Choke Wire |
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Online Points: 5802 |
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Posted: 20-April-2015 at 9:30AM |
I am getting ready to install my new Holley this weekend when I finally get the last of the parts. In the mean time I wired up a circuit for the electric choke. I have a relay setup for my Pertronix ignition in my distributor that's a keyed 12 volt source. I added an extra wire into this circuit. I have a 20 amp fuse on this circuit. Will this be enough to handle both the Pertronix and the choke? Thanks.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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Big Bird
Senior Member Joined: 25-August-2013 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 4194 |
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I don't know if 72 had one, but my 79 had electric choke, and it's wire feed worked fine for my edelbrock carb
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"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds? |
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Online Points: 5802 |
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No, stock was a hot air choke, so I need a new circuit.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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Billy C
Senior Member Joined: 10-February-2010 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 947 |
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I think that's plenty. The choke draws very little current after warmup. I'm thinking somewhere around 800mA average. It may draw a bit more at start-up when the coil mechanism inside is cold.
I'd still give it it's own fuse because if something goes wrong in the system will be easier to diagnose. Come to think of it, I may have wired mine with the ignition because I ran out of pins on the factory connector through the firewall. It's now on a dash-mounted breaker for easy reset and identification. 20A is what I used as well.
Edited by Billy C - 21-April-2015 at 12:45PM |
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-Billy Conturo
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Online Points: 5802 |
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Thanks Billy. I will stock with the 20 amp, my wiring will handle that without issue.
On this site this guy says it spiked to 6.5 amps, than dropped down to about .75 amps when running steady, so you weren't far off. |
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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BackInBlack
Senior Member Joined: 11-January-2011 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1013 |
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Just found this thread...
I've got a few extra wires on the engine harness the previous owner cut off and didn't label. I white/black stripe and a Black/yellow dashes The white wire with a black stripe, From the Ford manuals, I think was for an electric choke. When I turn on the ignition I see no voltage...can anyone confirm this? thanks. |
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-John
1973 GTS |
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Online Points: 5802 |
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My car had no choke wire, my car was hot air choke. I ended up using a relay to run the 12 volt supply to the choke. Easy install, no hacking of the factory harness.
I am away on business but I can check those wires for you when I have time.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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lynchster
Senior Member Joined: 07-January-2006 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 2150 |
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I think I found an unused lead I can use for my choke. It's key powered and uses a short fuse in the block that is unused in my car. I think it might be for the A/C clutch in a car equipped with A/C. |
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Chuck
72 Gran Torino Sport 13 Taurus SHO "Mr Pig" |
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BackInBlack
Senior Member Joined: 11-January-2011 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1013 |
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Billy C remembered that the it connected directly to the alternator/regulator. I traced it through the harness from the engine (where the previous owner hacked off the end near the carb) all the way through to a spade connector near the starter selenoid. Its a white wire with black stripe. Originally the wire connected directly to the 12V of the alternator.
Since I swapped over to a 1-wire alternator that connection to 12V went away. Now Im looking for a 12V ignition on source for the choke. Tried a green wire/red stripe at the selenoid...bad idea it is tied to an inline resistance wire somewhere. I connected it to the choke and the voltage at the choke dropped to 5V. The inline resistance (fuse) wire limited the current to the choke and caused the voltage drop. The previous owner hacked the choke to another harness; 2 pin isolated harness that comes through the firewall right next to the box connectors. It has a red wire with green dots and a brown wire with green dots. The red wire is 12V on when the key is on. I can't figure out what these wires were connected to originally. At least for future reference for others...I did trace down the original electric choke wire in the harness. I did find the AC clutch wire it was on a separate harness with 3 pin connectors and only 2 wires. Since I'm using AC I can't repurpose that circuit for the choke.
Edited by BackInBlack - 23-May-2017 at 4:37PM |
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-John
1973 GTS |
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BackInBlack
Senior Member Joined: 11-January-2011 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 1013 |
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Update for others...
The Red/yellow and brown/yellow dots are for emissions EGR selenoid control. Driven by a little red relay box under the passenger side dash. The choke wire is in the main harness that runs between the starter selenoid on the fender (voltage regulator) through the harness into the engine harness. It is a white/blk stripe wire. Looks like a 16 AWG wire. Since I converted to one-wire alternator which remove the old voltage regulator and harness, I added a relay that is switched with the IGN on wire that used to run to the original voltage regulator. It will switch the electric choke on/off with the ignition. Anyway...I wanted to add that to the thread to help the next guy that is trying to trace down the original electric choke wire. Edited by BackInBlack - 08-June-2017 at 2:52AM |
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-John
1973 GTS |
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