73 Torino Sport Set base timing

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   Hey guys I just picked my my first gran torino after owner an LTD for years.The car is not currently running because Im guessing the car needed a carb rebuild.So i rebuilt the carb,set the needles all the way in until the springs were fully compressed and then 2 turns out is that correct?
Also i need to find a way to set base timing,I turned the engine until i was on compression stroke and then I put the crank on 10* BTDC is this correct?

After I did that should I drop the Distributor and have the rotor pointing at 1st Cylinder on the distributor cap?

If this is not correct let me know.

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73clint Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 02-February-2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14	Post Options Post Reply Quote 73clint Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 73 Torino Sport Set base timing Posted: 03-February-2015 at 6:43AM
	Hey guys I just picked my my first gran torino after owner an LTD for years.The car is not currently running because Im guessing the car needed a carb rebuild.So i rebuilt the carb,set the needles all the way in until the springs were fully compressed and then 2 turns out is that correct? Also i need to find a way to set base timing,I turned the engine until i was on compression stroke and then I put the crank on 10* BTDC is this correct? After I did that should I drop the Distributor and have the rotor pointing at 1st Cylinder on the distributor cap? If this is not correct let me know.
	Rides like a cream puff

73clint Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 02-February-2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14	Post Options Post Reply Quote 73clint Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03-February-2015 at 8:06AM
	It has the c6 400m running a motorcraft 2150 with pertronix electronic ignition.
	Rides like a cream puff

madmaxtorino Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Zombie Killing Training Instructor Joined: 04-August-2010 Location: Lawrenceburg Tn Status: Offline Points: 971	Post Options Post Reply Quote madmaxtorino Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04-February-2015 at 7:05AM
	that will get you close, then set it with a light.
	Allan Revelation 6:8 When there is no more room in Hell, the dead will walk the Earth.

Rockatansky Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rockatansky Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04-February-2015 at 1:43PM
	this also applies to your 400 'back when' I was taught a trick, it involves a strip of paper in the points, you twist on the rotor to hold the advance full then slowly rotate the dizzy body(I forget which direction) until the points release the paper strip... snug down dizzy clamp bolt but it won't work with Pertronix installed, and I have no idea if the Pertronics will light a test light as the armature passes by the stator... so you're probably on the right track with the plan up above dizzy housing Counter-Clockwise is Retard, Clockwise is Advance let us know if you need exact factory timing specs
	72 GT Ute

Rockatansky Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rockatansky Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04-February-2015 at 2:23PM
	Posted by machoneman 2/3/2015, 06:24 PM http://351c.net/board/index.php/topic/3473-351x-final-hurdles/#entry8815 " ... use your crank bolt and breaker bar to slowly turn the engine over until you get near say 30-40 degrees BTDC. Stop, TURN ON THE IGNITION, hook up your timing light, use a pal's hand or painter's tape to hold the light's trigger down. Advance the crank bolt until the light flashes. No flash + you're 180 degrees out. Fix and try again. If it flashes, your on track but note where it flashed! Try it again (remember it will take another 2 revolutions) and see where it flashes at say 10 BTDC, 15, 20, whatever. Turn the ditzy housing until you get that light to flash exactly where you want it (I'll say 10 BTDC) and lock that puppy down. Prime your fuel system last and be sure fuel is right at the carb's shooters or EFI's injector tips. Hit the key and that puppy should fire right up! "
	72 GT Ute

73clint Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 02-February-2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14	Post Options Post Reply Quote 73clint Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05-February-2015 at 4:51AM
	Update:Still no Luck FUEL Float level is set right,doesn't overfill Jets are spraying Fuel Pump is good Gas should be fresh put 91 octane in it SO FUEL DELIVERY IS GOOD -although there is a small leak from the butterfly shaft but not big. IGNITION A25 Autolite Spark plugs-Just put them in the motor out of the box,looks like they are gapped at about 45-50 Pertronix Ignition replacing the points-Black wire to - on coil and Red wire to + on coil with switched ignition to it.I checked for Spark with a duralast coil and it was yellow so I replaced the coil with PERTRONIX FLAME THROWER as recommended,but I havent checked spark color after I installed it. TIMING I plugged the #1 spark plug hole with a paper towl and turned the motor clockwise by hand until the towel popped off and then I continued clockwise until i reached the 0 TDC on the pointer.(Should the Piston be slightly before it reaches the very top or slightly after it reaches the top?) *With the Pointer on 0 degrees should the rotor be slightly before it hits the #1 plug on the Distributor cap ?,right on? or after it? Im doing this by myself as I dont have a helper so Im just trying to do my best,your help is greatly appreciated.
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Rockatansky Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rockatansky Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05-February-2015 at 11:17AM
	with the pointer on zero the rotor should be just a shad past the #1 terminal, as the spark should've occurred before zero. the rotor should be dead on at around 10* BTDC but here's the thing... the rotor doesn't tell the coil to fire the plug, the primary trigger device does, in this case it's the Pertronix unit see how the metal on the end of the rotor is wide rather than pointy? that's to compensate for rotor phase (Yes I understand some people don't believe in Rotor Phase but that's why the rotor can't be pointy) as long as the metal of the rotor has the terminal covered at around 10* BTDC you're good. 2nd criteria is that the advance can is centered in it's 'free sweep area', or as close to straight forward as possible favoring pointing toward the drivers side (US) is it possible that the engine is flooded? to start a flooded engine you either a) take out the plugs, crank the engine a bit & wait for it to dry out then replace the plugs after gapping them to i's say around .040" for your set up there or b) you can crank the engine with your foot pegged to the floor holding the carb wide open to allow air into the engine to dry it out & hopefully find an air/fuel mixture that will fire & get the engine running. it's important to hold your foot down & not let it up or you'll be pumping more fuel in instead of air. when the engine starts coming to life don't let off the gas, it still needs air! don't let off the gas pedal until you think the engine is gonna blow sky high. it needs to rev & clear out either method requires that the choke is not closed, you may need to prop it wide open with a tool of some sort that can not slide through the carb & down the manifold but first I'd check for spark Edited by Rockatansky - 05-February-2015 at 12:04PM
	72 GT Ute

californiajohnny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609	Post Options Post Reply Quote californiajohnny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05-February-2015 at 2:30PM
	^^^ X2 !!! exactly what he said^^^
	JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION

73clint Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 02-February-2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 14	Post Options Post Reply Quote 73clint Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06-February-2015 at 5:18AM
	Rockatansky-You took the win Thank you Sir It played out exactly as you instructed down to the step on the pedal to make it suck air,it was not flooded,but i pumped the gas alot and then held the pedal down while cranking,timing was dead on and everything is good,car came to life and running fine,I will get a timing light and play with it,but at least its running.
	Rides like a cream puff

californiajohnny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609	Post Options Post Reply Quote californiajohnny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06-February-2015 at 9:09AM
	so it wasn't flooded, it just needed the gas into the manifold and cylinders initially, guess i overlooked that, makes sense now since it had been sitting and you cleaned the carb, it hadn't got any fuel in there in a while. glad you got it going!
	JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION