Rebuild or what? |
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guilf1
Member Joined: 05-February-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 57 |
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Posted: 08-February-2004 at 8:36PM |
I'm seekng a little advice. I have a 72 sport, 351c 4v. Oil pressure according to the guage is very low (10 or less) once warmed up. It only comes up to maybe 12 psi on the highway. I'm wondering if I need to rebuild the bottom end. I'm thinking about new main and rod bearings and an oil pump. Can someone second that opinion, or tell me I'm an idiot? Thanks folks, Al |
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OleDutchD
Member Joined: 02-August-2003 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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You're no idiot, Al! But only installing new bearings will only buy you some time if the crank needs true'd up. Getting into the short block can open a whole can of worms that you should consider being prepared to address in a "worst case" scenario (rings, timing gear/chain, cam/lifters, etc). Not trying to be a wet rag, but when an engine has enough wear to start dropping oil pressure to that extent, chances are your bearings aren't the only things that will be showing the effects of accumulated mileage. Might be worth considering a short block kit. Just something to think about before you go to all the trouble.
Good luck, Kevin |
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Just an analog guy stuck in a digital world!
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guilf1
Member Joined: 05-February-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 57 |
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Thanks, Kevin. I'm considering a hotter cam anyway, so I'd probably end up with the short kit while I have the engine out. By true-ing the crank, do you mean having a shop mill the journals? I was hoping to avoid that trip. Also, what would be a good way of determining current bearing clearances, Plasti-gauge? Surprisingly, the engine runs very well, never burns oil or runs hot. Aside from some carb adjustments, I haven't had a problem. Yet. Pictures at http://home.att.net/~a.guilford/index/hotrods.htm Thanks again! Al |
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GranTorinoSport
Admin Group Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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If you are planning on putting a hotter cam in, might I suggest a complete rebuild. The reason I say that is the engine will endure more stress from producing more power, and as reported in the last month or two of Car Craft Magazine, you can literally have your valvetrain fail in a very short amount of time. It would really suck to get your engine built and then have a rocker arm or pushrod break...
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Scott Eklund
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OleDutchD
Member Joined: 02-August-2003 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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You really should consider the more comprehensive approach to this, Al. Yes, the machine shop would check the journals for roundness and grind/polish accordingly. Plastigage has its' place for double checking general clearances in a fresh motor, but wouldn't be very reliable (IMHO) in this instance. When you're checking clearances down to the .0005" range, mic's and calipers are the only way to go.
Scott brings up another valid point as well. OEM Ford Cleveland valves are two-piece construction, and are notorious for dramatic failures when exposed to higher spring and acceleration rates. Even brand new OEM valves have been known to drop their heads. If there's any way at all that you can swing it, a one-piece SS valve would be good and relatively inexpensive insurance. I know this seems to be snow-balling on you, and it takes more money, but it's well spent in the long run. Kevin |
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Just an analog guy stuck in a digital world!
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guilf1
Member Joined: 05-February-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 57 |
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Hey, I like a good snowball fight. I was hoping someone might talk me out of it, but it looks like the total rebuild is the smart thing to do. One more question if you will: I've heard that the 351c's are notorious for poor oil flow. Is this true, and if so, what would be the best route to take to fix, or will the rebuild be good enough? Keep in mind, I do not intend to race, but I'd like to be quick off the line. The wife is gonna love this...... Thanks Scott and Kevin. You guys are a big help! Al |
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