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Rear quarter panel

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ilyes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rear quarter panel
    Posted: 02-January-2012 at 2:57AM
Does anybody has some kind of feedback on those repro. they are quite cheap, but that's all I need, I don't need an entire panel, just the area around the wheel well

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Psquare75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 3:49AM
I can't speak specifically about the Torino pieces, but the 73-75 Cutlass pieces from them are decent. 
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73GTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 7:47AM
"Economy grade" in the description says it all.
Jim


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kversch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 2:57PM
if they are like the ones i got with a parts deal,  and they do look like it form the pic.   i  dont think i would get them.   they are not shaped as well to the torino body lines,  well they would fit  you have to put alot of other work in to them to match the curves of the body.

when i am ready to do quarters on my car,  i will be putting tabco panels on.   i think they are the best fit patch panel out there for the rear quarters next to NOS and good luck finding it for a fastback.
-kevin-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Torino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 6:59PM
I believe they are the same exact brand that I ordered from JCwhitney, they were not good quality at all in my opinion. I ordered both sides and the critical dimensions (distance between body lines ect) as well as the wheel lip were different from one to another. They came NOWHERE close to the correct factory size and shape. You would most likely be better off starting from scratch. 

I ended up going with Tabco and they allowed me to only order the lower section (like yours appears to need) for $200 a piece (had to call and bargain with them on this for a bit and then send them pictures of what I needed they were originally $400 a piece I believe). They shipped straight to my door as well. That is still a lot, but they are EXCELLENT quality and fit the contours perfectly. Just my two cents on the ordeal.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Torino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 7:05PM
Here are some pictures of the drivers side with the Tabco panel. 




1973 base model Torino
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Torino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 7:08PM
The reason they let me order the lower section was because sometimes the upper part tears while being made so you really just have to call them and see what they have and ask not demand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-January-2012 at 8:54PM
does the repair work need to be back to original? seems they would have massaged the wheel openings some for tire clearance
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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ilyes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2012 at 1:12AM
No, it doesn't matter. I just need the contour of the wheel well, the rest of the quarter are great. I don't want to roll out the fender tho.

If just the contour of the wheel is ok, that's enough, if not, i'll try to get some from a part car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-January-2012 at 2:23AM
What is your time worth? Rather then spending $300 + for a panel, do what I did when I was in college. Hacky, but no Elite repop panels existed, and this was pre internet.



If you cover it with wheel opening trim, no one will know. It lasted the time I owned the car (3 years+)
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 5:50AM
Ilyes, just because it's only showing on the lip, doesn't mean it's going up higher.
A primary example, I thought this panel was going to be usable.

I ended up sectioning the panel to use for repair on the GTS.


If you look, on the back side...

Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 6:05AM
That panel is better than the Elite panels you gave me. Dead
Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
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79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 7:40AM
He's right Ilyes. One of the most important things is to thoroughly assess the exact extent of the rust/damage before cutting and/or purchasing sheetmetal.

Example: Years ago, I had a '68 Ram Air Firebird Convertible that had some "minor rust" around the lower 1/4's and wheelwell - a very common spot on the first gen F bodies - so I proceeded to start replacing the lower 1/4 section with one from a donor car I had. The rest of the panel looked great both outside and inside where I could see. Got everything cut out, marked and welded in. Looked great. About a month later, I had a leaky cylinder on the power top, and the top needed attention, so I removed everything. Guess what? Underneath all that top-related hardware, in an absurdly stupid spot that no one would look, was a bad area covered in trunk splatter paint. Up by the top bodyline crease. On the panel I had just repaired a month ago. I ended up cutting the entire 1/4 off for a complete replacement including all the hard work on the lower. Back then, a used coupe panel was all there was, and I had cut my only one for the previous repair. 1 additional used 1/4 to buy. That was the last time I ever made that mistake, and I kept that sheetmetal as a reminder to look in EVERY nook and cranny from then on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 8:01AM
glad to see that Tabco is willing to sell you just a section of the quarter skins they make 
as some cars only need the bottom section and maybe a little around the wheel lip like 73 Torino's car.I know $200 is still alot but that is $150 less if your not needing the whole panel and add that twice if both sides are needed and that is a $300 savings.

