down to 1 ¼”  and use the rubber as is.  Drive for a couple months then re-tighten. They mounted well, and there are 12 upper and lowers total. The most difficult replacements are the middle sections.  The hood does shake a bit still, but this could be due to needing appropriate fender hardware (bolts let me know if you can get some).  Otherwise the car is solid now.   Original body mounts were completely corroded, and rusted which made for a freaky drive.

I also replaced the springs with Eaton Detroit Springs heavy duty in back 0” reduction, and 1” lower in front, of which I took off another quarter round after receiving springs and seeing them on car.  It also takes some time for new springs to settle in and the front droped more after the below pic was taken; these cars must have shipped with a high front ends however.  Crown Vic Cop Shocks work well, steering gears from Red Head Steering Gears with a reduction gears work great and all new linkage from PST with large front sway bar. I haven’t done the rear swat bar yet, and have used all rubber (but I get it regarding polyurethane if that's your thing). 

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/Michael_Henry_Mellinger/Stance_zps8vulhllv.jpg

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/Michael_Henry_Mellinger/New%20Bushings_zpsq2aibn74.jpg

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/Michael_Henry_Mellinger/New%20Bushings%202_zpsf631wp5w.jpg

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/Michael_Henry_Mellinger/Steering%20Gears_zpsm054okd7.jpg

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy308/Michael_Henry_Mellinger/Rear%20Springs%20Shocks_zpsianj45gs.jpg

Edited by mellinger - 20-April-2016 at 3:32AM