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Body bushing set for Rancheros

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DaleR09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaleR09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Body bushing set for Rancheros
    Posted: 05-September-2016 at 8:05AM
    I know that this has been hashed out in other sections, but since I have a couple of 72 Ranchero's, I thought I'd put this out there for them specifically. This is what I've done so far........
    I replaced my beat up old factory rubber bushings with a set of Energy Suspension kit # 3.4115G urethane bushings, for a 72 Chevelle. After I received them, I realized that 6 of the bushings were going to be the wrong inside diameter(3/4"), when all of the bushings need to be 1" . To fix the problem, I used a standard length 1" hole saw, with a piece of 3/8" rigid plumbing pipe installed inside of it, approx 1/4" longer than the hole saw, to use it for a pilot, then installed the bushing into a 2" exhaust pipe coupling from a short exhaust extension, so that it had the taper to it at the end, to hold the bushing round and keep it from rotating.
    I then proceeded to drill out the inside of the bushing, going 1/2 way in, then flipping it over to finish it off.
    If I was to do it again, my suggestion would be to order the parts separately. So, to make a custom kit for one, you need to order 12 each of the part #4041 and #4044, that will cover the main bushings, and then 2 ea of the part # 4042 and #4045 for the rad support.


Edited by DaleR09 - 07-September-2016 at 4:17PM
'72 Ranchero GT Q code (Sold)
'63 F100 Unibody CV swap
'03 Ranger 4X4 Stepside
'03 F350
'14 Fusion AWD Titanium
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russosborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russosborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-October-2016 at 3:07PM
If you ordered the parts separately, would you still need to drill out the holes like you did, or does that eliminate that extra step?
Thanks,
Russ
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DaleR09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaleR09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-October-2016 at 3:12PM
Ordering them separately would eliminate the need to drill them out. I haven't had the chance to find out what the price would be, though. If you do, please let us know what the cost is. Thanks
'72 Ranchero GT Q code (Sold)
'63 F100 Unibody CV swap
'03 Ranger 4X4 Stepside
'03 F350
'14 Fusion AWD Titanium
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-July-2021 at 3:04PM
My last post about Shane's car caused a lot of discussion about body bushings as well as it has been a LONG discussed topic on the forum!
so here it is...
BODY BUSHINGS EXPLAINED as I know it to be...
I am including a bunch of pictures that I have showing everything I think you need to know...
There is a comparison pic of a good used one from our cars next to the new Chevelle one.
There is a pic of OUR bolt in vs our "puck". Our puck is actually a sleeved bushing but it does not have the little tab the bolt in one does. It is CLEARLY marked by being painted green. The Chevelle replacement for this is an actual SOLID "puck". If you look at our frame all the bolt in holes have the little cut out "index" for the index nipple on the bushing BUT the 2 holes on the crossmember over the axle are plain circles for the plain circle GREEN sleeved "puck" Ford used. We also use the 2nd pair of round Chevelle pucks on our frame rail in place of the Ford rectangle ones(YES, They fit just fine up in the body channel, no need to cut down to rectangle). There is a picture of my bushing stash as well! When you have done as many of these as I have... YOU SAVE PARTS!!
As a follow up, I have seen on the Chevelle sites where they sell individual PLAIN STEEL WASHERS you buy at the hardware store for $3.95-8.95 EACH. I also included pics of the plates that I now have had made and will be available for purchase to repair any rotted bushing area you might have. They fit with very little trimming directly in place where they need to for our cars. SPECIFICALLY MADE!
The kits below are NOT Energy Suspension, they are NOT Poly Urethane and they do NOT require you to reuse any of your hardware! They are a hard rubber like the originals with their own sleeves and washers in the bushings ready to go! They tighten down solid and i highly doubt you will ever be able to tell the difference from Poly but they will absorb more of the road noise.
Bottom line is this...
The Chevelle kit is a DIRECT fit for our cars. The Chevelle uses 8 bolt in bushings, 2 at the firewall, 2 on the rear crossmember over the axle then 4 on the rear behind the axle. Those are the 8 2 pc metal sleeved washered sets with the bolts. This is the wording on the SUPPLEMENT KIT which contains the extra 2 bushings not in the main set to make 4 bushings at the firewall like our cars have... 68-72 CHEVELLE & EL CAMINO AND MONTE CARLO FIREWALL SUPPLEMENT BODY MOUNT BUSHING KIT. NEW BODY MOUNT KITS ONLY COME WITH THE SUPPLEMENT BUSHINGS FOR A DUALCOWL MOUNT CAR. CONVERTIBLES, MONTE CARLOS AND SOME CHEVELLE COUPES COME WITH 4 COWL MOUNT BUSHINGS INSTEAD OF 2. THESE ARE THE EXTRA BUSHINGS. Following those 8 in the kit are 4 solid "pucks" as I call them. Chevelle uses 2 along the frame rail side by the front seats(like our rectangle ones) and 2 more on the frame rail in front of the rear wheels(SAME place as ours). The difference here is this... our cars use a puck along the rail and on the crossmember over the axle with the bolt in at the rear of the rail in front of the rear wheel. Chevelle uses the SAME bushings but in a different way... they put the 4 solid pucks on the frame rail and bolt in on the crossmember over the rear end. Our 4 door cars do the same thing but also add an additional puck on the rail to be a total of 6 pucks on the rail and bolt in over the rear end. The ONLY modification you need to do is cut one of the Chevelle pucks nipples from round to rectangle to fit the hole in our frame along the rail. You can plainly see the 8 large bushing sets, 4 pucks and 2x4pc core support bushings(they are separated in the pic) in all the pics.
You can find these kits in MANY places from $80-130. They all seem to be the same and are made in India.
I am also giving you the link to the SUPPLEMENT kit which gives you the extra 2 for the firewall... https://www.ebay.com/itm/124138263073?hash=item1ce7379221:g:8vgAAOSw3ydVgsfz
As for the core support, I also made repair panels like the ones from Bronco Graveyard only the right thickness for our frame and cut along one side to fit in place. These accept the BRONCO core support bushing set up which is more like ours. Ours and the Bronco have a THREADED bushing that sits ON the frame in the 6 sided hole with a cup the holds it in place from the bottom. The bolt goes up through the cup and screws IN TO THE THREADED top bushing. The six sided hole and molded bushing holds it in place to be tightened down. The bolt sticks up through the bushing a couple inches. THEN the core support sits directly on that bushing. You put shims in between the bushing and the core support to align the fenders up and down for front door gap adjustment(you'll see these weird shaped shims when you take yours apart). After the core support is put on with a nut and washer on top of core support that holds the core support down to the frame bushing. Essentially a 2 rubber set up for a good solid nose. Same as the frame bushings throughout the car. The Chevelle uses 4 bushings on a long bolt which is not as solid as our set up and will cause even more movement of your nose! Ever watch your hood and fenders move as you go over bumps or push hard in a corner?? Imagine that WORSE! Use the Bronco set up to be right, they are pricey but will be worth it.
Carl, Member/Admin since 07. Still the same admin/moderator REGUL8R just needed a 2nd account for more picture space.
Owner- www.CaNDeCustoms.com
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