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Road / Track Suspension Discussion

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    Posted: 07-April-2011 at 3:34AM
I started this thread to continue a discussion that started under the Weight thread.   I'm mostly interested in turning corners as a primary requirement with the drag strip a second priority.  Intend on keeping the cleveland, switching it to a manual, and lighten the front end as much as possible without hurting it for street driving.
 
Ride Height: 
Retaining the stock height or lowering 1".   I might go lower if I can get the exhaust tucked up tighter, but that will be a lot of custom oval tubing and custom headers (not likely).   I'm not cutting the frame to feed the exhaust through like that Pure Vision car.
 
Front:
Bushings: Planning to use Energy Suspension poly bushings to tighten up the front
Box the control arms.  Was looking at the TCI front bushing if the poly moves to much.   Found on the trailing arm that mounts to the lower control arm.   TCI has this bushing for the mustang suspension kit.
Springs:  Been thinking around 850 lbs/in would be a good starting point.
Sway Bar:  Adapting a circle track/ Nascar solid bar.   These cars are really nose heavy.  I was thinking something between 1 1/2" to 2" front sway bar.
Shocks:  Open issue...probably do the same thing Ron did, have Bilsteins revalved. 
Tires:  275 sized tires...I dont want it to rub.  295 looks like it might rub a little under compression.  Still undecided
 
Rear:
Boxing the lower trailing arms
Poly bushings, except that it appears that the lower trailing arm where it mounts to the frame will need a spherical bushing due to the compond motion of the trailing arm.
Springs:  Stock is a variable rate 192lbs/in spring.   Thinking of sticking something close to  stock rate.   200-225 lbs/in or use the Station wagon springs.  Not sure yet.  
Sway Bar:  Using the Addco 7/8" bar will probably be sufficient.   My GTS has the handling package.  It has the 5/8" bar stock.
Shocks:  Probably the revalved Bilsteins or equivalent.
Tires:  295 sized tires.  
 
 
Any advice, feedbacks, words of wisdom are surely welcome.   As a point of reference I found this track car built by Jack Roush for the Bondurant Driving School.   The CV is a close cousin in size and weight.
Pics:
 
Instructor Car
1999 Police Interceptor Crown Victoria
ENGINE: 1999 SVT Mustang Cobra 4.6L 4V. 320 HP.
Full length Cobra windage tray with modified Mark VIII oil pan.
Emissions controls removed.
Custom Bondurant engine calibration.
Custom H – pipe with catalytic converters removed.
Borla custom dual exhaust system.
Custom cooling system including production 6.8L V10 water pump and radiator, engine driven fan with custom shroud and an 18” electric cooling fan.
1995 SVT Mustang Cobra R engine oil cooler.
Battery relocated to trunk.
WEIGHT: 4,800 Lbs.
TRANSMISSION/ 1999 SVT Mustang Cobra T-45 5 speed with carbon fiber blocking rings.
DRIVETRAIN: B & M Ripper Shifter.
Custom steel drive shaft with safety loop.
3.73:1 axle ratio with production limited slip.
FUEL SYSTEM: Custom 22 gallon racing fuel cell.
1999 SVT Mustang Cobra fuel pump.
Custom stainless steel and braided fuel lines
SUSPENSION: Front:
Eibach 1000 lb per inch springs.
Monroe Shocks with custom calibration.
Winston Cup style 2” diameter solid front sway bar with custom links.
Modified alignment settings:
Camber 1.8 degrees negative
Caster 7.0 degrees positive
Toe 0.0 degrees.
Rear:
Eibach 160 lb per inch springs.
Monroe shocks with custom calibration.
Production .708 diameter solid sway bar.
Production Watts linkages.
BRAKES: Production Crown Victoria disk brakes.
Performance Friction 90 compound race brake pads.
Baer Brakes custom steel braided brake lines.
Custom brake cooling ducts.
WHEELS/ 1995 SVT Mustang Cobra R 17 X 9” wheels.
TIRES : Goodyear Eagle HP Ultra 275/40/R17.
INTERIOR: 1999 SVT Mustang Cobra instrument cluster.
Four point safety harnesses at all four seating locations.
Six point fully integrated Roush safety cage.
10 lb dry chemical fire extinguisher.
Halon fire suppression system with four nozzles.

