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Broken Valve Cover bolt

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72FordGTS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Broken Valve Cover bolt
    Posted: 30-May-2014 at 9:44AM
In the process of removing my valve covers, I snapped the heads off a couple of bolts. There is very little sticking out about the machined head surface.

What's the best way to remove these without causing more damage? The bolts didn't want to thread out easy (they haven't been off in a LONG time). Any tricks to removing the other side so I don't break more bolts off?
Vince

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-May-2014 at 11:25AM
Ez-out and heat for for the broken ones, and when you take out the others, DON'T be too gentle. If you put a wrench on it and gradually pull more and more, it may break. Put a socket on it and give it a quick smack to "shock" it loose, but remember you are working on a quarter-inch bolt (don't go bananas) . It seems like the wrong answer, but it works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-May-2014 at 2:11PM
Thanks for the info, I was thinking EZ-out might be my only solution.  I don't have any, so I will have to look at buying a set...
 
The weird part was that the bolt wasn't seized.  It turned several turns, but was just very hard to turn, like the threads were gummed up.  It was coming out, and then all of a sudden the head snapped off.  All the valve cover bolts were like this, except the majority didn't break.  I think I am going to have to chase the threads with a tap before I reinstall them.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-May-2014 at 3:35PM
my original motor mount bolts did that! head snapped off but the threads were loose, luckilly i was able to just use a small screw driver and tap it at the edge of the thread slowly turning it out until i could get a hold of it with vise grips. one additional piece of advise: before you drill for the ez-out, center punch the bolt, the drill bit will usually "walk"
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-June-2014 at 6:15PM
I've used my welder to add material to the top of broken screws & bolts, I even did a float bowl screw of a Predator carb. double whammy combo gives you something to grip with a vise-grip or you can weld on a nut... and the heat gets into the threads. sometimes (usually) it'll take more than one try, I think the carb job took about 6 tries but she spun right out w/o any damage to the main body casting

I think it's a porosity problem due to grease/oil?

after you get them suckers out, chase the threads & anti-seize brotha!

Edited by Rockatansky - 05-June-2014 at 6:19PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2014 at 3:22AM
Thanks for the info on the welding, that'd probably be the best way, if I had a welder and if I could weld! I tried the easy-out and I had no luck (I have never had any luck with them). I ended up drilling the old bolt out and re-tapping the hole. A chased the threads on all the other holes and it made big difference; there was lots of grease/crud in the threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2014 at 4:46PM
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74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
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