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Topic Closedframe detailing, cleaning and pan what to do?

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kversch View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: frame detailing, cleaning and pan what to do?
    Posted: 28-October-2011 at 12:31PM
now that i have decided to do a frame off / frame swap with my 73,   the next question i have for you guys is   what is the best stuff out there to protect the frame once i have cleaned it all up and am ready to make it all nice and shiny again    paint, powder coat ect?

what kinda paint should i go with.   i know por 15 is good stuff but i am not a big fan of all the prep steps that it seems like you have to get just right or it wont work right and then you have to still top coat the por 15 to protect from uv light.   Dan the ranchero man was telling me about a product he used that was similar to por 15 but i cant remember what it was so hopefully he will chime in on this.   what have you guys used to redo your frame?

also  undercoating?  any thoughts on this.    My truck daily driver had good undercoating done to it at one point in time and i am very impressed at how well it has held up to the northern winters.  most trucks of its age should have 1/8inch or thicker rust scale coming off the frame mine has very little scale at all. When the car is done it will be a driver / show car.    im building it to enjoy, the threat of  rain wont stop me from talking out for a drive.
-kevin-
Brown 72 gran torino 351c 2v
Black 73 GTS FB 302
Red 73 GTS FB 351C C6 trans
73 GTS FB Parted
73 torino 4dr, 302, FMX parted
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http://kverschtorino.blogspot.com/
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lynchster View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 12:56PM
I sandblasted everything the primered and painted it using automotive paint. The one concession I made was shooting the underside of the floor pans with single stage paint instead of basecoat / clearcoat. 
I would have loved to have been able to dip the frame to treat the insides but I don't plan on driving in the rain either.
 
Chuck
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ilyes View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 1:33PM
if you can, i would sandblast it, it will save lots of time and headaches


POR15 is really expensive, i would use something else
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 1:37PM
How often will your frame be in direct UV light once it's under the body?
1972 Ford GTS Formal, H-code, automatic (SOLD)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 2:21PM
Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim CheeseSteakJim wrote:

How often will your frame be in direct UV light once it's under the body?
 
thats the logic i used.  i sandblasted mine,  then painted it with por15.  i then overcoated it with some clearcoat.  the "clearcoat" had some uv protection in it.  it wasnt very bad to do either. 
---------------------
malcolm
1973 gran torino sport (formal)... "Stacy Lynn"
1972 gran torino (formal)... "Mackenzie"
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kenneth View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 2:57PM
I cleaned my old Torino (and long gone) 74 frame by hand, then had it acid dipped. The "cleaning it by hand" consisted of getting all the Mig/Tig welds nicely smoothed, adding my own welds to have less gaps, prior to the dipping, Then I POR15 her EVERYWHERE, then used a chassis wax to flow that inside the channels, I did my best without drilling any extra holes to flow the POR15 & wax inside.
Looking back on it and with unlimited funds available I would do the same but not use POR15 due to it being DANG hard to flow into tight confines, or at least pay someone who would spray it in/on. There is a flex air applicator but I don't think POR15 flows well throughout it.    
The powder coating I have had no experience with but getting it within the frame would be easier than anything else.  
1973 Q code sports roof
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-October-2011 at 3:08PM
SEM makes a black primer that my body guy swears by. just ordered another quart of it today,to finish spraying my inner fenders an spot painting rad support and front portion of the frame.the finish is more of a satin black.very close to original finish of the frame.very durable can be use by itself with no topcoat.I don't have the # of it right now,but will get and post it with pix of parts painted with it.
John 75Gran Torino 4spd
Tighten it down until it snaps and then back it off a half turn!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2011 at 2:41AM
Mine is going in for sandblasting Monday and then just down the street from there to be powder-coated.
I can't paint it for what I was quoted for powder-coating there. They come highly recommended around here.
I'll takes pictures of everything as I have all along. One of these days I'll start a built topic on the MGT Resto.
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada

'72 Montego GT Q Code

Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2011 at 3:50AM
Originally posted by iangj iangj wrote:

One of these days I'll start a built topic on the MGT Resto.
Ian, i really wish you would!  I'd like to see some pictures!
Mike
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2011 at 7:38AM
podercoat is the best way as it's basically bullet proof and won't chip.
powdercoat guy next to my old resto shop had a pipe with powdercoat as a sample and he beat on it with a hammer and everything else and it would dent but not chip off.

It can be expensive depending where you live.

