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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3941 |
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Pretty rough. It you have the time and tools to do some stripping, the parts will make you a nice chunk of change. Sad to say it is probably a parts car at this point. Consoles and the shifter related parts are big bucks. Probably not what you wanted to hear and I am sorry to be blunt. There are people here who would buy it as is to strip it.
I would rather have a floor shift for mine but the change is not worth it to me financially. My console has a cup holder which works great for my ice coffee. Haha.
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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3941 |
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It appears to be well optioned and the gauge package along with the wiring are always sought after.
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mfgriffin
Member Joined: 18-February-2021 Location: Indianapolis Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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Sadly, those are the things I was thinking of stripping before getting rid of it. Gauge cluster, steering wheel, center console, shifter and linkage. But yeah, I assumed it would probably go for parts. Sucks, but I've come to terms with it. I was told pretty much all rubber would need replaced, plus almost every panel has rust. I will probably offer it up on here in a month or two.
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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3941 |
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The wiring for the gauges is an important piece of the puzzle. I would take anything not requiring a cherry picker. Column, all shifter and console stuff, all the interior plastic. If you can get the plastic A-pillar pieces out in one piece, I will buy them. They run from the floor up along the windshield to the roof. You may find that the plastic is so brittle it falls apart in your hand. Look under the rear seat and there may be a build sheet from the assembly line. Might be a nice piece to frame and hang on your wall.
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mfgriffin
Member Joined: 18-February-2021 Location: Indianapolis Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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Rock on, I'm going to be tooling around with a buddy tomorrow. If I can get them off I'll pm you.
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5802 |
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I agree with John, it is pretty far gone. I am not going to guess on the value of the car, but based on the amount of rust and the lack of the original engine, I doubt it would be very high. There are other guys on the forum that part cars and would have a better idea on it's value. You'd probably make more money parting it out and selling the parts, but it is more work that way.
It does have lots of good parts that you could pull out. With the buckets, floor shift and console, you could restore them and install into your newer Torino. If the door panels are not totally shot, they are worth saving (they can be re-dyed and the arm rests can be replaced). If that fuel tank in the trunk isn't rotten, it's worth keeping too as the 72-73 tanks aren't easy to find. Also if the hood is rotten, the scoop can be cut out so it can be grafted onto another hood. Of course, a 351C engine is always worth something too.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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72 RS 351
Senior Member Joined: 04-September-2014 Location: Knoxville TN Status: Offline Points: 2765 |
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Are the inserts for the sport door panels repairable or is anything made to replace them? My left one is not attached very well, and I may want to swap back to the sport panels for my other Ranchero(I have my old 72 GT front interior swapped into it). Those original bucket seats are likely worth saving, people will value them. I think most of them can be restored, with new foam and coverings.
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Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
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mfgriffin
Member Joined: 18-February-2021 Location: Indianapolis Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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Plastic a pillars are cracked and brittle by the floorboards. I pulled the sway bar, trunk lock, and rear bumper guards. Tried to pull off the dash pad, but the parts were so brittle I decided to stop. Unfortunately, I'm just going to offer it up to someone interested in it.
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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3941 |
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Mine are cracked halfway up the windshield on both sides and the guy used a tube full of butyl caulk on both sides to stick them in place.
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72 RS 351
Senior Member Joined: 04-September-2014 Location: Knoxville TN Status: Offline Points: 2765 |
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The dash pad is a somewhat light and simple part. It has many small screws holding it in place. If you get those all out, it should be little trouble to lift out and back. The dash though, everything below the top pad, is very fragile and large. It isn't really that heavy, but is very bulky. That you might wait until later, when everything around it is removed first. The dash is about half sheet metal structure, and the thin plastic exterior. It has lots of small screws holding it together, which is where almost all cracks will begin. When handled gently, the dash isn't that bad to handle and remove.
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Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W 73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later. 92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W |
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mfgriffin
Member Joined: 18-February-2021 Location: Indianapolis Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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I don't think I'm capable of the level of delicacy required to not just destroy everything. Lol
Also, handsofstone... Someone glued them in with caulk!?
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handsofstone
Senior Member Joined: 13-April-2018 Location: Northeast Status: Offline Points: 3941 |
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The guy used the black window sealer and filled the trim to hold things together. He is a flippper so he only cares about pushing cars and parts for high prices.
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