Regards,
John
 
-John
1973 GTS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 3:44AM
Aren't there two schools of general thought regarding suspension? Soft springs/shocks and BEEFY AS ANYTHING sway bars... and stiffer springs and shocks, with no rear bar. I feel like I read this somewhere, I wish I remember where. 

You'd probably want to look at 68-72 Chevelle handling packages available aftermarket, as they are almost identical, chassis wise, as a midsize. 


Edited by Psquare75 - 07-April-2011 at 3:45AM
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 4:07AM
Originally posted by BackInBlack BackInBlack wrote:

I'm mostly interested in turning corners as a primary requirement with the drag strip a second priority
 
the better you set up for turning corners, the more you'll hurt weight transfer & straight line traction and vice versa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 5:01AM
Drag suspensions vs road/street are completely different...which is why I started this thread.   Most torinos I see are setup for the drag strip.  I guess that I'm in a minority.   I want to make my car a sleeper yet handle like a new Mustang.   My approach to drags...if i'm not making the time I want then I need more horsepower, but I wont sacrifice the ability to take a fast turn.   What I hate teh most in a car is one that wallows around corners. Soft springs/bad shocks taking you for a ocean ship ride.
 
There are hardly ever any Torinos at the local car shows, especially the 72+ years.  The ones that do show up are all setup for the drag strip.   I think its pretty cool to see one of these old forgotten muscle cars in street battle trim.
 
Regarding Psquare...I agree except that I've reached the limit of common size sway bars.  Can you imagine a 3" front bar.   It gets a bit impractical.   I like to use as much sway bar as possible before cranking up the spring rate.   Granted these cars are at a disadvantage due to the weight and the long wheelbase, but I believe they can handle like a new car.   I'm trying to build a street bruiser not a full track car.  
 
What Ron Earp is doing with his is really close to what I want to do with mine,   Since we are in a minority its been hard to get any real data or real track experience.   
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 6:09AM
That 2" bar sounds like a good starting point. 
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Carl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 7:47AM
I use the sway bars from PST.  Don't really recall the size.  1-1/8 front 7/8 rear?  The car hangs the corners nice and flat on the road course, which is so far beyond any kind of driving you could do on the street it's just silly.  If anything the rear bar could stand to be smaller.
 
In my opinion, you're overthinking it.  These cars actually handle quite well with very few simple mods, but getting one to handle on-par with a new Mustang or Corvette is going to be a very long and costly exercise in futility.
 
On tires, you're not going to find any 15" street tire with a big enough diameter for these cars that's anything but a high mileage radial with rock hard rubber.  17" wheels will really open up the selection.  For the track, you're pretty much going to be limited to 275/60-15 Hoosier Bias ply or Goodyear Eagle racing tires (Blue Streak Special 26.5x8.0-15).  They do have a tread and some people do run them on the street, but they're not DOT approved.
 
Here's a video of my car on the road course with 255/50R17 Riken Raptors.  My biggest issues that day were lack of real racing tires, unable to grab 1st gear in the slow turns, and factory brakes.  Suspension was NOT the limiting factor.
 
 


Edited by Carl - 07-April-2011 at 7:55AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 8:22AM
I've decided to go the handling route with my '76. It will never be a scorcher at stop lights, so handling is going to be it's forte. Where I live there are so many curvy hilly roads, they just beckon you to drive them hard. I have received some great advice by reading what you guys have done and benefiting from your experiences, so I know where to start. Seeing as I've had this car since 1980, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, so I've planned to go even further with the goal of a sleeper. Lots of material removal, 17 inch wheels/performance rubber, lightened and modified bumpers, deletion of non-vital options and items not essential to the normal operation of the car. All with backyard ingenuity and fabrication - guess I'll see where it ends up, LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 9:58AM

I'm thinking of the improving the handling of my '76 Gran Torino as well. 

I think if we could adapt off-the-shelf AFCO or QA1 coilovers, we would be off to a great start.  I particularly like the idea of easy springrate changes and ride height adjustments along with a rebuildable/revalveable shock. 
 
Anyone ever look into this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 10:17AM
Originally posted by PS122 PS122 wrote:

I'm thinking of the improving the handling of my '76 Gran Torino as well. 

I think if we could adapt off-the-shelf AFCO or QA1 coilovers, we would be off to a great start.  I particularly like the idea of easy springrate changes and ride height adjustments along with a rebuildable/revalveable shock. 
 
Anyone ever look into this?
WELCOME to the board!
 
