Transmission Seal Installation Question. |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Posted: 06-June-2014 at 11:56AM |
I am going to help a friend of mine replace a shifter shaft seal on his ford C6 transmission. The engine in his car is a ford 460 that is installed in a 1978 ford ranchero. The engine has a set of Hooker Headers (Part Number 6126) installed on it. Edited by dave302 - 06-June-2014 at 12:17PM |
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ramair351
Senior Member Joined: 08-May-2006 Location: west michigan Status: Offline Points: 1561 |
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Pretty sure you have to take that whole shaft out to change the seal, which requires removal of the trans pan. Once that's out of the way the seal changes easily,
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-Pete
1972 montego GT 1970 Torino cobra SCJ 1970 mustang mach 1 1965 Falcon futura |
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Regul8r
Admin Group Moderator Joined: 26-December-2007 Location: Sarasota FL Status: Offline Points: 6624 |
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Pete, I believe you are correct.
The seal is in the transmission and then the shaft goes in. |
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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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it looks to be the same type set up as a c-4 fmx or aod the shaft goes in through the seal and has a nut on the inside end of the shaft accessible from the inside with the pan off. as far as room to swing a hammer to drive the seal in, i'm thinking with the shaft out-- a long 5/16" or 3/8" bolt and nut with washers to" draw " the seal into place
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank You for the answers, i appreciate it. I could not find any pictures of a 1972 through 1976 ford intermediate (Torino or ranchero) car with a 429/460 engine with a C6 transmission and hooker 6126 headers installed. But i have included a couple of pictures below of a 1978 Lincoln mark 5 with a 460 engine and hooker 6126 headers installed (which is the same exact engine/transmission/ exhaust header combination). As you can see it is a tight fit between the headers and transmission seal location.
I know that ramair351 had said that it is possible to change the transmission seal while the engine, transmission and headers are in the car (Thank You), it still looks like a tight fit. The car is 100 miles from here, so i just want to find out what special tools might be needed before we go there to change the seal. Edited by dave302 - 06-June-2014 at 2:13PM |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank You, John. That is a good idea.
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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IF... you have room to slide the shaft out, then the bolt thing should work for you. you may have to unbolt that header to move it enough for room to work
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank You.
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GranTorinoSport
Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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I'll put my two cents in here.
I was going to do this very task myself several months back. I procured the parts (ebay, RockAuto & aquartlow) and then dropped the transmission pan. I am not a great mechanic. I don't claim to have magical superpowers that will allow me to get things into tight places, etc. The nut that holds the shift shaft into the transmission is right next to the valve body and is tough to get to. I did not say impossible - I suspect some of our more seasoned mechanics here could do it, but not do-able for me. On a brand new transmission I was not inclined to drop the valve body and start tearing other things out. Further, as Dave302 mentions, getting the seal out and in would be challenging. Again, not impossible, as californiajohnny has already made a valid suggestion to, but very challenging. Again, speaking from my own personal level of skill I would not attempt it. Just for a bit of background of why I was at this juncture, my transmission came with a generic shift shaft out of it, hence I desired to put the mid-size specific shaft with column-cable shift arm on. What I ended up doing was getting the B&M arm for the generic shaft, along with a Lokar kick down kit. Those two items fit on the generic output shaft without me needing to replace the shaft. Just that activity was a pain with the 6126's installed. Not impossible, and obviously within my skill level since it is done, but not easy either. If you need to replace the seal because it is leaking, then I would certainly try installing it with everything in place. However, I would also be prepared for the possible need to pull the engine up to get the header out, or some other large scale action that will buy you the space you need. Heck, you could even take the transmission out as another alternative. Hope that helps. Bottom line: 6126's make this a miserable job. But stock exhaust might even get in the way on this one. |
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aquartlow
Senior Member Joined: 19-December-2011 Location: Summerfield, Fl Status: Offline Points: 2271 |
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Good info here! Also make absolutely sure that the main linkage seal IS leaking before any removal of valvebody or trans from vehicle and not just the small O-ring for sealing the trans kickdown lever, it will save a few headaches. I had a leak/weeping issue in the area you are describing, found it was coming from the KD lever. I removed the nut holding the lever in place, installed an appropriate sized O-ring, then installed a stainless flat washer and nylon lock nut to fimly attach the KD lever but not too tight to restrict and/or delay the lever's motion/actuation. Hope this helps, Todd
BTW, in the pics posted here by Dave302: BE THANKFUL, because there is ALOT more room between the DS header collector and trans pan in this pictured application than I have on my '79 Ranchero-460/C6 application(I actually had to remove the "bump out" in my C6's pan so the header collector gasket flange wouldn't hit it).
