INFO: 1972-1979 Body Insulator Bushings - UPDATED

From front to back

 

2- core support(NOT the same as the body mounts)

 

4- firewall front mounts

2-midframe ovals(not bolted just push nipples that hold in place

2-at the rear seat area in front of the rear control arm pockets

2- over the rear end on the crossmember in front of the spring pocket

2- on the rear frame rail just behind the wheel well(look in the trunk and you will see the round bump on each side for the bolt clearance by the wheel well on the trunk floor)

2 at the very rear on the frame 72-73, on the rear crossmember 74-79

 

12 Bolted mounts

2 oval "insulators" on the frame rails

2 core support mounts 

Also will have to make sure you raise the core support that same 1/4"

 

NOT a big deal in the long run but will drive you crazy wondering why the entire nose and bumpers do not line up.

 

Did you mean 12 on a 1972 and 10 on a 1973?

Ok...you mean 12 with the oval ones.   Really has been a rough few weeks for me lately. 

4 in front of body

2 right in front of axle 

2 right behind axle past the arch in the frame

2 at the back end tucked up behind the bumper

There are what looks like some guide pins mounted in the body to help align when you set the body back down.   I dont have any oval mounts in the middle.  I will double check.

Edit...yup got them.  2 of them each under the door hinge area.

They get stuck to the body most of the time and then when they fall out later you look at them all confused trying to figure out WHERE DID THESE COME FROM?

They help stiffen the body and frame from sagging in the middle.

 

Looks like 8 mounts on a 72-73...4 in front, 2 in front of rear wheels, 2 after rear wheels.  

Did i find all of them?   I thought there were suppose be 10 mounts..

I was hoping to be able to do it without taking the front clip off.   My plan was to get enough clearance on one side to clean up and paint the frame; not for looks but for protection.  Inspect and clean, then put the new mounts on and then move to the other side.   Trying to get the underside and suspension cleaned up and done before getting the beast painted.   Overall its pretty clean, even the bolts still have the zinc plating.  Its an Arizona car.   All the rubber, plastic, undercoat, body sealer, is cracking off and disintegrating.

O'well....plans change all the time

will the hoist make it that much easier?   I guess a run to harbor freight and get that 2 ton model...

Regarding painting...while its at the paint shop I was planning on taking the inner fender wells and radiator support off to get powder coated.   Figure I would work on the motor and trans last and defer the hoist till then.

Was planning to loosen one side (for a pivot) and remove the opposite side.  Then was going to use the jack (with a wood block on the rocker panel at the bushing location) to lift each side of the body and use 4" blocks between the frame and body to hold it while I work.   

 

Its obvious with a suspension, controlling deflection preventing alignment shifts due to impacts in the suspension.   It increases vibration/noise but improves the suspension; that's a good trade in my book.

 

By using poly; what does it fix that the rubber can't?   Just trying to understand what the advantages/disadvantages of using poly in a body mount?    Is lasting longer the only advantage?

 

Regards,

John

What is the advantage?

Thanks

John