Please drop in on the Welcome forum, tell us about yourslef, your story and hopefully some pics of the car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 302ford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 11:54AM
The adjustable qa1 shocks helped quite a bit for ride quality in my car. I would like to put in the qa1 rear coilover setup this year if funds allow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 5:34PM
Coil overs are certainly nice...no doubt.  I thought about coil overs but decided to keep it sleeper stock looking.   Its real easy to swap springs in the rear.   Front is a different story.   I believe that Pure Vision Torino used QA coilovers.   Mounts easily in the front spring area, but the rear Steve Strope put a Morrison rear clip in which included rear coil overs.  That is the only Torino that I've seen with coil overs.   I'm sure others have done it...I just haven't seen it.
 
Here is some of the comments from the other Weight thread for reference.
Ron Earp:
I'm thinking higher rates will have to be used now, maybe 975 front at 350is rear. But, I need to scale the car with all the parts on (hood is missing now and bumper) to estimate.
 
Rear suspension - I have poly bushings in there now and I ran the suspension through the range of travel without the springs or shocks and I had no bind. Up and down it was 100% fine, no binding.

BUT, and big but, this was static on the lift and not with any side load. It might very well bind up while side loaded and compressed. So until it is driving I can't make the decision on how to handle the rear, hence the poly bushings for now.

I hope to get some real data soon, ie drive this thing, and figure out what to do. If sphericals are needed I know of no source but they aren't hard to make if you have a lathe. Select the proper spherical bearing and then machine sleeves to hold it captive in the arm.

BTW, I did get some Bilsteins re-valved for the weight and estimated springs so the car is wearing those now. You might want to look into that as well. Stiff springs but wet noodle KYB or other "muscle car" shock isn't going to work well as a secondary dampener.
 
 
Here is a link for a late model mustang trailing arm with a poly bushing in one end and the other end with a spherical bushing.  
This is what I believe is needed for the lower rear trailing arm for the Torinos.   If you look at how the trailing arm is mounting it angles from the outside frame toward the center of the car.  As it travels upward, the lower trailing arm will twist as the one side of the differential compresses and moves upward.  I believe a spherical bushing will be in required for the Torino lower control arm (front), poly in the other end, with a panard bar. This is more for track use; for street driving this is probably excessive. This all depends upon how much that trailing arm twists under compression with loading.
 
There are several rear 3 link and 4 link kits available for Mustangs that use the front leaf spring eye for a lower trailing arm front mounting point.   In those kits the lower trailing arm uses a spherical bushing in the front mount and a poly in the rear for the same reasons.  Crown Vic Police interceptors dont have this issue because the trailing arms are vertically stacked.  The move up/down only and the Watts link keeps the rear end centered.  
 
 
Ron,
I'm wondering if you jacked up one side and left the other side at normal height or extended.   My car is out getting some work done so I can't check it at the moment.   I will be taking measurements to see how much twist there is on the lower arms and deflection.   And...as you mentioned the side loading effects.  A panard bar is probably in order.
 
 
Carl said I'm over thinking it....guilty!  I'm pretty detail oriented.  Its is curse.  LOL.
 
 
BTW: here is a good book for reference.   "Chassis Engineering" by Herb Adams  
Helps explains topics like Ackerman angles, bumpsteer effects, suspension geometry, anti-dive, bushings, traction, loading, etc  


Edited by BackInBlack - 07-April-2011 at 5:40PM
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-April-2011 at 5:43PM
Originally posted by Psquare75 Psquare75 wrote:

Aren't there two schools of general thought regarding suspension? Soft springs/shocks and BEEFY AS ANYTHING sway bars... and stiffer springs and shocks, with no rear bar. I feel like I read this somewhere, I wish I remember where. 

You'd probably want to look at 68-72 Chevelle handling packages available aftermarket, as they are almost identical, chassis wise, as a midsize. 
I'll check the Chevelle sites....thats a good idea.  Thanks.
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2011 at 2:06AM
For me on the one I want to build it is getting Thunderbird SC 4 wheel independent suspension.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2011 at 2:26AM
Even my daily driver Cavalier has a solid rear axle LOL.. 4 link midsized cars don't hop NEARLY as much as an Fseries P/U though...
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2011 at 4:25AM
AMEN TO THAT BROTHER. Nothing like the rattle your teeth get when you are in 4 Bbl and the FMX decides to hit 1st again at 25 mph...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2011 at 6:41AM
Originally posted by 302ford 302ford wrote:

The adjustable qa1 shocks helped quite a bit for ride quality in my car. I would like to put in the qa1 rear coilover setup this year if funds allow.
 
