Oil Pump Failure

I was driving to work this morning when the worst happened, my car died going 70 on the interstate.  I was driving along when the motor died,  moved to the side of the road tried to diagnose on the side of the road...no spark.  Got  it towed home checked rotor button...alinnment pin broke, slop in distributor drive, Hmmmmmmmmm. I pulled out the distbirutor and found about 5 teeth sheared off...but why?  I took the extra vehicle to college for my class, I  got to wondering what made the teeth shear off like that... oil pump seisure? Maybe, I returned home to test my theory, I grabbed a socket and a long extension and tried to turn the drive by hand... nothing... my oil pump took a dump.  I have the '73 Ford shop manual and it gives the way to do it without pulling motor... I don't have the money to pull the motor and give it a hp build like I want, so I am hoping that the oil pump replacement will work for now and I hope no other damage was done.  Should I put a stock replacement back in or go with a high pressure or high volume pump, any recommentations?  I also have to pull the front cover to put a cam in it just to be on the safe side. I figure that after 35 yeary it is about time for a new cam.  Who only knows how many miles are on this car...the odo only says 35,000...yeah right.  I am going with a slight perf. cam .458 int./.484 exh. 260/270 dur. matching lifters and double roller timing set.  This will be the first cam I have ever done... and tips or tricks to help me out?  Is it still recommended to soak the lifters, I've heard of ill effects if this is done.  This ordeal made for a horrible start to the day.  Thanks for all your help and have a happy 4th, Chris

The oil pump intermediate shaft is locked up, I cannot even turn it with a ratchet.  However, I will check the bearings. Thanks

This is the first cam I will be doing, is there a special tool to remove and install the cam bearings?  What oil pump should I use: stock, high pressure, high volume?  I am hoping the engine had enough residual oil and pressure and did no damage to the rest of the engine.  When it happeded, I immediately put it in neutral and coasted to a stop accross 4 lanes of morning traffic.  Sorry to hear about yours though meemooer, all I can do is hope that no more damage is done than the dist., cam, and oil pump.  I'll end up putting a new oil pump drive in it for safe measure.  However, I don't know what pump to use.  That would change the selection of the oil pump drive. Thanks all

I did not think the preload had to be set on hydraulic lifters.  I'll check the wear on the bearings for damage, I did not want to go overboard with the cam because it is still a daily driver. 

For added insurance when breaking in the new cam, throw a bottle of GM EOS in there, it's been highly recommended for flat tappet cams lately..  I used it on mine for the first two oil changes just to be sure...  You should be able to get it at any Generic Motors dealership..  I second the use of a regular pump, and a good look at what is in the bottom of your pan.  Pulling a cap to be sure won't hurt eaither as long as you reattach it to spec..  With any luck, with the motor shut down, you may not have killed any bearings, but what I find unusual is that the oil pump shaft usually breaks b4 the teeth strip off the dizzy gear..

 

Jim

 

Just from my limited exeperiance;  I spoke with the guy that runs MPG heads about my '72 351c 4V CJ, and I would run a good quality stock pump, with the Moroso spring kit.

If you toasted the cam bearings, you probabably have at least a bunch of wear in the bottom end..  And if you've been sending metal through the motor from the cam lobes, you should take this as a sign and go through the whole motor.  Yes to good stainless valves, and for a decent combo and general Cleveland advice, check out the 335 series forum on Network54 (http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/)

Well, I pulled the engine and got it all tore down.  Before I got it on the stand, I soaked all the exhaust manifold bolts with PB Blaster.  All the bolts came right out, thank goodness for PB. 

All the rods and mains are fine, minimal pitting and wear on the crank.  I may not need to have it machined undersize.  But I'll let the machine shop measure them.  All the cylinders have a very slight ridge, all the pistons came out though without a ridge reamer. 

Edited by MontegoMan351 - 11-July-2006 at 4:04PM