Temporary Push Button Start

sounds like you may have fender mounted starter solenoid sticking.more common than the column mounted ignition switch going bad.pull the coil ignition wire out of the coil,with someone in the driver seat,have them crank the car over and release the key.If the car continues to crank over,pull the red/blue wire off the fender starter solenoid,if the starter still turns, the solenoid is sticking.If not, then the column mounted switch is probably bad.if you just want to make the car run with faulty solenoid,turn key to the run position.and with jumper cables.jumper positive post of battery to starter cable lug at the fender mounted solenoid when car starts remove the jumper cable to stop starter from cranking after start-up.just make sure car is in park/neutral while doing this.

make sure that the metal rod that activates the switch is returning to the run position,the return spring in the switch pushs the switch to the run position,when you release the key from the crank position.just make sure the switch isn't mechanical held on,when you replace the switch.

Are you sure that the starter/solenoid wiring is correct? Should have the positive cable to one stud with the ignition and body cables on that side as well. The starter cable should be on the other large stud. The signal from the ignition switch should be attached to the post on top closer to where the positive cable attaches. Also, have you checked to see if the switch to starter cable is rubbing on the frame or exhaust manifold?



This is how my '76 is set up...

Jwacho,was readin over your post.you said you replaced the ign cylinder, solenoid and starter.did you mean ignition switch,rather then ignition cylinder?

I just pulled the ignition trigger off and put the negative back on and it still tried to start.

Make sure...before you go on...that your starter cable is not grounding out somewhere between the solenoid and the starter. Make sure all that insulated wrap is on it and that no bare cable is touching the manifold or engine block or the frame or anything. Also, make sure where the cable attaches to the starter isn't grounding out either, if you have the big fat stud on the side of the starter case it could be arcing to the frame or exhaust. That's why I couldn't use the $10 starter I got on eBay. It had a different case (and was also for a manual transmission).

These insulated wraps are supposed to keep the cable from rubbing through but if they shift around, it doesn't take long to wear through the rubber insulation on the cable especially with exhaust heat right there. These are the wraps I mean. Yours may be missing:



Don't mind that one end of my cable is in the cool air intake tube, I had it out of the way while I ran other wires/cables to where they needed to go.

Edited by occupant - 24-May-2011 at 4:38PM

Oh they probably take the same returns back and put them on the shelf, working or not. Some parts houses are lazy like that. They won't even test it, they'll see it looks new in box, they put it back on the shelf.

could write a novel on all the Bad parts recieved from the jobbers.first thing I do when I get apart over the counter or get delivered,I open the box in front of the sales person/delivery person to inspect the part for signs of install or even core returns.this subject might be worthy of a thread!