Are you using the "Stocker Star" non-coilovers or have you adapted one of the race-based coilovers on you car?
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 302ford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-April-2011 at 12:07PM
I have the single adjustable "Shocker Star" shocks with stock springs right now. But would like to use a rear weld-in coilover setup this year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS122 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-April-2011 at 8:40AM
I'd really like a set of coil-overs like QA1 offers for Chevelles.  Since we don't have the numbers that the Chevelle guys have we may have to improvise.  Think something like this could be adapted to our cars?
 
 
Time for me to pull a wheel and start studying the front suspension...
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-April-2011 at 8:42AM
As long as the mounts are the same..... I'd be concerned about the lower shock mount ripping out the lower control arm mounting points, but that's a minor issue IMO.
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-April-2011 at 8:06PM
From the interview I saw on Hub, and the 1.5 hour phone interview on V8TV with Strope on the PV GTS:
The front col overs are a bolt in affair. They made a plate to bolt into the lower control arm, evidently with no modification to the stock suspension.
They clipped the back half on the PureVision car, but this I think was more for to make room for the huge rollers more than anything else.

For consideration of a panhard bar, you don't have to reinvent the wheel. Find a mid-late 70's full size Ford LTD. The frames on those cars, after 1975? have the panhard rod setup out back.
Local dirt track guys that are hardcore Ford guys, like my friend Steve out of Colorado has noted this to me.
As before, on street cars, on their 1972 GT Ranchero, and a 1974 Montego MX coupe, they have been running cup spacers, with Eibach 5" OD springs, with rates in the 700-800 pound inch range.
You could run a 1,000 pound hobby stock spring, but the damn car will ride like a dump truck, even if you are running a 429/460 car.

Concerning bars...I asked, and was told in his racing experience, too large of a rear bar can screw up the steering on a 72-79 intermediate chassis.

My thoughts on the bars, with all the used Nascar crap on racing junk and Ebay, why not run a splined bar up front, with the splined end links on the front?

Stuff can be made to work, if others have already done the back ground.
As I've been told before, some times, sure, it's great to be the pioneer blazing the train, but some times it's better to study stuff, and avoid face down on the trail of life mauled by a frickin' bear.

Most of you know, I have a street car, not a race car...but I'll push my car hard as hell at times.
I'm a basic believer in KISS. Stiff springs. Decent HD shocks. larger front bar, and a stock sized rear bar.

My weakness I have on my GTS, I made the mistake of using replacement bushings out back on my rear axle.
I fully plan on replacing my rear upper arms with my police arms, with poly bushings.
The lowers I boxed many years back, but may box another set, and install my poly bushings.

In case you are wondering what can happen with soft bushings out back, enjoy my 2010 Powertour Autocross event: 


When I was on the autocross {first time, I might add} as I powered out of the 180 degree corner, I was not going to a fast time, I was out to have fun. What I had happen though, as I laid into the throttle, I got rear wheel hop, and the ass of the car kept drifting, and suddenly snapped to the right as I was steering into the drift. 
I could of just spun the car, but I did not want to damage things as I was like 1200 miles from Omaha!

Other times, I have been able to just lay into the power and smoke my tires with the same set up.

I'm personally thinking it's the bushings as a key issue. But, as I content I have a "street" car, not been a major rush to tear it apart.

I still have issue though. With my gearing, on the street, at times I have shaken the car so hard, I thought I was going to break something in first gear.
{I had done this 3? years back...left at a light screwing around, shook the ass out from under the car, got it loose, and the engine actually shut off on me.}