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www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires. No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t. Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone. |
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GranTorinoSport
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Off topic note, the vehicle pictured has the heavy duty support cross arms.
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Rockatansky
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did you know there's more to sealing that linkage than just the seal in the trans case?
there's also an O-ring or 2 on the inner kickdown shaft inside the outer selector shaft could be your leak is only the O-rings, or both the seal & the O-rings stock exhaust wouldn't be a problem, he'd bitch you up one side & down the other for having headers 100 miles from the tool box... I wouldn't wanna make too many trips
Edited by Rockatansky - 18-August-2014 at 5:39PM |
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72 GT Ute
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank You for all of the answers, we appreciate it.
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank you for the answers. My friend had already had a new o-ring installed inside the kickdown lever shaft and it is still leaking... The only possible problem with the o-ring (that was installed) is that: My friend had brought two o-rings with him to the repair shop. One o-ring was the exact o-ring with the correct part number. This o-ring is called a square sided o-ring, it looks exactly like the pictures below.
But unfortunately, the repair man at the repair shop insisted that he would only install the completely round sided o-ring. The round sided o-ring that was installed, is the exact same size height, width, thickness and length in all dimensions as the square sided o-ring with the correct part number for the kickdown lever shaft. The kickdown lever o-ring does not seem to be leaking any more, (I am almost 100% positive that the leak is coming from the shifter shaft seal), but do you think that the square sided o-ring should have been installed, instead of the round sided o-ring? What are other people using on their kickdown levers? Below is a picture of a round sided o-ring. Thank you for any answers that you can give to us. Edited by dave302 - 19-August-2014 at 12:17PM |
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aquartlow
Senior Member Joined: 19-December-2011 Location: Summerfield, Fl Status: Offline Points: 2271 |
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I would have to say, "If it ain't leaking, leave it alone". I used a regular O-ring to solve my leak, it has been about 18 months, no leak since installing it. I hope and/or believe your results will be similar. Good luck, Todd
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www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires. No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t. Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone. |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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Thank You for the answers.
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aquartlow
Senior Member Joined: 19-December-2011 Location: Summerfield, Fl Status: Offline Points: 2271 |
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Dave302,
I apologize for my reply to come out so blunt sounding, really didn't intend for it to be like that . Once again, I hope your results are positive with no more leaks. Todd
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www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires. No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t. Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone. |
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dave302
Senior Member Joined: 08-October-2009 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 3171 |
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To Aquartlow, It is okay, there is no need to apologize . You had given an excellent answer when you had said that you had used a completely round sided o-ring on your kickdown lever shaft, and you have not had any leaks in the past 18 months. You did not sound blunt to me at all. That is a perfect answer. Thank you for the answers.
Also, I had forgot to mention in my last post, that the threaded kickdown rod that is coming out of the transmission case (the threaded rod that the kickdown lever is installed on), is no longer wet and seeping with transmission fluid anymore, since the new o-ring has been installed on it. Which would lead me to believe that it is defineteley the shifter shaft seal that is leaking. Because the drips of transmission fluid are coming from directly under the shifter shaft seal.
Edited by dave302 - 19-August-2014 at 1:41PM |
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