Eastwood Company who sells stuff fro retoration purpose sells rust Encapsilating Primer and Chassis black and seems to be a reasonable way to go.A friend of mine used it on his 72 Buick GS frame and it came out nice.he just wire wheeled the frame with a drill or air die grinder and then after he cleaned the frame up sparayed it with the encapsolator primer and then follwed that with the chassis black paint

rust encapsolator primer
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html

regular chassis black -satin finish
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-chassis-black-satin-quarts.html

2K Ceramic chassis black- satin finish
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-ceramic-chassis-black-satin-quart.html

they also have both chasis paints in gloss finish if you prefer a custom look but the satin is more OEM look
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2011 at 2:09PM
Originally posted by kversch kversch wrote:

now that i have decided to do a frame off / frame swap with my 73,   the next question i have for you guys is   what is the best stuff out there to protect the frame once i have cleaned it all up and am ready to make it all nice and shiny again    paint, powder coat ect?

what kinda paint should i go with.   i know por 15 is good stuff but i am not a big fan of all the prep steps that it seems like you have to get just right or it wont work right and then you have to still top coat the por 15 to protect from uv light.   Dan the ranchero man was telling me about a product he used that was similar to por 15 but i cant remember what it was so hopefully he will chime in on this.   what have you guys used to redo your frame?

also  undercoating?  any thoughts on this.    My truck daily driver had good undercoating done to it at one point in time and i am very impressed at how well it has held up to the northern winters.  most trucks of its age should have 1/8inch or thicker rust scale coming off the frame mine has very little scale at all. When the car is done it will be a driver / show car.    im building it to enjoy, the threat of  rain wont stop me from talking out for a drive.
The stuff is called zero rust  http://www.zerorust.com/ it is great stuff and dries to a satin finish. It is a few buck but if your going through the trouble of a frame off DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!
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iangj View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-October-2011 at 9:37PM
Patience Grasshopper!Wink
Ian Glyn-Jones
Fonthill, Ontario, Canada

'72 Montego GT Q Code

Montego GT Registry
Forum; http://mmgt.forumchitchat.com/
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2011 at 1:55AM
I too have changed from POR to Zero Rust. Usually for brackets and the back side of rust repair patches. 


Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
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Dan the ranchero man View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2011 at 7:51AM
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2011 at 10:11AM
I didn't do a frame off, but for my frame i used a wire brush to get all the loose stuff off, then painted it with "Mar-Hyde one step rust converter". My body guy recommended it and it seemed to do the trick. I'm planning on painting the floors and trunk with Zero Rust.
Lou and Brad

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1970 Chevy C30
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2011 at 4:15PM
I don't know Kevin. I used POR15 on my frame, and occasionally still to show people I will smack my frame with a ball peen hammer and it does not chip off as my frame was sand blasted with regular old sand I strained in a filter, and then I sort of just used a fork lift to position it.

This is a shot from 4 years ago:

Stretching back a number of years, here was my frame after pulling the body:

Stripped bare:

Freshly blasted:

I hung it off the forklift, and hosed it with the marine clean.
Followed with a good long soaking in the metal ready.

Followed this up with a couple throw away brushes, and a small foam roller.

I brushed and rolled the frame out, and trust me, POR15 will flow into any crevice or opening.
two thin coats.
Held up great, and I have $100-$150 in POR15 at that time.

Powder coating, if chipped, like any other coating, will fail and lead to rust. POR15 is no different.

If I had it to do over again, I would have ground the frame, and welded and smoothed, and probably epoxied the hell out of it, but my car is a driver, and I am content with the POR15, 8-10 years later.


Andrew
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-October-2011 at 2:08AM
Originally posted by moose0211 moose0211 wrote:

I didn't do a frame off, but for my frame i used a wire brush to get all the loose stuff off, then painted it with "Mar-Hyde one step rust converter". My body guy recommended it and it seemed to do the trick. I'm planning on painting the floors and trunk with Zero Rust.



Unless you're making a trophy show car, or restoring something that has some monetary value, it better be a labor of love. 

I did a step less han Moose did. Wire brush what I could, liberally blasted undercoating all over everything.


Did this first, before changing anything mechanical. 


After I painted the car... I ended up with this. 


White frame rails.. forgot to tape them off. Solution?


More undercoat. The car doesn't see salt, but is sitting outside under a cover. I built it to drive, not sit at a Mercury Club of America show (Is there even such a thing? lol). 


Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-October-2011 at 2:26PM
Kevin,
I went the frame off route.  Had the frame sand blasted (literally) after everything was pulled off of it, then used DuPont 25xxS Epoxy DTM Primer-Sealer, followed by chassis black.  It's held up relatively well, but the chassis black has a tendency to chip/peel off.  The epoxy primer was white and has held up very well.  If I had to do it again, I would use POR-15 (like I did on my 70 mustang) instead of chassis black; it's held up through seven years before I sold it last year.  Paul~
1972 GTS 351CJ-4V black/black
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-November-2011 at 6:57AM
well depending on your budget you have many choices from what everyone has listed.I know the eastwood primer and paint is very affordable the POR15 and powdercoat are probably the better of the choices as I can't say nothing for or against ZeroRust as I have never used it
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