Ford alternator fit any ford motor??

Ok I found out that they make internally regulated 1 wire alternators for ford, but they don't have an application list? So is it like the same setup for all ford motors?

Thanks, check this one out, do you think it would fit?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tuff-Stuff-Silver-Bullet-One-Wire-Alternator-100-AMP,9285.html

It looks like the bolts go the right way...BUT, people who spell tough "tuff"... I would probably look for one with a stock pulley and fan.
I used to have a GM alternator in my old marquis. swapped the serpentine pulley for a V-belt one and unplugged the merc's voltage regulator. worked fine. wasn't complicated to install


Edited by Big Bird - 19-February-2014 at 11:51AM

I've used the 1 wire GM alternators for several years. No issues with them, but will start using the 3G unit shown here. Better looking unit and way more advanced.

Also, no more dim and blinking lights like these old cars have.

Great info. Explains why my F150 was having charging issues and had found a Light Green/red stripe wire near the firewall 4x4 solenoids was corroded at its connection, Once fixed it charged fine again.

I look for a '93-'99 Ford Taurus with 3.0 OHV V6 (NOT DOHV), that application is the one I use. This 3G will have a large case, is 130 amp, is clocked correctly for ease of wiring(alternator wiring plugs point towards the top of the passenger fender when installed on my 466), and the pivot to adjustment bolt spacing will be 7".

The 3G applications used in 3.8 OHV Taurus's of the same era also use a large case, 130 amp alternator, BUT the bolt spacing between the pivot and adjustment bolts is 8.25", may help installation in some applications, just never used one.

This pic shows the differences in the 3G's large cases.


This pic shows the different clocking positions of a stock 3G alternator. The Taurus 3.0 OHV application uses the 8:00 position. The clocking position can be easily changed though.


There are differences in the voltage regulators, they are designated by the voltage regulator's case cover. The white VR's have LRC (load response control) which gives a slight delay from when the engine is started/running to when the alternator is actually charging(usually 1-3 seconds) and are considered a "standard" duty VR. The black or dark gray VRs provide charge voltage as soon as the engine is running and there is also a black/gray Heavy Duty version for severe applications, usually has an HD after the part number. All the VR's charge to 14.4-14.6 volts.

Standard duty VR w/LRC


VR without LRC


HD VR without LRC


Sorry for the long post and not just a Yes or No answer, figured the added info may help. Todd

Thanks a lot guys! I know where a Taurus is that I'm going to go check out.

I had this problem years ago with a 1G alternator with fender mounted voltage regulator, found the alternator diodes were leaking to ground internally, basically causing a dead short. I would say that if you change out the 1G alternator for the 3G, get rid of the voltage regulator and all of it's wiring (except the light green/red stripe wire), the problem would go away if the alternator was indeed the culprit. Hard to say without a bit of diagnosing though.
Try this: With the key off and no known electrical load "ON", try unhooking the positive cable from the battery and using a test light attach the clip end to the cable end then the probe end to the positive battery terminal. If the test light continuously glows brightly then you have a pretty good short to ground somewhere. To trace it down try removing the positive or "bat" wire/cable from the alternator to see if has the same leaking diode condition. If that doesn't work go, start removing the fusible links off the battery side of the starter solenoid or the accessory terminal bolt that is used when an ammeter is used, also can try removing each fuse in the fuseblock under the dash. When the light goes out or is really dim(radio memory) you have found the offending circuit. Good luck, Todd

Here, this diagram shows the wiring schematic of a 1G alternator/voltage regulator, whether with ammeter or warning light. It shows where the Light green/red stripe wire goes with each system.



Once the 1G alt. and the voltage regulator are removed, along with most of the VR's wiring, the LG/RS wire will be wired to the 3G as shown in the above 3G installation schematic a few posts back. Hope this helps. Todd

Yeah, lol, my original question was if that alternator would fit. I was just double checking. Lol

But could one of you guys maybe look on eBay or something and find the alternator that I need? Much appreciated