thanks for letting us know that we can call and ask for just a lower section

on My 72 GTS I will need the whole panel as I have body damage as well as rust on the bottom and around wheel lip on the right side so the complete half quarter skin will fix all the areas so I ill purchase the complete panel but nice to know you can buy a section.
saves them the loss of sales for the complete panel if it tears at the top like stated,they can still sell a piece of it if the bottom is still good and undamaged


As Tabco seems to have the better quality and fit then the cheap ones on ebay if you only need the bottom or the wheel lip it is worth asking tabco what they got available opposed to buying the cheap ones off ebay even if you have to spend a few bucks more cause the cheapo's are probabley made in China with crappy China steel which is the recyled metal they probably get from the states which is contaminated with mixed metals that are melted down

 the cheap skins are also made with thinner guage sheetmetal then that probably of the Tabco's
The factory sheet metal back in the 70's was around 18 guage which is alot thicker then the 22 guage of some of today's cars.


Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 06-February-2012 at 8:11AM
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ilyes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 1:30PM
The more I see those pics, the more I want to open up the wheel well to fit big wheels/tires.
I'm on the verge of getting rid of the inner front fenders as well. I was watching couple of crash rally cars and I guess I will cut as much metal as I can, as I'm putting in a big roll cage, I need to compensate for the added weight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unlovedford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2012 at 1:38PM
Be careful on getting rid of the inner fenders on a driver. Those keep all the bad things from bouncing off the pretty things - underside of the hood, engine, radiator, inside of the 1/4's, etc. Not to mention all the road grime. A couple of rocks or chunks of road debris will ruin your day.
Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 2:01AM
number 1, Gran Torino's have such large wheel wells wh would you have to get rid of them?
Andy already proved the NASCAR wheels and wide tires will fit on all 4 corners of a Gran Torino
and there are guys's who are Running 315's on the back with the correct offset wheel
Those NASCAR's didn't have them in Front but thy were strictly race but had wheel tubs in the rear as that is part of blocking the back trunk area off from the fuel cell for fire.
Persnally I would keep them they don't add that much weight
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 2:28AM
I think something needs to be determined by Ilyes. Is this car going to be
A. A "TRACK ONLY" car.. As in, no plates, only driven at events.

Or

B. A "Faux-NASCAR" car (I used French, see it over there? <------) That is, a street car, but sorta looks the part. 

If B, you need to err on the side of "Street" in every case... In my opinion. I.E. It's gonna be a daily driveable Torino with a sheet metal interior, 15x10s all around, retro 70's Winston Cup era paint, and a sheet metal wing. But don't go nuts gutting the thing... Again.. In my opinion.


Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72BlackGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 3:13AM
If he decides to go the "faux-NASCAR" and guts the inside of the safety parts such as the padded dash the car may not pass the safety inspection at the state level to be operated on the roadways. 

But......that appears to be a mute point because he has no paper to make the car legal so he may as well go full tilt and make it a "race only" vehicle and tear into it.

Plenty of flat sheet metal and round tubing available in the city and with cutoff wheels, a BFH and welder you can build anything you want.

I'm watching with anticipation to see the end result..... 
Ron
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ilyes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ilyes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 12:28PM
I was only talking about the front wheel well, I need to put them on a scale first to see how heavy they are.
My plan is to go Faux Nascar, and it will be driven on road, not sure about the road in the US, as how life is looking so far, I might go back to France by next year. If I go, it will definitely be street driven there.

I'll post lots of pics for you guys when work starts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoiler II Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 2:01PM
Sorry to jump in here fellas, but now I have a "oh yikes" question!
 
I have these "economy grade" panels. Both sides too... The guy threw them in when I bought my car. So now am I screwed and should I get these Tabco panels? I don't wanna half ass this part of my build but sheetmetal came with the car and rust is from mid-bodyline down only, and on both sides. ...see the pic?
 
What to do?
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend onirot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-February-2012 at 2:09PM
i havent seen the "economy" panels. i used the tabco.  there is still alot of metal work you have to do with them but they are high quality, to say the least.  very thick. 
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malcolm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2012 at 7:25PM
On quality build I recommend the Tabco even if it's just for the thicker gauge  metal plus they stamp the indent area for the marker light where as some of the cheapo's don't have nothing and is solid metal where the marker light should be.They are certainly the better quality but it is up to you if you want the added expense as they are $350 a piece 
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