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big block headers for a 72 torino?

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Sgarcia16 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sgarcia16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: big block headers for a 72 torino?
    Posted: 09-March-2017 at 7:39AM
Anyone know a good place to find some cheapish big block headers for a 72 torino? I found a set at jegs but they were pretty pricey I was wondering if yall had any secret websites or something
-Samuel
1972 Gran Torino
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-June-2017 at 6:23PM
Cheap and big block don't mix on our cars lol
Try looking up FPA hedders. They have alot of the jigs and make stuff for other companies.
Not cheap but they will be the best option.
Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2017 at 9:54AM
Hooker 6126's fit and work quite well for me, designed to fit '72-'75 intermediates with 429/460, but do just fine on my '79.  
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rancheromac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-June-2018 at 3:32AM
did you install w/motor in ? I bought crites mounts for my 460 conversion into 79 chero because they said there headers will fit. I know I may have to reroute brake line, but don't know if crites is designed for ac/ps or if they are going to need other mods ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-June-2018 at 5:21AM
With using stock/factory 460 intermediate engine mounts and Hooker 6126 headers, passenger side will go right in with engine "in place", the driver's side will require engine to be lifted on that side(may even require PS gear removal). The Crites built engine mounts throw this info out the window due to their "as built" differences, using their headers with their mounts is probably your only "turn-key" option. I never really liked the idea of a slip fit collector on a street use vehicle, due to potential exhaust leaks or for me the use of a wideband and it's readings being skewed caused by those leaks(potential of course).    
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rancheromac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2018 at 9:37AM
I am not wild about idea, they come as all tubes separate. . how about brake lines. ? do they need rerouted ? why do the hookers say 1972-75, 76 was last of 460 ? yours is 79 chero, which is same body as 76, so if I go hooker, the above wrangling is all you mentioned above ?, I think it would be easier than all those separate tubes from crites , thanks for any other info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2018 at 12:25PM
I left my brake lines as factory, but fabbed up some really simple 18 ga sheet metal heat shields to protect from heat, I used self tapping tek screws to attach shields to crossmember. I also did the same type of heat shielding for the A/C's evaporator case, I melted my original evap/heater core case when breaking in the engine after being rebuilt Ouch, luckily I found an NOS case online. I also applied self adhesive heat shielding wrap to case before the metal shield was installed, what a difference in heat reduction and A/C performance. The pitman arm fits real tight to the driver's side header when turning to left hand lock, may even need a VERY slight dimple in primary tube, the pitman arm will almost do it itself. On the passenger side, the idler arm may need a bit of grinding(I had previously installed an aftermarket idler-may have been the difference from needing the clearancing), again very slightly to completely clear the steering linkage. If using Hooker 6126 on DOVE-C heads, I found header gaskets from Flatout does a great job at sealing and never had a leak, gasket #7021C. I also use 1" stainless header bolts with a small circumference stainless washer so I won't remove and or scratch header coating. IIRC, #5 or #6 primary tube's RH header bolt will need to be only 3/4" long due to tight tube radius.

Edited by aquartlow - 14-June-2018 at 12:27PM
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rancheromac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-June-2018 at 11:24AM
good info as always !
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aquartlow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-June-2018 at 11:48AM
Originally posted by rancheromac rancheromac wrote:

good info as always !
 
Just hope all and/or any of that jibberish above was at least somewhat helpful.  
www.supermotors.net/22468
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone.
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