The Ford Torino Page Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Model Specific Forum > 1972-1976 Ford and Mercury
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Rebuild or what?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Rebuild or what?

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
guilf1 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 05-February-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 57
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guilf1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rebuild or what?
    Posted: 08-February-2004 at 8:36PM

I'm seekng a little advice. I have a 72 sport, 351c 4v. Oil pressure according to the guage is very low (10 or less) once warmed up. It only comes up to maybe 12 psi on the highway.

I'm wondering if I need to rebuild the bottom end. I'm thinking about new main and rod bearings and an oil pump. Can someone second that opinion, or tell me I'm an idiot?

Thanks folks,

Al

Back to Top
OleDutchD View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 02-August-2003
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: 151
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OleDutchD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2004 at 2:21AM
You're no idiot, Al! But only installing new bearings will only buy you some time if the crank needs true'd up. Getting into the short block can open a whole can of worms that you should consider being prepared to address in a "worst case" scenario (rings, timing gear/chain, cam/lifters, etc). Not trying to be a wet rag, but when an engine has enough wear to start dropping oil pressure to that extent, chances are your bearings aren't the only things that will be showing the effects of accumulated mileage. Might be worth considering a short block kit. Just something to think about before you go to all the trouble.
Good luck,

Kevin
Just an analog guy stuck in a digital world!
Back to Top
guilf1 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 05-February-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 57
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guilf1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2004 at 10:03PM

Thanks, Kevin. I'm considering a hotter cam anyway, so I'd probably end up with the short kit while I have the engine out.

By true-ing the crank, do you mean having a shop mill the journals? I was hoping to avoid that trip. Also, what would be a good way of determining current bearing clearances, Plasti-gauge?

Surprisingly, the engine runs very well, never burns oil or runs hot. Aside from some carb adjustments, I haven't had a problem. Yet.

Pictures at http://home.att.net/~a.guilford/index/hotrods.htm

Thanks again!

Al

Back to Top
GranTorinoSport View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar
Admin of "The Org"

Joined: 20-May-2003
Location: Seattle
Status: Offline
Points: 2287
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2004 at 10:17PM
If you are planning on putting a hotter cam in, might I suggest a complete rebuild. The reason I say that is the engine will endure more stress from producing more power, and as reported in the last month or two of Car Craft Magazine, you can literally have your valvetrain fail in a very short amount of time. It would really suck to get your engine built and then have a rocker arm or pushrod break...
Scott Eklund

Webmaster
Back to Top
OleDutchD View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 02-August-2003
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: 151
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OleDutchD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-February-2004 at 5:47PM
You really should consider the more comprehensive approach to this, Al. Yes, the machine shop would check the journals for roundness and grind/polish accordingly. Plastigage has its' place for double checking general clearances in a fresh motor, but wouldn't be very reliable (IMHO) in this instance. When you're checking clearances down to the .0005" range, mic's and calipers are the only way to go.
Scott brings up another valid point as well. OEM Ford Cleveland valves are two-piece construction, and are notorious for dramatic failures when exposed to higher spring and acceleration rates. Even brand new OEM valves have been known to drop their heads. If there's any way at all that you can swing it, a one-piece SS valve would be good and relatively inexpensive insurance.
I know this seems to be snow-balling on you, and it takes more money, but it's well spent in the long run.

Kevin

Just an analog guy stuck in a digital world!
Back to Top
guilf1 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 05-February-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 57
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guilf1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-February-2004 at 11:21PM

Hey, I like a good snowball fight. I was hoping someone might talk me out of it, but it looks like the total rebuild is the smart thing to do.

One more question if you will: I've heard that the 351c's are notorious for poor oil flow. Is this true, and if so, what would be the best route to take to fix, or will the rebuild be good enough? Keep in mind, I do not intend to race, but I'd like to be quick off the line.

The wife is gonna love this......

Thanks Scott and Kevin. You guys are a big help!

Al

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.094 seconds.