Brake proportioning valve problems?

Consider this a "public service announcement."

 

So my son and I have been screwing around trying to get the brakes on my 1976 Elite to work properly.  We've taken the valve completely apart and everything "looks" OK with the exception of the piston itself.  The piston "looks" like there might be a missing o-ring but we can't be sure - it could have been missing for the last 35 years.    As one guy told me, if the o-ring had disintegrated, why didn't hte other one's do the same?  Makes sense to me.

 

The bottom line problem is that you can bleed the system and get full pedal for the front brakes but ZERO at the rear so the valve is blocking the process for some dumb reason.

 

Anyway, after searching high and low I found an outfit in Virginia that will rebuild my original.  White Post Resorations @ WhitePost.com.  (540) 837-1140.

 

It's not cheap but at least you keep your original valve body.

 

Hi guys,

 

Just an update on White Post Restorations in Virginia.  I got a call at 6:30 this morning (CA).  Teresa said they just got the valve and it will be rebuilt and shipped back to me TODAY!  Talk about a quick turn around.

 

Oh, it turns out they have a warehouse with quite a few misc. parts so if you don't have a "core," they might still be able to help you out.  Teresa said it's not uncommon for people to ship them brake-related stuff so that others can make use of them.  If you have old stuff you don't need (no brake drums) you might want to give them a call to see if they can use it.

 

The kit looks "similar" but I can tell by the parts shown, it's not the same.  The price is good though.

 

A little clarification is in order here.  When it comes to master cylinders, I think you're correct about brass sleeves, etc.  When it comes to proportioning valves it's a different story.  The "rebuild" process is more of a disassemble, clean and put in replacement o-rings, seals and washers.  Kind of expensive for that kind of work because it's not really that labor intensive.  The issue seems to be that it's almost impossible to get parts that fit AND are resistent to detiorioration from brake fluid so they're "special." 

 

As an aside, I called late yesterday (about 15 minutes before closing) to confirm my valve would be shipped out that day.  The guy that answered said he was the only one there but he would go upstairs to check.  He said it was ready to go.  Given the time I asked if UPS would be there in time and he said it's not a problem.  They leave the shop open and when UPS picks up the shipment, he turns out the lights and locks the doors.  Try that in CA and everything you own would be gone by morning! 

 

He said we were losing pressure so there had to be a leak somewhere.  As he pulled back into the garage, he left a trail of brake fluid like you wouldn't believe - thank God the parking brake still worked.

 

Anyway, it turns out the the "proportioning" valve itself (the portion that controls the rear brakes) decided to give out for some reason or another.

 

I called White Post and told them what happened.  After MAJOR apologies, they said to send it back right away and they would take care of the problem.  Their guess was that a seal in that portion of the valve must have failed and that they would fix, test and return the unit ASAP.

 

These things happen in life so it's hard to get upset given their response.

 

Oh, one other thing.  When it comes to holding the bleeder rod open during bleeding, that's not a real easy thing to accomplish because it's so small and in such a tight place (the 460 takes up a lot of room).  So, for what it's worth, my stroke of "genius" was to tie a piece of dental floss to the end of the rod, pull it straight out and THEN clamp it with vice grips - BINGO!

 

LOL - there are times when I think that car hates me!

 

Thanks, I was aware of that tool (thanks to psquare posting a picture and part#) but couldn't locate one anywhere and I didn't have the means/material to build one so the dental floss had to do.