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote interceptor460 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 1:03AM
I looked at the list that Blackinblack posted. The 2 inch sway bar isway too much. No mention on a tighter steering box, and what tire size his going to use . There was a mention of 17x 9 inch on a crwn vic. I have scales that placed under  each tire to weigh the car and give the difference of front and rear weigh. If you get these scales or get the car weighed it give a better idea what springs to use. The crown vic 850 lbs /rate spings are look pretty good on a torino. On my package I was thinking of using 545 lbs / rate springs up front. A saginaw box is in place and I prefer that over the ford box. On 14 inch tires on my torinos were quickly replaced with 15 inch tires . With what  tires are out there 16-17-18 inch tires  are even better choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 1:44AM
Andy, another thing for peopel to take into consideration is STICK vs AUTO.
Your stick has a higher tendency to wheel hop than an auto.
Sticks transfer the power SOLID and that causes the suspension to absorb the wheel hop(not good at it), the auto will absorb the wheel hop(in actuality it eliminates it by not forcing the suspension to deal with it)
This is a MAJOR problem in the T-Bird SC world too!
The Auto cars do not have a wheel hop problem but the stick will tear the car apart with wheel hop.
In order to fix it in the SC you replace the lower bushings with DELRIN solid bushings. They keep the suspension from flexing as it goes through the range of motion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 3:02AM
I was going to say I have 420 ft lbs at the wheels, and my car just spins smooth as silk if I try to launch against the converter. 
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 3:23AM
From Eliteman comment:  I agree with the rear bar comment.   I dont believe anything more than a stock or aftermarket 7/8" bar is needed.   The rear will track follow the front so long as you dont break loose.

cowboyupdjcarl:   Good comments...same past experiences here.   I believe the original 4 speed cars had staggered shocks in the rear to help with wheel hop from the factory.   I plan to use spherical busings in the front of the lower trailing arm and a panard bar.   Good to know about the later model panard bar from Andy.  

Interceptor460:   I'm not sure about 2" bar, but I know I want a bigger bar than stock.  I was thinking 1.5 to 2" range.   I'm not sure because the sway bar is essentially a spring and it has to work with the front spring rates.   I'm still trying to figure out the right combo.  I'm not sure of anything yet.  I like to plan it out before diving in.   Lots of good comments...


Earlier I posted the specs from a Jack Rousch Crown Vic car he built for the Bondurant Driving School.   Jack Rousch has made his share of blunders of the years, but one thing I'm sure of is that he (his organization) knows how to build track cars.   The CV is similar to our Torino.   Its a good data point as a reference regarding what needs to be done to make it handle.   The long wheelbase and nose heavy weight warrants more spring and sway bar in the front.   I think 1000 lbs is to much for a street car cruiser, but 750-850 will probably be about right.  I believe keeping the rear stock with upgraded bushings and panard bar is all thats needed.   A little understeer is a good thing...just a smidge.    


Here is a pic of a spherical bushing that is part of a Total Control Products (TCP) kit to replace the leaf springs in a Mustang with a 4 link suspension (G-link) 


Edited by BackInBlack - 13-April-2011 at 4:15AM
-John
1973 GTS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 3:48AM
Another thing to look at


94-96 Impala SS. They have quite a following. Found this post by accident. 
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote interceptor460 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-April-2011 at 4:32PM
On both ex cop cars I have 1-1/8 inch bar front and 15/16 anti sway bar on the rear. The front would be better with 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 in front. My 460pi 74 torino had model D4AW-5310AVA  front coils or TRW cs 8336 coils with 442 lbs /rate  coils. The car held good on turns ,but that 460 is a 720 pound engine it is too nose heavy.
  My second cop car has a 400 cid it would be more happy with that model coil. Also when I swaped the saginaw box from a 71 boss mustang it was a different car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2011 at 6:11PM
What's really odd was on my 4 speed, with the older smaller 16" tires, I had to smoke the tires in second gear. First gear was too violent.

That autocross vid, I took off in second gear because I was trying to screw around and smoke the tires, and didn't have the RPM's up enough and let the clutch out smoother.

Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2011 at 6:50PM
Once I finish up the interior, radio, etc. In my car I plan to put in good sway bars, pillar bed them, etc. and see how it works.    I'm going to get the 7/8" or 1" rear bar first, probably Addco.   

Drive it a bit...

Next, I will install an appropriate sized splined solid sway bar of 1 1/2" min with spherical links in the front.  Something like the Schroder bar.   I would prefer to get a stock looking sway bar that is approx. 1 1/2"+, but can't find one.

From there...with the feedback regarding the CVPI springs, decide where to go with the springs/shocks.




Edited by BackInBlack - 20-April-2011 at 6:53PM
-John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackInBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2011 at 4:06PM
This is what I believe is needed for the rear trailing arms...

Its available for GM A body...not sure about the 72+ Torino
-John
-John
1973 GTS
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