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Rust Paint (POR-15)
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    Posted: 17-December-2010 at 2:36AM
thread for people to post experience and how to's for their rust repair PAINT.
 
What did you do, how did you do it (step by step), what products, and prices involved
 
I for one am looking for info on what I need to do to the body and frame.
Have read alot of the POR-15 pages
example of questions I have
 
1. sand/media blast vs wire wheel/sand paper clean up
2. Cleaning chemicals and pressure washing?
3. surface prep for rust paint
4. rust paint step by step (prep, primer, inhibitor, paint?) by product (what stuff to use for the product you used.
 
I see Rust stop primer at the stores that say you can paint over them after just some wash clean dry and scuff pad the bare metal
 
HOW do we use the POR-15 or other product start to finish stories 
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My expierence with POR-15 and Bill Hersch (same as POR-15) is to sponge brush or roll (done both) on right over everything. I found it worse to clean first!! If there is dust and dirt it lays better than on a somooth surface. I used the Hersch paint on the floor of my Ranchero I had and it was perfect when I sold it after 10 years. I used POR-15 on my Xmember on the Torino and it was all dusty and dirty with some rust but it looked Beautiful after an application of POR-15. I also used the POR-15 on my PS bracket after I sanded the heck out of it. Well it looks ok but I had fish eyes all over! It works better dirty. This is why they make an acid etcher for any smooth surfaces. Hope that helps some.

My Torino was also undercoated by Eastwood chassis paint by the guy who built it into a drag car back in the mid 90's. It still looks beautiful! 
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When I first used POR-15 it worked well but I was not happy with the look of the paint over the rust. I then used a wire wheel on my 4.5 inch grinder just knocking the rust down level and then I used their "Metal Prep" was over top of the rust stained and bare metal spots. The POR-15 layed much better, the finish was much, much better and the end result was solid. BUT, with POR-15 you need to scuff with a red scuff pad and top coat, even under the car, because it is sensitive to UV light and will degrade and lose its protection abilities.
 
Never used the Bill H. rust paint.
 
Now I use the Valspar rust preventative primer (red oxide) thinned with naptha thinner, sprayed with my conventional gravity gun, using the same procedure I used for the POR-15. Used the "Metal Prep" and top coated with the Valspar black, thinned and sprayed the same way.
 
$11 a quart for the Valspar vs $30-35 a quart for the POR-15.  PLUS, cleanup is much easier with the Valspar.
 
I buy the Valspar at Tractor Supply stores. Metal etch "prep" you can get at most auto body supply stores. Just my .02 on it.
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I am putting a lot of por-15 down on my Torino. I have been using the wire wheel and then wiping it down with xylol. Brushed on, it dries with a nice smooth finish. On a side note, wear gloves
Heres a crappy pic, the car is pretty dusty

Edited by Grande Verde - 17-December-2010 at 4:05AM
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I like Zero Rust much better than POR 15.. 


As stated. WEAR GLOVES.. Years ago, a gf at the time and I did some of my floors and frame on my Elite... No gloves. I had dinner with her parents the first time, two days later. Made for interesting conversation.
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Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

I like Zero Rust much better than POR 15.. 


As stated. WEAR GLOVES.. Years ago, a gf at the time and I did some of my floors and frame on my Elite... No gloves. I had dinner with her parents the first time, two days later. Made for interesting conversation.


Why do you like it better? Less prep, better performance? It seems (and I have not tried this) that POR-15 is fairly particular about the surface you are applying it to (ie, having to degrease, then etch).
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Price.
A little more forgiving on surface application (I've had lots of POR15 peel over the years.. Zero Rust, not so much. Still need to degrease, but just do a typical sanding job as you would do with any other type of paint.
can be thinned with regular paint reducer (POR-15 says not to if I remember correctly).
Cleans off the human body MUCH easier. 
While "UV sensitive" to a degree, like POR15, the colors available are much better.. They have a semi gloss that is close to an OEM chassis black.. No need for another top coat. 

I'm not getting paid by them as their spokesperson, but I switched to Zero-Rust. 
Paul
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some sites of products I found
Haven't price comparison yet but looking for the experiences everyone has with them...
 
 
 
 
or
 
 
 
 
 
hope that list helps!
 
 
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follow up on the POR-15
 
Said paint it over top of the rust, got it.
What about the need for the POR-15 cleaner and prep products?
NEEDED or not?
 
scrape the heavy grease and grime off the frame, scrape the heavy scale rot off, take the frame to the pressure washer car wash bay, cover it with an engine degreaser or something like that, then pressure wash the hell out of it, air dry and blow it off, then just roll/brush/spray it with straight POR-15 or one of the other products? Pour/spray it inside then roll it up on it's side and rotate it to ensure the product gets into ALL the corners and cracks/crevaces?
 
Easily repaintable/repairable after new holes are drilled or ground down for welding brackets on it??? ALOT CHEAPER than sandblast and powdercoat! Also repairable compared to powdercoated. Powder coat means it has to be perfect BEFORE it goes to powdercoat, NO grinding and welding new brackets on it after powdercoat, right??
 
correct my thinking as I am NOT a powdercoat expert!
 
Could also have the shop do  sandblast and then I coat with one of the rust products.
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As for the body...
looking to take it to get media blasted in all the hard to get to places inside and underneath.
Probably AFTER I do the hard rot repair so the repair metal gets clean too.
Then blast and coat with a product EVERYWHERE except the external body getting painted.
Underneath, firewall, floorboards, trunk, inner wheel wells and inside down where the wells meet the body over the tire area, the A-pillar/B-pillar, inside the doors and rear sail panel area, roof etc...
 
is this going to be(after media blast) vacuum and blow out all the media, dry it, seam sealer and spray it with a product direct on the metal???
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Media blasting... you'll find sand years after the body is done. :)
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Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Media blasting... you'll find sand years after the body is done. :)
But is it better to do the media blast so it gets into ALL the hard to reach areas in order to clean it up before painting with the rust paint product(whichever that may be)?
 
Already got a quote for $500 to blast the WHOLE body, less if I do not have them do all the flat surface stuff I can do with a DA or wire wheel.
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Well, being in Arizona I may not be the best person to say anything about this, but I'ved used Rustoleum "rust reformer" on pretty rusty metal after just giving it a general hand sanding and have had good results. I have a pickup that was in Colorado all it's life and it had some rot holes in the lower parts of the body (cab floor, lower cab corner), I busted out the rust, cleaned it with some distilled water and a wire brush, wiped it dry as a bone, and sprayed the rust reformer on. Followed that with primer. I haven't yet painted the truck but after six years there is no sign of cancer.
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I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd add an update as I just finished up some work with both POR-15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on my 73. After some innerweb searching, I decided to try Eastwood rust encapsulator due to its UV resistance.  I found it MUCH easier to deal with.

They are fairly different in my opinion. POR is a bit thicker, has a very adhesive quality (keeps sealing itself in my can), and is impossible to get off your skin.  You can clean up with mineral spirits if its fresh, but after that, nada.  Eastwood stuff is much thinner (flows better but runs easier too) and seems to get in cracks and crevices better.  It does seem to dry quicker too, which I find useful.  I like the Eastwood stuff better as it seems to go on easier, and is in general easier to deal with than POR 15.  I think the Eastwood stuff is about $20 cheaper too.
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