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71 Ranchero Radiator Help. Spewing everywhere

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Jordanbrown123 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 10:07AM
Here are some pics of the water pump. Its a driver side inlet. I think its a clockwise pump but im not entirely sure. 


71 Ranchero, 351w.
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Jordanbrown123 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 10:08AM
71 Ranchero, 351w.
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Big Bird View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 10:38AM
there should be a back cover on the water pump. Did you take it off? It's holes need to be the same shape and orientation as the water ports in your timing cover.
Your fan is the right direction for non-serpentine.
I took my radiator cap off and played with my car, and I can't duplicate the Volcano. It will "Burp" a little after the thermostat opens if I open the throttle and then let off hard, but not much.


Edited by Big Bird - 24-July-2017 at 10:48AM
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 11:35AM
That appears to be a stock (non-high volume/non-high flow) water pump. They are used on 1970 through 1977 302's. They might have been used as late as 1982 on some engines. The inner water pump blades/vanes appear to be for a clockwise rotation, but I am not 100% sure about this.
 
The part number says that the water pump is from a 1977 ford truck such as an f-150, f-250 or an f-350. But as another member said it might have been replaced at some time in the past.


Edited by dave302 - 24-July-2017 at 12:40PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 11:50AM
There is a picture below of the type of water pump inner blades/vanes that you have. They appear to be for a clockwise rotation. Maybe one of the other members will know if they are for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2017 at 12:18PM
Yea i removed the backing plate. The pump doesn't appear to have anything wrong with it assuming its cw. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 9:34AM
There are  couple-three different plate water flow hole patterns, and the back plate has to match your timing cover.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 1:30PM
at first it looks like the typical thermostat opening heave until quite a bit too much blows out the hole
 
spew is a fair description
 
what happens with the cap on & tight?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 4:41PM
Your water pump is a clockwise rotation water pump.

Edited by dave302 - 31-July-2017 at 9:36PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 4:42PM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

what happens with the cap on & tight?
 
He said that he went and got a new rad cap, hoping this was the problem. He jacked the front end up and filled it up with coolant to the cold line. He started the car up and let it warm up with the cap off. No issues/bubbles/spraying out... untill the thermostat opened up. then all hell broke loose. Just started pouring out the rad. So he slapped on the new rad cap and within 1 minute the cap opened up and it let the water out. About half of the radiator worth.... The water wasnt even very hot coming out. No steam or anything.


Edited by dave302 - 26-July-2017 at 8:26AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2017 at 5:06PM
Yea the backing plate lines up properly. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. I hope all this is just a radiator blockage and not an engine blockage. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2017 at 4:05AM
FWIW the Cold line only comes into play after the system has been purged. there may be an air pocket in there causing the excessive T-stat heave? after sitting for such a long while there may be scale blocking the head gasket passages helping to contain an abnormal air pocket. this reminds me of an old thread on the old Cleveland board, same story ... long storage and his was actually overheating but nothing he did from the outside made any difference T-stats water pumps radiator nothing helped until he tore into it to find scale blocking the head gasket passages
 
i found the conclusion too bad the pics died but what he's describing is that the holes in the block deck surface were blocked with sl*g that he dremel'd through http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/thread/1065402298
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2017 at 4:06AM
s l a g sl*g ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2017 at 10:37AM
Going to remove the intake manifold too see if i can see a blockage somwhere. But before that, does anyone think that raising the rad caps psi from a 13 to 16 is a good idea? Maybe the system is just higher pressure than the stock 13? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2017 at 11:07AM
If you use a 16 pound cap it will hold three additional (more) P.S.I. of pressure in your cooling system, than the 13 pound cap. It might be worth it to try. But it still might not stop the geyser that you are experiencing in your cooling system.

Edited by dave302 - 31-July-2017 at 11:19AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2017 at 11:17AM
If you use a 16 pound cap it will also increase the cooling system pressure against the radiator cores and radiator tanks, the cooling system gaskets (such as head gaskets), the cooling system seals and the cooling system hoses. When compared to using the 13 pound cap.

Edited by dave302 - 31-July-2017 at 11:23AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2017 at 11:54AM
thanks man, Ill give it a go 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dave302 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2017 at 11:57AM
Your welcome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don V. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-August-2017 at 9:09AM
Haven't heard from you and your problem came up again earlier. Another suggestion was to check your vacuum advance vacuum. It runs off an amplifier and if it's not creating the proper advance, coolant cavitation can begin around the intake and flow when the thermostat opens. Usually a cold start problem but a problem that prevents getting to a properly warmed up engine. Easy to check with a vacuum gauge.

Edited by Don V. - 12-August-2017 at 9:10AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordanbrown123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-August-2017 at 1:14PM
Alright, was on vacation for a while so i couldnt get back to you guys but heres the news.Finally got to stripping the motor down. And i found the issue... Nastiest blockage ever. Just rock solid. 
Took me forever to get it cleaned up nice. A little scared that the motor might have some spots like this... But ill be able to see it when i take the heads off to do a gasket swap. 

Thanks for all the help guys! Big smile




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-August-2017 at 3:09PM
 Shocked wow holy crap!! yep that'll do it!
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-August-2017 at 3:43PM
exploratory surgery successful
 
might wanna check the oil screen in the pan for timing gear teeth & valve stem oil seals
 
those may need replacing too
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